|
|
Post by somewhereinthehills on Mar 16, 2021 23:32:17 GMT 1
Hi all, looking for some help if poss?
On the way to work the service vehicle light came on as did the engine light and the car went into limp mode. I got the fault code p242d (exhaust gas temperature sensor) I replaced both but now I have code p2033 (exhaust gas sensor) and the car is still in limp mode and both warning lights are on. I've checked the wiring and all seems fine. On the live data, both sensors are showing as not available?? Where could I look next?
Its a 2015 vauxhall insignia 2leco flex.
Many thanks for any help 👍
|
|
huffo
Tea Maker
Posts: 243
|
Post by huffo on Mar 17, 2021 14:52:21 GMT 1
What brand of parts did you use? Many cars are sensitive to the use of non-genuine sensors for these things.
|
|
|
|
Post by somewhereinthehills on Mar 18, 2021 16:06:38 GMT 1
They're ridex parts, but surely the days of 'genuine parts' are long gone? I really can't see vauxhall having a factory just for sensors, isn't nearly everything lucas or bosch?
|
|
|
|
Post by rhyds on Mar 18, 2021 17:46:55 GMT 1
They're ridex parts, but surely the days of 'genuine parts' are long gone? I really can't see vauxhall having a factory just for sensors, isn't nearly everything lucas or bosch? Unfortunately it doesn't work like that. Engine ECUs are designed and programmed to work with sensors that respond to given inputs with outputs that are within a given range. Problem is, not every sensor manufacturer's parts give the same output for a given input, therefore you're always better off going for original parts when it comes to sensors, or at the very least parts from the same OEM (Bosch etc) where you can confirm 100% that its the same part. The best example is aftermarket MAF sensors. An Aftermarket unit from somewhere like Ridex might match the OE sensor output at idle, and maybe match it at wide open throttle, but unless the sensor's output curve matches the OE sensor at all points in between the ECU will not be very happy. As for your fault, do the original Vauxhall sensors give any live data output when they're reconnected? Are you 100% sure the wiring to the sensors is OK both at the sensor end, the ECU multiplug end and all points inbetween? |
|
|
|
Post by trickydicky on Mar 18, 2021 19:51:55 GMT 1
They're ridex parts, but surely the days of 'genuine parts' are long gone? I really can't see vauxhall having a factory just for sensors, isn't nearly everything lucas or bosch? Opposite, genuine parts are your best friend when it comes to modern auto-electrics I've seen non genuine crap not work out of the box, or even not even be the same type of sensor internally where the OEM has switched to a different type at a certain chassis number and not told the aftermarket Be very careful with ECP supplied sensors!!! |
|
|
|
Post by somewhereinthehills on Mar 19, 2021 12:08:46 GMT 1
Thanks everyone for the very informative info 👍
With the original sensors in, the live data is showing n/a. But I'm thinking that if they have failed, that's what it would say.
|
|
|
|
Post by somewhereinthehills on Mar 19, 2021 12:18:13 GMT 1
Oops! Pressed post too soon! I'll go through with checking all the wiring again anyway, then it's gonna have to be a trip to the main dealer. Which in France (where I live) will be a very emotional event. Unless I can find a genuine part online.
Thanks for all the help 👍 I'm sure I'll be back with something else soon 😁
|
|
|
|
Post by rhyds on Mar 19, 2021 21:49:12 GMT 1
Try www.autovaux.co.uk/ and see if they can deliver to France. They'll have some good OEM stock I'm sure. |
|
|
|
Post by somewhereinthehills on May 6, 2021 21:07:02 GMT 1
Update... I wasn't convinced about the need for genuine parts, after all, if they don't work, why are they even sold??
So after a visit to 3 separate garages, I had the following answers
Sorry mate, I can't work on them.
The sensors are fine, it's something else, but we haven't got the time to look
The sensors are fine, they're a standard item, it's more likely to be something with the ecu
So I had vauxhall take a look and lo and behold, the new sensors I fitted weren't compatible. Two genuine ones fitted, and 2 hours later and nearly 700 qiud lighter and she's as good as new!
The mechanic said that anything which ultimately connects to the ecu has to be a genuine part for nearly all cars from about 2009.
Cheers everyone for your help 👍
|
|
|
|
Post by rhyds on May 6, 2021 21:47:59 GMT 1
Update... I wasn't convinced about the need for genuine parts, after all, if they don't work, why are they even sold?? Because for most folks if the warning light stays off the problem's fixed. Also the ones selling crap car parts don't care if they work, they just care that their paid. Its the reason that the regulations around brake pad sales were tightened a few years back due to the massive number of fakes getting in to the supply chain. The mechanic said that anything which ultimately connects to the ecu has to be a genuine part for nearly all cars from about 2009. Cheers everyone for your help 👍 Which is what we tried to tell you a few posts ago. Non genuine and non OEM sensors are a real gamble. If you're lucky they're compatible but require extra work to fit (such as "wire it yourself" lambda sensors) or you end up with your issue where they simply don't work, and at worst damage your car. |
|
|
|
Post by remmington on May 6, 2021 22:14:07 GMT 1
Update... I wasn't convinced about the need for genuine parts, after all, if they don't work, why are they even sold?? So after a visit to 3 separate garages, I had the following answers Sorry mate, I can't work on them. The sensors are fine, it's something else, but we haven't got the time to look The sensors are fine, they're a standard item, it's more likely to be something with the ecu So I had vauxhall take a look and lo and behold, the new sensors I fitted weren't compatible. Two genuine ones fitted, and 2 hours later and nearly 700 qiud lighter and she's as good as new! The mechanic said that anything which ultimately connects to the ecu has to be a genuine part for nearly all cars from about 2009. Cheers everyone for your help 👍 O2 sensors of Jap cars are the worst offenders - you either stump up mega bucks for the genuine ones from the dealers of just don't bother doing the job. |
|
|
|
Post by Noberator on May 6, 2021 22:30:45 GMT 1
Update... I wasn't convinced about the need for genuine parts, after all, if they don't work, why are they even sold?? Because for most folks if the warning light stays off the problem's fixed. Also the ones selling crap car parts don't care if they work, they just care that their paid. Its the reason that the regulations around brake pad sales were tightened a few years back due to the massive number of fakes getting in to the supply chain. The mechanic said that anything which ultimately connects to the ecu has to be a genuine part for nearly all cars from about 2009. Cheers everyone for your help 👍 Which is what we tried to tell you a few posts ago. Non genuine and non OEM sensors are a real gamble. If you're lucky they're compatible but require extra work to fit (such as "wire it yourself" lambda sensors) or you end up with your issue where they simply don't work, and at worst damage your car.    |
|
