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Lanoguard
Jul 10, 2022 20:07:48 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by studabear on Jul 10, 2022 20:07:48 GMT 1
Have any of you used Lanoguard?
I want to try and preserve my 2007 focus for another 10 years 😂 it's a cracking car, rear suspension just starting to go a little rusty. It needs 2 new front wings and a bit of paint, but with the ridiculous price of cars these days I would sooner spend a bit on this one.
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Post by rhyds on Jul 10, 2022 20:13:28 GMT 1
I'm in the same boat, and have been absolutely spammed with Lanoguard facebook ads over the last few months.
I've not had any hands-on experience with it. Has anyone here?
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Post by OldGit on Jul 10, 2022 20:48:46 GMT 1
Nope, only thing I've ever used is Dinitrol 900 'rust converter' (it's a Landrover thing..... ) or some Merc. wax-type panel sealant donated by the parts dept. as it was out of date.
I've always worked on the basis that if it is good stuff, it doesn't need to be advertised - lots of adverts = box shifters desperate to move stuff on....
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Lanoguard
Jul 10, 2022 22:11:29 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by studabear on Jul 10, 2022 22:11:29 GMT 1
I've got a gallon of clear waxoyl I bought when I first got the Escort some approx 12 years ago, I have a proper waxoyl gun and injector hose. It's just all the messing about warming up waxoyl and the mist that travels about the workshop.
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Post by valhalla on Jul 10, 2022 22:12:18 GMT 1
I've been working with it for a year or so now - lots of time to assess how it is doing in the extreme climate we have here.
Somewhere else, I have posted about this - I will try and find the link - but long story short, it does the trick. Very much like "Fluid Film" that Eric 'O et.al. use in the rust-belt in the USA.
One specific trial I have been running is on what I believe to be the last Rover 25 running on this planet - one of my regular customers has this - and the finish of the car (a Streewize) is utterly diabolical. So it just rusted, all the way from new, until I got the opportunity to fix it..... The Lanoguard treatment was applied with minimal preparation (important in this neck of the woods, as you cannot afford to strip anything to bare metal for more than 5mins at a time) and really just sprayed as a sufficient film to wet the surfaces - rust, underseal, painted-metal, etc. etc. - and then left for 24hours before moving the car, to avoid it washing-off with road-spray and sheep-s**t.
The product has utterly transformed the car - not a single patch of further rust since. What is more, if you are careful, it is great over brake backplates to halt corrosion on those. I'm so taken by the stuff, I'm looking to get a big drum of it up here, as it's the only practical way for me to deal with my own classics.
I used it on a few Landrover back-axles, and I would say that it is better NOT sprayed over grease & oil, but beyond that, it's easy to just take the trigger-bottle and get on with the job. It's the fastest stuff I have ever applied, especially if you ignore the costs.
I might point-out that I'm not affiliated to the people down at Lanoguard, despite trying to get a trade-account or even some free samples from them, so with that in-mind, I would still recommend the stuff. It is also the only source I have found for the old lanolin-based "Castrol Heavy" grease tubs that have been difficult to source for decades now - these people have a grease in tubs that is great for towing eyes and hooks.
I have used pretty much everything out there in the field for the last 40years, and this is the best stuff I have ever had. I reckon that with good preparation with Bilt Hamber Hydrate80, or similar, this stuff would be invincible. You need to check and top it up once a year, but frankly it seems to hang-on very well.
HTH,
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Post by OldGit on Jul 10, 2022 22:14:47 GMT 1
I've got a gallon of clear waxoyl I bought when I first got the Escort some approx 12 years ago, I have a proper waxoyl gun and injector hose. It's just all the messing about warming up waxoyl and the mist that travels about the workshop. Waxoyl is living on it's past glories, theres better and cheaper stuff around, I've seen it dry out and peel off in sheets - to reveal the rust festering underneath it.
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Post by studabear on Jul 10, 2022 22:16:00 GMT 1
Perfect sir. Can't get a better recommendation than that.
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Post by OldGit on Jul 10, 2022 22:19:29 GMT 1
I've been working with it for a year or so now - lots of time to assess how it is doing in the extreme climate we have here.
Somewhere else, I have posted about this - I will try and find the link - but long story short, it does the trick. Very much like "Fluid Film" that Eric 'O et.al. use in the rust-belt in the USA.
One specific trial I have been running is on what I believe to be the last Rover 25 running on this planet - one of my regular customers has this - and the finish of the car (a Streewize) is utterly diabolical. So it just rusted, all the way from new, until I got the opportunity to fix it..... The Lanoguard treatment was applied with minimal preparation (important in this neck of the woods, as you cannot afford to strip anything to bare metal for more than 5mins at a time) and really just sprayed as a sufficient film to wet the surfaces - rust, underseal, painted-metal, etc. etc. - and then left for 24hours before moving the car, to avoid it washing-off with road-spray and sheep-s**t.
