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Post by eddypeck on Nov 28, 2022 15:57:41 GMT 1
I'm sure any professional kit will show this stuff up to be the cheap crap it is, but when we're talking home, DIY, working on the car on the driveway at weekend kind of kit this cheap crap is sometimes all we need. So I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with any of these type of kits and would recommend which to go for. They're all roughly the same price on eBay and all under £20. In the past I've always done the manual pump the pedal job. The last few times I've had to do brake work I've even had to do the manual pump the pedal method on my own, requiring a length of wood just long enough to wedge between the drivers seat and the brake pedal  Not fun, but successful if patient. I have a compressor so that's it's not an issue going for an air fed solution. A bonus would be a kit that will work on motorbikes as well as cars. Thanks in advance.     |
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Post by Joepublic on Nov 28, 2022 19:27:51 GMT 1
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remmington
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Post by remmington on Nov 28, 2022 22:19:24 GMT 1
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Post by valhalla on Nov 28, 2022 23:30:28 GMT 1
I would also recommend one of these - I use one all the time. The big advantage is, you have good control over the pressure you pump into the reservoir. If you cannot get a good seal, that's important, but even more important is that if your reservoir is a bit "old", you can choose to use a minimum pressure of 3psi, for example, to just coax the old fluid out at the calipers. The only issue I have had from my Sealey is the filler cap next to the pump; if you screw it down too tight, it leaks - the gasket gets distorted. I have learned to use a bit of silicon grease on the seals, and just nip the cap down onto its seal each time - no issues after that.
Air-fed pressure-bleeders are all very good, but they can be a bit hit-and-miss, and the pressure still has to come from somewhere.
As Remmington says, avoid vac-bleeders, they just result in frustration. You never know when the air is out of the brake system, and you are limited to 1BAR (14.7psi) pressure with these, if you find that you need to shift some awkward airlock.
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remmington
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Post by remmington on Nov 28, 2022 23:38:55 GMT 1
I would also recommend one of these - I use one all the time. The big advantage is, you have good control over the pressure you pump into the reservoir. If you cannot get a good seal, that's important, but even more important is that if your reservoir is a bit "old", you can choose to use a minimum pressure of 3psi, for example, to just coax the old fluid out at the calipers. The only issue I have had from my Sealey is the filler cap next to the pump; if you screw it down too tight, it leaks - the gasket gets distorted. I have learned to use a bit of silicon grease on the seals, and just nip the cap down onto its seal each time - no issues after that.
Air-fed pressure-bleeders are all very good, but they can be a bit hit-and-miss, and the pressure still has to come from somewhere.
As Remmington says, avoid vac-bleeders, they just result in frustration. You never know when the air is out of the brake system, and you are limited to 1BAR (14.7psi) pressure with these, if you find that you need to shift some awkward airlock.
I dumped my big airfed diaphragm brake bleeder a long while ago - in favour for these little hand pumped ones - mine is Sealey too - plus I bought the box of adapters for it as well. But I have used the £32 one off eBay - mate has one and it works well. Lot of kit for £31.99 |
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Post by voicey on Nov 29, 2022 12:41:03 GMT 1
I do a lot of brake bleeding - you cannot beat a pressure bleeder IMO. I started with the Sealey but when it broke I started making my own from garden sprayers. I've even made a custom fitting for the most common brake fluid reservoir we see.
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Post by sorted on Nov 29, 2022 13:54:42 GMT 1
I still use my years old Gunson Eazibleed, using an adapter to connect to my compressor via my spraying regulator instead of a spare tyre, still works well.
Except on the MGB GT where after replacing every single brake component as part of the rebuild I still can’t get a hard pedal although it pumps up hard. All adjusted up. According to some forums it’s impossible to bleed the remote servo on these without the engine running so I will wait until I get to that point before trying again.
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Post by rhyds on Nov 29, 2022 14:13:40 GMT 1
I still use my years old Gunson Eazibleed, using an adapter to connect to my compressor via my spraying regulator instead of a spare tyre, still works well. Except on the MGB GT where after replacing every single brake component as part of the rebuild I still can’t get a hard pedal although it pumps up hard. All adjusted up. According to some forums it’s impossible to bleed the remote servo on these without the engine running so I will wait until I get to that point before trying again. Worth trying to stick a vacuum source/pump on the servo and trying again? |
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Post by sorted on Nov 29, 2022 14:26:11 GMT 1
I still use my years old Gunson Eazibleed, using an adapter to connect to my compressor via my spraying regulator instead of a spare tyre, still works well. Except on the MGB GT where after replacing every single brake component as part of the rebuild I still can’t get a hard pedal although it pumps up hard. All adjusted up. According to some forums it’s impossible to bleed the remote servo on these without the engine running so I will wait until I get to that point before trying again. Worth trying to stick a vacuum source/pump on the servo and trying again? Well it would be- but I don’t have one! Engine is in and building it up now so may be running soon. Or it may not run in which case brake bleeding will be the least of my worries 😳 |
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Post by rhyds on Nov 29, 2022 14:29:09 GMT 1
I was thinking more along the lines of a mityvac or something, but as you say its not something to worry about now!
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remmington
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Post by remmington on Nov 29, 2022 17:37:06 GMT 1
I was thinking more along the lines of a mityvac or something, but as you say its not something to worry about now! Only time I use a "mityvac" for brake or clutch bleeding - is for reverse bleeding - pushing fluid from "nipple to reservoir" |
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Post by sorted on Nov 29, 2022 23:04:00 GMT 1
I was thinking more along the lines of a mityvac or something, but as you say its not something to worry about now! Yeah sorry I wasn’t very clear- I meant I don’t have an alternative vacuum source to hand hence may as well wait for the engine to supply it! |
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Post by rhyds on Nov 29, 2022 23:30:56 GMT 1
I was thinking more along the lines of a mityvac or something, but as you say its not something to worry about now! Only time I use a "mityvac" for brake or clutch bleeding - is for reverse bleeding - pushing fluid from "nipple to reservoir"I remember French Car Fanatic sharing a tip where if you got stuck with a Vivaro/Master clutch that wouldn't bleed up you could take a length of screenwash tube off and use a front calliper bleed screw to reverse bleed the clutch slave! |
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Post by rhyds on Nov 29, 2022 23:32:02 GMT 1
I was thinking more along the lines of a mityvac or something, but as you say its not something to worry about now! Yeah sorry I wasn’t very clear- I meant I don’t have an alternative vacuum source to hand hence may as well wait for the engine to supply it! My idea was to put the Mityvac on the servo not the brakes to act like an engine vacuum feed so you'd get a couple of presses of vacuum assisted brake function |
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remmington
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Posts: 4,971
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Post by remmington on Nov 30, 2022 6:48:32 GMT 1
Only time I use a "mityvac" for brake or clutch bleeding - is for reverse bleeding - pushing fluid from "nipple to reservoir"I remember French Car Fanatic sharing a tip where if you got stuck with a Vivaro/Master clutch that wouldn't bleed up you could take a length of screenwash tube off and use a front calliper bleed screw to reverse bleed the clutch slave! That would do it! |
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Not fun, but successful if patient.
