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Post by voicey on Mar 19, 2024 9:40:09 GMT 1
I'm getting sick of my lads breaking my taps so I'm going to buy each of them a cheap Chinese set and a really nice set for me to put in my "off limits" tool box. Any recommendations? Metric only, don't mind paying up!
Cheers...
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Post by chippie on Mar 19, 2024 13:21:11 GMT 1
For the cheap sets, I’ve had a set from Machinemart in metric flavour, one of their drawbacks is the 12mm size. It is on the limit for its diameter as I’ve broken mine when threading bar…really needs to have a bigger body diameter. As for a better set, any of the big brands in hss should be ok…Dormer…I have a selection of theirs that will last me… Presto is another good name too…. RDG tools ( www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/METRIC_TAPS_AND_DIES.html) are a good supplier..as are Chronos and Arceurotrade… I dare say you could probably get sets from the likes of Buck and Hickman or Cromwell…other suppliers too. |
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Post by givusaclue on Mar 19, 2024 18:31:51 GMT 1
get hss set with split dies rather than hex ones
sealey do some cheapish sets
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Post by valhalla on Mar 19, 2024 21:46:42 GMT 1
I agree with chippie about Dormer - they will last a lifetime if you keep them to yourself. I buy Dormer whenever I find that my cheap sets (multiple) are no longer any good for something, just individually a size at a time, but in 1st/2nd/3rd or plug in the taps as a complete set if I need taps.
I find the cheap sets are fine for 90% of the workshop activities, such as cleaning-out threads, reforming damage, or just making bigger & better threads in alloys. It's the fabrication work that needs the decent taps, where I might be making completely new threads in steel.
I have usually been able to buy the 3x taps + a specialised drill-size, altogether in a plastic box (so you can store it all oiled-up to oblivion - important on the West Coast  ) from Dormer each time, and that makes the best sense from the perspective of getting the lifetime out of the first-tap; a correct-sized hole to start off with...... |
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Post by studabear on Mar 19, 2024 23:10:01 GMT 1
I've got a bluepoint/snap-on metric set upto M12 with hex dies and that's been great, think I've broken 1x M8x1.25 tap in about 17 years.
I've got a large cheaper set from ebay that goes upto M24 from memory, and that's been good as gold, although to tell the truth I've only used a few sizes from this set. Mainly to salvage cv joint threads and many oxygen sensor threads and the threads in actual exhausts.
But even that huge set hasn't covered every size I've needed and sgi ll had to buy extras, mainly m12x1.25 and m14x1.25
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Post by studabear on Mar 20, 2024 22:18:43 GMT 1
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Post by liam99 on Mar 21, 2024 0:32:58 GMT 1
I've got a Sudorf set, It's been good
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remmington
Apprentice
Owns Spark Eroder
Posts: 4,966
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Post by remmington on Mar 21, 2024 20:30:40 GMT 1
I got one big German ISO metric tap set.
Plus a whole toolbox drawer of Metric fine - odd sizes - M7 M9 ETC...
(Plus a few BSP taps and dies).
Working on cars - means you gotta be prepared to buy some odd sizes - for glowplugs/seatbelt mountings/brake fittings/O2 sensors/NOX sensors/wheel bolts and studs.
One thing I am not mean about - is buying odd sized tap sets with three taps in them 1st 2nd plug. Dies and thread chasers.
When you need these - you need them.
A standard ISO set is just the start of it... Your collection will grow...
Also a thread file is usefull "get out of jail" card tool.
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Post by studabear on Mar 21, 2024 22:01:18 GMT 1
Internal thread file is a major life saver. Especially when replacing Peugeot/citroen bottom ball joints. 😉
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remmington
Apprentice
Owns Spark Eroder
Posts: 4,966
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Post by remmington on Mar 22, 2024 1:15:09 GMT 1
Internal thread file is a major life saver. Especially when replacing Peugeot/citroen bottom ball joints. 😉 Never seen an "internal thread file" - learn something new every day...  I got/use a few snapped taps of differing threaded pitches with the square end ground to a "tang" for the want of better description fitted into old small wooden file handles - for this type of "life saving incident". You can use a virgin unbroken tap for the job with a square 3/8" tap socket and a 100mm drive extension - but choose a M14 M16 M18 tap - as you can break a tap using them as a file/scraper/chaser. It is only the thread pitch you are after for this type of job. ------
Not sure I can really explain the following very well - but I have seen a big internal threaded hole thread cleaned up by shaping a bit of wood to a mild taper on one side of the wood to fit the whole diameter - and hammering a tap into the parallel side of the wood - then rotating the hole thing into the big internal thread to clean it up - the taper on the tap and the other side of the "bit of wood" draws in into the leading edges of the damaged thread.
If you can follow that poor description - you are doing well! |
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Post by chippie on Mar 22, 2024 11:32:50 GMT 1
Just be aware that not all tap/die sets are made from high speed steel (hss)….some of the ‘budget’ sets are made from tungsten steel which is not as strong in terms of applied torque when thread cutting….tends to snap like a carrot if your not careful…
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Post by Joepublic on Mar 26, 2024 21:53:06 GMT 1
Just be aware that not all tap/die sets are made from high speed steel (hss)….some of the ‘budget’ sets are made from tungsten steel which is not as strong in terms of applied torque when thread cutting….tends to snap like a carrot if your not careful… car wreckersThank you for the heads-up. It's crucial to be mindful of the materials used in tap and die sets, as the budget ones made from tungsten steel may lack the strength required for higher torque applications during thread cutting. Reported ya spammer................. |
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) from Dormer each time, and that makes the best sense from the perspective of getting the lifetime out of the first-tap; a correct-sized hole to start off with......
