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Post by studabear on Feb 14, 2021 22:54:04 GMT 1
Do any of you lot use them and more importantly are they any good for cutting rubber out of bushes?
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remmington
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Owns Spark Eroder
Posts: 4,972
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Post by remmington on Feb 14, 2021 23:05:49 GMT 1
I got one airsaw.
Cheap Sealey one - which really is only good for cutting thin plastic (I use it for cutting about broken bottom covers and splashes).
I did have a big air Cengar saw - this took hacksaw blades but was very greedy on air. Long dead and now replaced with a Bosch Reciprocating Saw.
Neither are any good for cutting out rubber bushes. I normally just take arms off and set fire to the rubber bushes with a propane torch - let them burn out on the floor (outside) then take the casing out with an air chisel.
Recip' saw is excellent for removing old exhausts and pruning small tree branches - but not alot of use for anything else really.
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oli
Apprentice
Posts: 1,065
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Air saws
Feb 14, 2021 23:12:35 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by oli on Feb 14, 2021 23:12:35 GMT 1
I’ve got a cheap un-branded one. I don’t use it much (less than a more traditional electric jigsaw, mainly due to noise) but occasionally to cut things off like hard to reach studs it can be good. Never used it to cut bushes out. Last big bushes I did, I used a big hole saw to remove most of the rubber and the inner tube then an electric jigsaw to cut into the outer metal part from the inside. I suspect the air one would have worked. Not my favourite job.
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oli
Apprentice
Posts: 1,065
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Air saws
Feb 14, 2021 23:16:17 GMT 1
via mobile
Post by oli on Feb 14, 2021 23:16:17 GMT 1
They do seem to be a bit lacking in grunt compared to a similar electric saws. Just to clarify mine might be capable of cutting through the metal ring of the bush but as Remington said above, I don’t think it would manage the rubber itself, which seems surprisingly tough.
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Post by valhalla on Feb 15, 2021 1:46:02 GMT 1
Likewise I have a Sealey pad-saw, and it's fine if the blade is not dragged-down by sticky material too much. I don't use it much, just where I need to get into corners that the grinder or air cutoff discs cannot reach. Also old bush housings that need slitting through before punching out, although I usually run a Titan hole-saw through the bush first, just slightly smaller diameter than the I/D of the bush housing, and smothered in silicon grease to prevent it from burning the electric drill out.
The ultimate for sheer cutting ability has to be the Milwaukee M18 Fuel "Hackzall", which demolishes anything you show it to, and it has serious staying-power for longer jobs. I bought Mrs. Valhalla one of these (a body-only deal from ITS) last year for her birthday, and she uses it for felling trees!!! She reckons she can bring 20 trees down in a session on one battery charge, slow-grown Alders with about 6-inches diameter.
The secret with these sorts of tools is to get decent blades to go into them; the Milwaukee has Vaunt metal/wood blades dedicated for it.
I use old hacksaw blades in the air reciprocating saw, so it doesn't matter when they smash into something solid beyond the cut, but for maximum effect.....I cut-down new 28tpi blades into convenient lengths and lock those into the jaws of the saw.
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remmington
Apprentice
Owns Spark Eroder
Posts: 4,972
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Post by remmington on Feb 15, 2021 7:49:36 GMT 1
Likewise I have a Sealey pad-saw, and it's fine if the blade is not dragged-down by sticky material too much. I don't use it much, just where I need to get into corners that the grinder or air cutoff discs cannot reach. Also old bush housings that need slitting through before punching out, although I usually run a Titan hole-saw through the bush first, just slightly smaller diameter than the I/D of the bush housing, and smothered in silicon grease to prevent it from burning the electric drill out.
The ultimate for sheer cutting ability has to be the Milwaukee M18 Fuel "Hackzall", which demolishes anything you show it to, and it has serious staying-power for longer jobs. I bought Mrs. Valhalla one of these (a body-only deal from ITS) last year for her birthday, and she uses it for felling trees!!! She reckons she can bring 20 trees down in a session on one battery charge, slow-grown Alders with about 6-inches diameter. The secret with these sorts of tools is to get decent blades to go into them; the Milwaukee has Vaunt metal/wood blades dedicated for it. I use old hacksaw blades in the air reciprocating saw, so it doesn't matter when they smash into something solid beyond the cut, but for maximum effect.....I cut-down new 28tpi blades into convenient lengths and lock those into the jaws of the saw.
"I bought Mrs. Valhalla one of these (a body-only deal from ITS) last year for her birthday"I get it... Don't buy wifey anything with a plug on it for her birthday!
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Post by studabear on Feb 15, 2021 21:32:40 GMT 1
Cheers for the input, don't think I will bother buying one.
Maybe a heavier duty air chisel and some hole saws might be more suitable.
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Post by Joepublic on Feb 15, 2021 21:39:32 GMT 1
Die grinder and suitable burrs? Push through the rubber and eggshell the outer?
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Post by Noberator on Feb 15, 2021 21:44:03 GMT 1
Likewise I have a Sealey pad-saw, and it's fine if the blade is not dragged-down by sticky material too much. I don't use it much, just where I need to get into corners that the grinder or air cutoff discs cannot reach. Also old bush housings that need slitting through before punching out, although I usually run a Titan hole-saw through the bush first, just slightly smaller diameter than the I/D of the bush housing, and smothered in silicon grease to prevent it from burning the electric drill out.
The ultimate for sheer cutting ability has to be the Milwaukee M18 Fuel "Hackzall", which demolishes anything you show it to, and it has serious staying-power for longer jobs. I bought Mrs. Valhalla one of these (a body-only deal from ITS) last year for her birthday, and she uses it for felling trees!!! She reckons she can bring 20 trees down in a session on one battery charge, slow-grown Alders with about 6-inches diameter. The secret with these sorts of tools is to get decent blades to go into them; the Milwaukee has Vaunt metal/wood blades dedicated for it. I use old hacksaw blades in the air reciprocating saw, so it doesn't matter when they smash into something solid beyond the cut, but for maximum effect.....I cut-down new 28tpi blades into convenient lengths and lock those into the jaws of the saw.
"I bought Mrs. Valhalla one of these (a body-only deal from ITS) last year for her birthday"I get it... Don't buy wifey anything with a plug on it for her birthday! I Saw Her Standing There Not a Jigsaw by any chance? I'll get me coat.
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Post by valhalla on Feb 16, 2021 0:51:07 GMT 1
"I bought Mrs. Valhalla one of these (a body-only deal from ITS) last year for her birthday"I get it... Don't buy wifey anything with a plug on it for her birthday! It worked-out quite well, until one of the M18 Fuel lithium batteries went dulally just before Christmas!!!
The thought-process was, "She can borrow one battery at a time, leaving me two in the workshop, and that should limit the amount of destruction she can inflict on our plantation"
Yes, it also meets the criterium for "Not buying her anything with a plug" but I now miss 50% of my battery-packs when she toddles down the hill with evil intent for those poor trees.
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