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Post by valhalla on May 22, 2019 20:20:43 GMT 1
I have since done a compression test by cranking not running I'm getting 390psi across all 4 cylinders is this right for my 2012 transit 2.2 euro 5 engine code cr As Remmington says, your compressions are good. You need to look elsewhere.....
If you have a scantool (as I believe you have in your photo) then you are armed with an excellent tool to investigate what I believe your problem is. Your base engine appears healthy, but you have an airpath fault (turbo, EGR valve, intake throttle, etc. etc.)
I would need to see an exact engine code to be sure, but my suspicion is that you have an out-of-control EGR or intake throttle PCM control circuit. Ford have made an absolute pig's ear of all of their calibrations in the past, but these 2012MY Transits really take the biscuit.
You need to measure the following two channels, preferably with the scantool showing the data as a scope. You may need to measure each channel individually, to get the data-rate up enough to find-out what is going on here. The two things of interest are; a) EGR COMMANDED POSITION b) EGR ACTUAL POSITION
Your scantool may show the names ever so slightly differently, but they are standardised as-such by Ford when the PCM publishes them. What you are looking-for is the EGR valve to be slapping between 20% and 85% (or approximately those limits) on either of the two channels above, and you need to be able to hear the "problem noise" at the same time. Idle speed will usually do this justice.
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Post by bowtay on May 22, 2019 20:26:08 GMT 1
Hi thank you very informative I have blanked the egr off to alliminate the egr I also changed the intake do you think it could be a problem with the injector learns all been empty here's the pic of my vin
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Post by bowtay on May 22, 2019 20:29:29 GMT 1
I have ford ids
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Post by remmington on May 22, 2019 20:30:53 GMT 1
A bourdon gauge is a very good design, however used as a compression gauge will never tell or show the truth about the state of compression of any internal combustion engine, ever. Any person who suspects that a engine cylinder or cylinders have problems relating to compression issues and relies on a gauge to prove factual information are on a hiding to nothing. It has been proven time and time again by industry experts that the compression gauge cannot and will not prove correct cylinders compression fact. You will never prove whether the engine health is or should be using a gauge fact. Sorry if my information is upsetting you, but research from various methods of testing and research from other leading industry professionals opened my eyes to how poor the results of cylinder compression testing actually is when using a gauge to measure it. The above is true... I often prefer to use a scope and measure the cranking amps - and look at the peaks of four on a four cylinder engine. Leak down testing - has its merits - if you can get the valve gear out of the way. But the chap - asked a sensible question - he described the test equipment he was using and the method - he asked for an expected gauge reading. You gave him a a long written reply with a figure of 46 plus BAR.We all know (with maybe the exception of yourself). He was never gonna get a reading of 46+ BAR even a brand new engine out of the box - the starter motor would have failed first. Gaurdian you misled a nice chap who asked a sensible question.
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Post by bowtay on May 22, 2019 20:32:40 GMT 1
So my engine code is drra
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Post by bowtay on May 22, 2019 20:35:22 GMT 1
My engine code is drra
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Post by Deleted on May 22, 2019 20:44:10 GMT 1
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Post by bowtay on May 22, 2019 20:48:09 GMT 1
Lol Anyways I know from you guys that the compressions I have given you are fine so it's suminkelse
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Post by Deleted on May 22, 2019 20:53:59 GMT 1
I can only advise you on the information I have. I'm not using other engines and or average readings taken from other engines that I think might fit your engine. While there is a minimum compression pressure that a diesel engine will start and run with, I'm sure your engine has met that criteria. What I don't recall you advising is if there is any variation between cylinders regarding the compression you have recorded. All you have said is you have 380 psi, is that the same on all four cylinders! Even if the answer is yes, using a gauge does not ensure that the cylinders compression's are good, you could still have a fault. I'd follow the guidance of valhalla and use your scan tool, or if you have one Ford VCM-11. Looking at your code above, according to the data I have the compression ratio is 15.5:1. Whether that compression ratio has been misprinted or not I've no idea, but is the only factual information that I can pass on, it is from the manufacturer.
