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Post by Rhubarb on Sept 25, 2015 22:35:25 GMT 1
I refitted an oil cooler today, and the gasket leaked after I reused it, tin one with no damage too..New one ordered, job for Monday, then get the heap MOT'd.
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Post by rhyds on Sept 26, 2015 11:41:11 GMT 1
Well, three hours of back breaking* toil (with Chippie's sage advice ringing in my ears!) later, the whole ensemble has been stripped down, inspected, re-sealed and re-assembled. Bled up fine again. Ran fine again. But this time didn't widdle under full temp testing!
Points to note:
1: When you drop the lower mounting bolt for the thermostat behind the A/C compressor, check that it hasn't fallen through to the floor *before* you start trying to unbolt the compressor. It will save you time and swear words.
2: When you fit the thermostat housing to rad bottom hose, notice that while it does physically fit two ways, it only properly fits one way. This might actually explain why the darned thing leaked (but by the time you've stripped out the alternator and drained the coolant to swap the hose around, you might as well spend another 5 mins and swap the suspect seal)
*Not really back breaking.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2015 12:09:54 GMT 1
Well done, I feel your pain! It's really annoying when something that appears simple/straightforward turns out to be a ball ache, especially if someone's been there before you and caused some of the problem.
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Post by rhyds on Sept 26, 2015 13:10:48 GMT 1
It was my fault for assuming work had been done, rather than checking with the garage properly. Also, I assumed that recently fitted parts would be good to go, rather than deciding to change the whole lot for OE before starting.
It seems a problem with Fords, that due to demand you can have some really crap pattern parts. I don't remember suffering the same issue with Rovers over the years.
I think any part where there's more than 30 mins labour in fitting will be OE from now on, and all seals/gaskets changed with OE.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2015 14:12:35 GMT 1
It was my fault for assuming work had been done, rather than checking with the garage properly. Also, I assumed that recently fitted parts would be good to go, rather than deciding to change the whole lot for OE before starting. It seems a problem with Fords, that due to demand you can have some really crap pattern parts. I don't remember suffering the same issue with Rovers over the years. I think any part where there's more than 30 mins labour in fitting will be OE from now on, and all seals/gaskets changed with OE. I always try and fit genuine GM parts or at least parts that I'm 99% would have been made by the the original suppliers.
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Post by rhyds on Sept 26, 2015 18:49:21 GMT 1
It was my fault for assuming work had been done, rather than checking with the garage properly. Also, I assumed that recently fitted parts would be good to go, rather than deciding to change the whole lot for OE before starting. It seems a problem with Fords, that due to demand you can have some really crap pattern parts. I don't remember suffering the same issue with Rovers over the years. I think any part where there's more than 30 mins labour in fitting will be OE from now on, and all seals/gaskets changed with OE. I always try and fit genuine GM parts or at least parts that I'm 99% would have been made by the the original suppliers. I think I'll have to go for the same policy. For stuff where you can buy a decent/known brand (plugs, filters, brake pads) then I won't go OE, but for stuff like a thermostat housing or an engine sensor, it'll be OE from now on.
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oli
Apprentice
Posts: 1,065
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Post by oli on Sept 27, 2015 19:16:14 GMT 1
The OE or pattern part thing is difficult. I'm getting to the point with one of my discos where several parts have been replaced more than once. Most of the original parts - starter, alternator, radiator - lasted 160,000 miles and 15 years then the replacements have needed replacing after just 20 or 30,00 miles - just 10,000 in the case of the radiator.
Oli
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Post by rhyds on Sept 27, 2015 20:08:02 GMT 1
I think it's all down to how much bother it is to have to change it, and how long you're keeping the car.
After looking up how difficult it is to change the speed sensor on the Focus, I paid double for an OE sensor over a pattern. Why? Considering it took two of us two hours to change the thing, I don't want to do it again!
The other problem is that with OE, you know what quality of part you're getting (top notch part for top money). "Pattern" can be anything from a Bosch/LUK/Valeo/Denso part, which is basically the same as what's gone in to the OE box to start with, to the fun and games of manufacturers like Eurofo or the no-name Ebay white boxers.
For some parts, OE doesn't really make sense. For example my Focus needed a coil pack and leads. OE was about £75 for the coil pack on its own, whereas a "BBT" coil pack (an extra tenner over GSF's standard part) and a set of pattern silicone HT leads were £45 all in.
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Post by Karl on Sept 27, 2015 21:34:08 GMT 1
An genuine ignition coil is around £130
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Post by Karl on Sept 27, 2015 21:38:47 GMT 1
Remember to there are lots of counterfeit parts around both genuine and aftermarket
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Post by rhyds on Oct 8, 2015 13:19:34 GMT 1
Just another quick question before I start diving in to the specialist forums and start looking for parts books...
I've bought a new bottom hose (rad to stat housing outlet) for the focus to sort the slight weep I'm getting from the current one. Now, as I mentioned earlier in the post, the pipe in question will "fit" both ways, however there's no obvious sign which way is "right".
The only difference between the two ends is that one end flares out and has a notch in the pipe end, while the other is simply a plain end. Am I right in thinking the flare and notch end is probably for the rad end? I didn't notice any pips or similar on the thermostat housing.
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Post by Karl on Oct 8, 2015 18:54:43 GMT 1
Yep the notch will most probably go on radiator end , you'll see when you fit it
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Post by rhyds on Oct 8, 2015 20:28:37 GMT 1
Thanks chief.
The other fun job while its all in bits is to swap the lovely*, easily accessible** PCV valve pipework behind the manifold.
*Not lovely
**About as easily accessible as a truthful answer from a politician
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Post by Karl on Oct 8, 2015 21:42:01 GMT 1
Yes from what I remember there's plenty of room , no dismantling required
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Post by rhyds on Oct 8, 2015 23:12:31 GMT 1
Plan is to take the alternator out (as I'll be doing the bottom hose anyway) and the idle control valve, giving decent access both ends for my big fat fingers.
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