|
|
Post by rhyds on Oct 5, 2020 8:21:25 GMT 1
Have a look at the ethernet switch you're using's power requirements. You may find another, smaller power supply (or one with a trailing lead) will be available. I think I might have some spare 12v supplies around, as they were supplied alongside some equipment that a mate was handling a while back, and were surplus to requirements. The supply here states 1.2A @ 12V, so should not be too bad to source. If push comes to shove, I can always make a mini extension lead to power the unit elsewhere in the cabinet, but it would be great just to get rid of it, as it is well oversized for what it has to do. The switch seems quite well built (Netgear) and has a manual pushbutton to force it to use port_4 as an uplink. I certainly had no problems just plugging it in and using it within a few seconds, although I might have a look to see if there any instructions worth studying online (probably not very enlightening, if they exist)
I've not seen a Netgear with the old MDI/MDIX switch for years (everything just autodetects these days), in fact I think the only device I have with one of those is an ancient 4 port hub (different to a switch as it rebroadcasts all traffic on all ports, switches only send specific traffic to specific ports). I'm guessing if its an older unit it still has the very chunky transformer based power supply. You'll probably find that any old 12V power supply of about 1A or more will run the unit happily enough, when in a pinch I tended to just use a spare router power supply for anything 12v. |
|
|
|
Post by valhalla on Oct 5, 2020 16:40:02 GMT 1
I found one of my spare power supplies, four of them in-fact. 12.2V and 1.65A will do nicely, and indeed the smoke has not emitted from the hub yet.
I'm not sure, now you mention it, whether this is a switch or not. It's a Netgear DS104, and the PDF file infers it is just a hub. My main switch in the workshop that handles everything else that comes in over the main Ethernet cable seems to have sorted everything out just fine, as I'm running this in "normal" mode without telling it that its is connected to a switch, so I believe the wonders of modern switching have sorted all that out, without the complexity of crossing any wires over in the cable from switch to trolley-hub.
|
|
|
|
Post by rhyds on Oct 5, 2020 19:08:58 GMT 1
The main switch will have done its thing to make the hub work. As mentioned the difference between a "hub" and a "switch" is that a switch knows the MAC addresses of all its connected devices, so when a network packet comes in to the switch for PC 1 the switch only sends it to the port attached to PC 1 and not the other ports. With a hub, when a packet comes down the line for PC 1 the hub sends it out on all its ports to PCs 1/2/3/4, who will ignore it as its not for them.
In short the hub will work, but its not as outright fast as a switch. Hubs are also handy when you need to observe traffic on a link at a packet level.
|
|
|
|
Post by valhalla on Oct 15, 2020 22:59:20 GMT 1
Cheapie switch is a good shout, though if its a very inexpensive one I'd suggest making it easy to powercycle the unit as they sometimes need a nudge. You were right, by the way, it does need a nudge every so often....
|
|
|
|
Post by trickydicky on Jan 20, 2021 12:11:18 GMT 1
How are you getting on with this little project??
|
|
|
|
Post by valhalla on Jan 20, 2021 23:45:04 GMT 1
How are you getting on with this little project?? Ah, well, I was just thinking earlier this week, "I must report back on how this fantastic trolley is doing" 
In summary, I'm still looking for the right sort of tubing to make the boom. I have had several ideas on this front, but not much time to track-down the parts. I have now found the tubing for my original plan; a VAX vacuum extension pair of interlocking tubes, which will give a strong pillar for the boom.
I have been keeping an eye on a microphone boom kit that will not sell on a certain auction site before/after Xmas, so I'm hoping the "price is right" in the next week or so.....
Overall, what has been built into this trolley so-far is fantastic;
1) Trolley itself was a good start, as it seems to be keeping the equipment clean inside despite all the grinding and welding going-on over Xmas around the machine...... 2) The M93p Tiny secondhand PC that supports all the functions is just great - I would definitely recommend this as a starting-point for such a project, as it is quick & quiet 3) All the clipping is holding-up well, despite repeated bashing..... 4) The ethernet switch-box appears to have attained a "happy stability" right now, but Rhyds was bang on the money when he suggested keeping the reset switch handy!
I'm about to build the Bosch BSU into the base of the cabinet in the next week or so, and sort-out some proper battery lead tidies on the side of the cabinet, as I find myself tripping-over this BSU far too often, and the cabinet is better near the battery anyway for most tasks. I won't permanently fit the BSU, but just make it easier to stow and deploy, whilst keeping it clean(er).
I'm struggling a little with integration of the Autocom CDP+ laptop with the trolley. It now lives in the middle drawer, and has neat access-points for ethernet and power, but it still feels like it's "living out of a suitcase" ......if you get my gist...!!