The product has utterly transformed the car - not a single patch of further rust since. What is more, if you are careful, it is great over brake backplates to halt corrosion on those. I'm so taken by the stuff, I'm looking to get a big drum of it up here, as it's the only practical way for me to deal with my own classics.
I used it on a few Landrover back-axles, and I would say that it is better NOT sprayed over grease & oil, but beyond that, it's easy to just take the trigger-bottle and get on with the job. It's the fastest stuff I have ever applied, especially if you ignore the costs.
I might point-out that I'm not affiliated to the people down at Lanoguard, despite trying to get a trade-account or even some free samples from them, so with that in-mind, I would still recommend the stuff. It is also the only source I have found for the old lanolin-based "Castrol Heavy" grease tubs that have been difficult to source for decades now - these people have a grease in tubs that is great for towing eyes and hooks.
I have used pretty much everything out there in the field for the last 40years, and this is the best stuff I have ever had. I reckon that with good preparation with Bilt Hamber Hydrate80, or similar, this stuff would be invincible. You need to check and top it up once a year, but frankly it seems to hang-on very well.
HTH,
The irony is, with Lanolin being harvested from Sheep wool, you're probably closer to the source material than most!
I do remember 'Castrol Heavy', used to apply it in handfuls to various bits of plant, until the real fitter turned up, anyway.
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Post by rhyds on Jul 10, 2022 22:54:44 GMT 1
Perfect sir. Can't get a better recommendation than that. valhalla: Our engineering man on the job! He walks the walk so we can talk the talk!
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Post by givusaclue on Jul 11, 2022 13:04:48 GMT 1
i've been looking at this stuff, is it a full 5l. to do say a mondeo sized car sufficiently?
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Post by liam99 on Jul 11, 2022 20:49:05 GMT 1
I've got a customer who used it recenty so can't comment on long term but it looked well at the time
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Post by valhalla on Jul 12, 2022 0:01:03 GMT 1
i've been looking at this stuff, is it a full 5l. to do say a mondeo sized car sufficiently? I would say it would cover the car pretty easily. You use around 1litre at a time in the trigger-bottle, and that is enough to cover all the floorpans of an average sized car, including up inside the wheelarches and suspension turrets. The trick with the internal box-section spraying is to adjust the spray-pattern of the remote probe (it just screws in place of the trigger-gun nozzle) where you can see it, and make sure that you have some clean dishes under the drain-holes for the sections, so you can catch and reuse the outfall. This is much the same as if you were using the Bilt Hamber wax, which also tends to be a bit runny.
You only need a film with the Lanoguard oil, as anything more is gilding the lily, and just runs off uselessly. Better to go back after a few days and top-up the bits that look like they could use a bit more oil. This tends to be the rusty brake backplates and suspension arms, which seem to soak the oil up as part of the protection process. Once the stuff has dried-off and done its job, the components look almost black from a distance, so the cosmetic effect is quick and easy to produce on a car that is otherwise becoming a bit rusty underneath.
I think I used around 2.5litres on the Rover Streetwize, and that included spraying inside the sills, up into the front subframes, around the wheelarches, behind the plastic outer sill covers, the back of the engine-bay on the bulkhead, and inside the spare-wheel well under the boot floor.
One advantage I have found, is that with reasonable caution, you can get away with a light dust-mask, even inside an enclosed garage. Most of the trigger-bottle contents goes straight onto the surface, rather than atomizing and disappearing sideways like Waxoyl in a high-pressure air-fed gun.
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Posts: 0
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Lanoguard
Jul 31, 2022 5:36:38 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by Deleted on Jul 31, 2022 5:36:38 GMT 1
Used lanoguard on my 2010 ford focus last year very easy to apply seemed to protect it and beadwater. However it needs reapplying every year.
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Lanoguard
Oct 17, 2022 22:13:19 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by studabear on Oct 17, 2022 22:13:19 GMT 1
Finally ordered the ultimate kit, so hopefully get it all done this weekend.
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Post by valhalla on Oct 17, 2022 23:22:48 GMT 1
Finally ordered the ultimate kit, so hopefully get it all done this weekend. One thing that you might have to experiment with is the remote probe spray-pattern. I am finding that the atomiser on the end of the tubing is a bit crude to actually spray the contents out - it sort of dribbles the Lanoguard in approximately 4 directions instead.
I'm pretty sure that a bit of homemade "nail in end of tubing", like the Waxoyl kits used to have, would improve matters a bit!
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