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Post by rhyds on Oct 30, 2021 14:39:56 GMT 1
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Post by chippie on Oct 30, 2021 16:45:08 GMT 1
I have three Uni-T dvm's that I use for general electronic work and for working on the cars that I have...Have been very good, boiught from Maplins when they were on offer...
Looking oin Amazon, there is this ....https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multimeter-Voltmeter-Resistance-Capatitance-Temperature/dp/B07RZ2SJ23/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=Digital+multimeter&qid=1635608199&refinements=p_89%3AUNI-T&rnid=1632651031&s=diy&sr=1-12
That would do as a starter dvm...cheap enough if you managed to break it,but accurate enough for car work..
I wouldnt trust the non contact voltage testers, especially when working on mains power....I did a course ion Live Working run by the local electric authority yrs ago and we were always taught to use a prover for proving dead before proceeding....Test it on a known live circuit first then proceed....you may not get a second chance...⚡️⚡️
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remmington
Apprentice
Owns Spark Eroder
Posts: 4,974
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Post by remmington on Oct 30, 2021 17:19:59 GMT 1
+1For anything with Uni-T written on it. 
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Post by wightdiag on Oct 30, 2021 18:39:32 GMT 1
+1 +1 Uni-T
I have a UT139C multimeter, it has the important stuff - Min/Max, auto range or fixed range, back light, mV setting and auto power off ! Very happy with it.
I also have the very awesome UT210E which is a DC clamp ammeter that goes down to 2A, bought mine 18 months ago and it's gone up as they are so popular -for me it's a quick way to test if something is working, if you have current then you have just load tested your power, ground, connection, wires, plug, command, even the actuator itself - the whole circuit. Great when combined with a fuse loop.
Bit about it here
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Post by Noberator on Oct 30, 2021 20:24:46 GMT 1
I bought a cheap Halfords multimeter last April. It does what I need it for.  Rolson Digital MultimeterEven cheaper with a Trade Card. |
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Post by Joepublic on Oct 30, 2021 21:04:52 GMT 1
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Post by Noberator on Oct 30, 2021 22:05:17 GMT 1
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Post by chippie on Oct 30, 2021 22:28:28 GMT 1
Damn.... You beat me to it....🐥🐥🐥🐤🐤 |
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Post by valhalla on Oct 31, 2021 22:28:19 GMT 1
Yet another one for the Uni-T.
I would consider the model with the non-contact current clamp, as this can save a lot of heartache when testing for battery-drains. My only complaint about the Uni-T is that the unit is very sensitive to external fluxes around the clamps; in other words, you have to be sure you have zeroed the current on the unit in the exact orientation you are going to measure, just before you open the jaws on the Uni-T and place them around the cable to be measured. The current clamps that are supplied through Pico, et-al. are not so affected by this sort of thing.
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Post by trickydicky on Nov 1, 2021 0:04:22 GMT 1
I have a few different meters.
An ancient Fluke 78 (I love the simplicity speed and quality)
Power Probe 3 (I use this a lot for quick volt drop test and supplying power/ground to prove faults, knowing you have a good ground or supply is a massive time-saver when under vehicles)
Facom multimeter (this works with ac/dc current clamps and is great because you can always see the screen compared to a conventional clamp meter when working alone)
I have got an Oscilloscope as well, but leave that for another discussion.
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Post by rhyds on Nov 1, 2021 10:37:29 GMT 1
Thanks for the advice everyone. The UNI-Ts look like a good shout for a decent meter. I'll probably go for the UT210E with the current clamp as that is different enough from my old Radio Shack unit to justify keeping both, as well as being handy for those battery drain issues.
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Post by trickydicky on Nov 2, 2021 17:20:09 GMT 1
Thanks for the advice everyone. The UNI-Ts look like a good shout for a decent meter. I'll probably go for the UT210E with the current clamp as that is different enough from my old Radio Shack unit to justify keeping both, as well as being handy for those battery drain issues. Not just battery drains, you can measure glow plug draw, fuel pump operation, battery/alternator testing and so much more |
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