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Post by rhyds on Sept 22, 2015 9:56:57 GMT 1
Well, it seems I've found the one weakness of my Focus 1.6, that is it seems to be eating thermostat housings like howitzer shells at the battle of the bulge. One failed soon after buying the car, and the (garage fitted) replacement for that one started leaking two months later. Now the replacement for the replacement has also started leaking after about another two months.
Now, I've ordered up a Ford OE thermostat housing (Amazon supply ford OE parts amazingly) and, as it only seems to be leaking when thrashed a bit, a new pressure cap for the expansion tank (in case the old one has jammed and is over pressurising slightly). I'm also thinking that the number of very short journeys I'm making (sub 2 miles usually) is causing issues, due to the cooling system not warming up fully.
So, with regards to fitting, I've got a couple of questions:
1: What's the best way to drain the coolant on this car? There's apparently a radiator drain plug, but I've not been able to confirm it. Is it better to pull the Radiator bottom hose or simply unbolt the stat housing and let it drain that way (with a can underneath obviously)
2: Am I best off removing the alternator to get full access to the housing, or is it possible to do the job with it in place? Considering the number of failures I'm tempted to take the alternator off and check the head surface with an edge of some kind.
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Post by mayfly on Sept 22, 2015 13:39:54 GMT 1
We have replaced loads of these but always use genuine part from ford, never had any recurring problems. And yes remove alternator it makes it very straight forward to do.
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Post by Karl on Sept 22, 2015 21:44:31 GMT 1
Newer models have an radiator drain plug , lower right hand corner of radiator
But I wouldn't undo on yours it's bound to be stuck and forcing it could give you a bigger headache. Lower rad hose is easy enough to get to.
So it's the third thermostat housing in as many months
Getting the part from Amazon !
Has the 0 ring seal been replaced also ? ( one around the thermostat )
Be careful with the thread holes now , may start to pull out.
Also might think about getting new bolts if there corroded
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Post by Joepublic on Sept 22, 2015 22:25:04 GMT 1
Would it be worth running a tap down the threads in the block and making sure the bolts aren't tight before the actual clamping of the seal takes place? Presuming the stat housing bolts to the block and the bolts aren't too long?
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Post by rhyds on Sept 22, 2015 22:29:25 GMT 1
I assume the O-ring has been changed each time, and it's the 3rd thermostat housing since April. The thermostat was changed in april too, and the new housing comes with a new O-ring. Here's the link for the part (there was one in stock when I ordered) www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0096L2S72/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLEI'll take the alternator off and try and spy where it is actually leaking from on the housing. It doesn't seem to be coming from the lower right (looking towards the back of the car) like last time, it's leaking down past the A/C compressor, so it might be a thermostat seal or similar. |
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Post by Rhubarb on Sept 22, 2015 22:31:39 GMT 1
Not done a 1.6 one, but done plenty of 1.8 and KA ones... Fitted lots of cheap ones from factors and ebay, never had a problem.. You must clean the face of the head with some emery paper, and I slap grease on the new seal before fitting.. Clean the bolt holes with brake cleaner and a smear of copper grease on the bolts  New ones, even cheap ones come with everything including the seal. |
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Post by rhyds on Sept 22, 2015 22:36:23 GMT 1
Not done a 1.6 one, but done plenty of 1.8 and KA ones... Fitted lots of cheap ones from factors and ebay, never had a problem.. You must clean the face of the head with some emery paper, and I slap grease on the new seal before fitting.. Clean the bolt holes with brake cleaner and a smear of copper grease on the bolts New ones, even cheap ones come with everything including the seal. What kind of grease do you use on the seal? |
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Post by Rhubarb on Sept 22, 2015 22:41:24 GMT 1
Not done a 1.6 one, but done plenty of 1.8 and KA ones... Fitted lots of cheap ones from factors and ebay, never had a problem.. You must clean the face of the head with some emery paper, and I slap grease on the new seal before fitting.. Clean the bolt holes with brake cleaner and a smear of copper grease on the bolts New ones, even cheap ones come with everything including the seal. What kind of grease do you use on the seal? Sorry, just normal grease..Not copper grease |
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Post by Rhubarb on Sept 22, 2015 22:50:55 GMT 1
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2015 0:38:12 GMT 1
Doesnt sound right ? was it rad weld first ,then new housing ,now maybe water pump leak ?? i would be very suspicious !!
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Post by rhyds on Sept 23, 2015 8:08:00 GMT 1
No radweld involved. The water pump was changed with the original thermostat housing in April (did the cambelt/WP/Thermostat and housing). I'm thinking it's something to do with lots of short journeys.
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remmington
Apprentice
Owns Spark Eroder
Posts: 4,957
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Post by remmington on Sept 23, 2015 19:03:18 GMT 1
Fit genuine part only.
I have fitted loads of pattern items and had to re-do the job again!
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Post by rhyds on Sept 23, 2015 22:17:37 GMT 1
Fit genuine part only. I have fitted loads of pattern items and had to re-do the job again! I think this might be it. The garage, after the first replacement housing failed, tried to strip it down and put it back together. It held for about a day before leaking again. Both the first and second replacements were motor factor parts (LVW/Rollings in Wrexham). Hopefully the OE part will do the trick. |
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Post by rhyds on Sept 24, 2015 15:41:16 GMT 1
Well the parts (housing and new pressure cap) arrived yesterday (collected from the sorting office today). Both genuine Ford in genuine Ford boxes. I fitted the new cap and while it did help a bit, there was still some seepage of coolant when everything was warm so I'll swap the housing tomorrow.
Just a quick question: The new housing comes with a gasket for the smaller (I assume heater) connection, while it relies on the stat's own big O-ring to seal the larger connection. I don't have a spare thermostat O-ring. Am I better off simply reusing the current O-ring as is (the thermostat shouldn't need renewing), flipping it over so the O-Ring face that was on the block is now on the housing side or rotating the O-ring around so what was sealing at the top is now sealing at the bottom?
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Post by chippie on Sept 24, 2015 16:38:54 GMT 1
I think if you are going to all the trouble of a strip down to replace with new parts then a new O ring is a must...... Unless you like stripping things down......  |
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