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Post by Deleted on May 22, 2019 20:59:29 GMT 1
A bourdon gauge is a very good design, however used as a compression gauge will never tell or show the truth about the state of compression of any internal combustion engine, ever. Any person who suspects that a engine cylinder or cylinders have problems relating to compression issues and relies on a gauge to prove factual information are on a hiding to nothing. It has been proven time and time again by industry experts that the compression gauge cannot and will not prove correct cylinders compression fact. You will never prove whether the engine health is or should be using a gauge fact. Sorry if my information is upsetting you, but research from various methods of testing and research from other leading industry professionals opened my eyes to how poor the results of cylinder compression testing actually is when using a gauge to measure it. The above is true... I often prefer to use a scope and measure the cranking amps - and look at the peaks of four on a four cylinder engine. Leak down testing - has its merits - if you can get the valve gear out of the way. But the chap - asked a sensible question - he described the test equipment he was using and the method - he asked for an expected gauge reading. You told gave him a a long written reply with a figure of 40 plus BAR.We all know (with maybe the exception of yourself). He was never gonna get a reading of 40+ BAR on a brand new engine. Gaurdian you misled a nice chap who asked a sensible question. There might be something about the formula used that you don't understand.
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Post by bowtay on May 22, 2019 21:01:05 GMT 1
Hi thanks yes there all the same first crak 170 psi and then crank to highest reading I get 380 on all 4 cylinders
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Post by remmington on May 22, 2019 21:03:19 GMT 1
The above is true... I often prefer to use a scope and measure the cranking amps - and look at the peaks of four on a four cylinder engine. Leak down testing - has its merits - if you can get the valve gear out of the way. But the chap - asked a sensible question - he described the test equipment he was using and the method - he asked for an expected gauge reading. You told gave him a a long written reply with a figure of 40 plus BAR.We all know (with maybe the exception of yourself). He was never gonna get a reading of 40+ BAR on a brand new engine. Gaurdian you misled a nice chap who asked a sensible question. There might be something about the formula used that you don't understand. I doubt it... SADLY... We have been here before on another subject I recall.
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Post by Deleted on May 22, 2019 21:06:45 GMT 1
Which was...?
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Post by Deleted on May 22, 2019 21:11:56 GMT 1
Hi thanks yes there all the same first crak 170 psi and then crank to highest reading I get 380 on all 4 cylinders So your OK with the compression's then. You need to move on to other areas of testing. Just as a rough guide for future. When the manufacturer only quotes compression ratio data simply take that ratio as in your engine at 15.5:1 and multiply it out as 15.5 x 14.7 = 228 psi.
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Post by remmington on May 22, 2019 21:19:31 GMT 1
Hi thanks yes there all the same first crak 170 psi and then crank to highest reading I get 380 on all 4 cylinders So your OK with the compression's then. You need to move on to other areas of testing. Just as a rough guide for future. When the manufacturer only quotes compression ratio data simply take that ratio as in your engine at 15.5:1 and multiply it out as 15.5 x 14.7 = 228 psi. Please read quote from a previous post on this thread by me: "17.5 : 1 ratio quoted To me should be 350psi or 24 bar on a new engine! (multiply ratio by 20 for new) Or 306psi or 21 bar on a old tired engine (multiply ratio by 15 for an old tired end of life engine that runs). Cam timing effects compression readings! Read more: carmechanics.proboards.com/thread/3450/mk7-transit-2-low-compression?page=2#ixzz5ogHNaoj4" Read more: carmechanics.proboards.com/thread/3450/mk7-transit-2-low-compression?page=3#ixzz5ogcoyjmPMultiplying by 20 gives you the (ish) lowing effect of valve timing (porting). Adding an aprrox margin for pressure wastage of valve overlap. Multiplying by 15 gives you the minimum pressures required to ignite diesel fuel. The 20x 5x factor is only an ish indication - basically the best you can do with a handheld dial pressure gauge and cranking the engine. It is not an exact science and nor will it ever be. Please note: 15.5:1 will give lower pressures than 17.5:1
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