tmark
New Member
Posts: 5
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Post by tmark on Dec 26, 2020 13:33:03 GMT 1
Hi , I'm thinking about getting a hydraulic ball joint breaker for doing Transits & cars ,has any one had any experience of using one .I have a scissor type & a fork type but struggle to break some joints, the fork type works ok if you are changing the joint as it wrecks the boot.
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Post by trickydicky on Dec 26, 2020 22:02:15 GMT 1
I've always been a fan of shocking the taper joint loose by whacking it on the side with a hammer/air hammer and a big prybar to push lower arms down
Not a great idea on aluminium uprights/hubs though (although I once saw one of Nigel Mansells Williams mechanics do it at Silverstone in the 1990s) !!!
I have a old wedge for the pinch bolt type that works very well
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remmington
Apprentice
Owns Spark Eroder
Posts: 4,972
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Post by remmington on Dec 27, 2020 8:51:16 GMT 1
I've always been a fan of shocking the taper joint loose by whacking it on the side with a hammer/air hammer and a big prybar to push lower arms down
Not a great idea on aluminium uprights/hubs though (although I once saw one of Nigel Mansells Williams mechanics do it at Silverstone in the 1990s) !!! I have a old wedge for the pinch bolt type that works very well This is how I do it - if I want to reuse the joint - If I don't I just use a really long fork thing! |
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Post by valhalla on Dec 30, 2020 1:20:10 GMT 1
Hi , I'm thinking about getting a hydraulic ball joint breaker for doing Transits & cars ,has any one had any experience of using one .I have a scissor type & a fork type but struggle to break some joints, the fork type works ok if you are changing the joint as it wrecks the boot. I adore my hydraulic balljoint breaker kit - it gets used before any of the other tools for this work, as it is so powerful, it's less likely to hurt when everything finally goes bang. The Clarke-type sets are fine, and the hydraulic unit is common to the puller sets, but you also get a mechanical screw for when you need a bit of speed.
The "commercial" sets tend to have fork dimensions 32mm A/F and above, so you can find that these are not so great for cars with restricted access, but I generally find that the 32mm fork is OK on most.
You still need to go carefully with these tools, but I haven't broken mine yet by winding the compression onto the joint, then striking the pusher arm down with a drift and large hammer - much safer and controlled than just winding-on for dear life and waiting for the explosion......
There are definitely some cars (Freelander 2 lower front joints, for example) where you can only go in with a hardened-steel fork and club-hammer, so it pays to have spare universal balljoint gaiters for those examples.
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remmington
Apprentice
Owns Spark Eroder
Posts: 4,972
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Post by remmington on Dec 30, 2020 8:04:58 GMT 1
I have thought about one of these:
Is not the limitation of use - if the ball joint taper goes up into the hub - or down into the hub?
If the taper goes up - you cannot get one of these in to use - can you not?
Thinking about this - most heavy stuff the ball joint taper goes downwards I think?
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