|
|
|
|
Post by givusaclue on Jan 21, 2021 13:48:54 GMT 1
changed my mind, i want it back  |
|
|
|
Post by trickydicky on Jan 21, 2021 16:42:55 GMT 1
How are you getting on with this little project?? Ah, well, I was just thinking earlier this week, "I must report back on how this fantastic trolley is doing" In summary, I'm still looking for the right sort of tubing to make the boom. I have had several ideas on this front, but not much time to track-down the parts. I have now found the tubing for my original plan; a VAX vacuum extension pair of interlocking tubes, which will give a strong pillar for the boom. I have been keeping an eye on a microphone boom kit that will not sell on a certain auction site before/after Xmas, so I'm hoping the "price is right" in the next week or so..... Overall, what has been built into this trolley so-far is fantastic; 1) Trolley itself was a good start, as it seems to be keeping the equipment clean inside despite all the grinding and welding going-on over Xmas around the machine...... 2) The M93p Tiny secondhand PC that supports all the functions is just great - I would definitely recommend this as a starting-point for such a project, as it is quick & quiet 3) All the clipping is holding-up well, despite repeated bashing..... 4) The ethernet switch-box appears to have attained a "happy stability" right now, but Rhyds was bang on the money when he suggested keeping the reset switch handy! I'm about to build the Bosch BSU into the base of the cabinet in the next week or so, and sort-out some proper battery lead tidies on the side of the cabinet, as I find myself tripping-over this BSU far too often, and the cabinet is better near the battery anyway for most tasks. I won't permanently fit the BSU, but just make it easier to stow and deploy, whilst keeping it clean(er). I'm struggling a little with integration of the Autocom CDP+ laptop with the trolley. It now lives in the middle drawer, and has neat access-points for ethernet and power, but it still feels like it's "living out of a suitcase" ......if you get my gist...!! Look forward to seeing some pics, sounds like a good set up 👍 |
|
|
|
Post by valhalla on Jan 21, 2021 21:46:01 GMT 1
Regarding the Autocom CDP+ laptop, I had a thought or two last night, as you do, and I might see if it is possible to do the following;
1) Run a remote desktop from the main Win10Pro PC built into the cabinet, to the Win10Home laptop itself 2) Leave the laptop plugged-in unless it is needed for a remote diagnostic 3) Build the laptop a snug slot to house it and protect it from dust, but just leave some ventilation through the cabinet internal volume 4) Power-up the laptop with Wake On LAN from the main M93p Tiny, if that is possible in its BIOS settings 5) Maybe repurpose a proper ethernet router (rather than the present switch) to allow a Wake On LAN - Rhyds might know the finer details of such a set-up?
The above would be a great way to use the laptop without getting it dirty and full of grinding dust all the time, and would free-up the laptop bag that I had to donate to the cause.
|
|
|
|
Post by rhyds on Jan 22, 2021 10:40:03 GMT 1
Regarding the Autocom CDP+ laptop, I had a thought or two last night, as you do, and I might see if it is possible to do the following; 1) Run a remote desktop from the main Win10Pro PC built into the cabinet, to the Win10Home laptop itself 2) Leave the laptop plugged-in unless it is needed for a remote diagnostic 3) Build the laptop a snug slot to house it and protect it from dust, but just leave some ventilation through the cabinet internal volume 4) Power-up the laptop with Wake On LAN from the main M93p Tiny, if that is possible in its BIOS settings 5) Maybe repurpose a proper ethernet router (rather than the present switch) to allow a Wake On LAN - Rhyds might know the finer details of such a set-up?
The above would be a great way to use the laptop without getting it dirty and full of grinding dust all the time, and would free-up the laptop bag that I had to donate to the cause.
Wake-on-LAN should be reasonably straightforward to set up on a laptop (the network card is part of the motherboard, so should just be a BIOS option). You can then use your current PC (that's on the same switch) to generate the "magic packet" for Wake-on-LAN functionality without buying extra kit. Doing VNC/Remote desktop to the other laptop is possible, but will drive you mad with lag etc pretty quickly IMO. Another option you might consider is a KVM (keyboard-video-mouse) switch in the cabinet. I assume your current PC has a keyboard, mouse and monitor on the trolley? In that case grab a cheap two-system KVM switch, plug your Keyboard, mouse and screen in to that then plug the KVM's cables in to the two systems. You can then swap the same keyboard/mouse/screen combo between the two units I use one like this at a site where I have one keyboard/screen/mouse and need access to two servers. Its got a manual switching button (other units require a specific keyboard sequence to swap) which you could mount on your work surface www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ATEN-2-Port-USB-VGA-KVM-Switch-Cable-with-Remote-Port-Selector-Good-Condition/164640524604?epid=28033524071&hash=item265557093c:g:ImsAAOSwYi1f~enh |
|
|
|
Post by valhalla on Jan 22, 2021 12:05:43 GMT 1
Excellent idea there about using KVM switch - I did have an old one somewhere, but it dates back to 2004, so is not too relevant anymore!! I had overlooked this as an option, because they seem to have gone out of flavour a bit these days - everything seems to need its own hardware now - but also my original KVM wasn't the greatest bit of kit back then... 
I will have a look around and see what I can find, and report back. Maybe my first port-of-call might be to see that I can send the Wake On LAN, and then make the purchase for the KVM, in case the latter has to be slightly fancier to provide a wake-up on keystroke (or something like that.....  ) |
|
|
|
Post by rhyds on Jan 22, 2021 17:48:02 GMT 1
You could always leave the unit in standby/sleep and wake it with a keystroke
|
|
|
|
Post by remmington on Jan 22, 2021 17:49:01 GMT 1
changed my mind, i want it back That was funny - Valhalla came to Lincs to collect it - did he not? |
|
|
|
Post by givusaclue on Jan 22, 2021 17:53:59 GMT 1
he did, a long drive by any standards
|
|
|
|
Post by valhalla on Jan 23, 2021 23:16:27 GMT 1
he did, a long drive by any standards How I miss those long drives!!!
The thing was, it couldn't have been easier, 2.5TDI Volvo at 55mpg and 75mph makes for a very relaxing cruise, didn't miss a beat, and showed all those so-called modern jalopies how it should be done.....despatching 1650miles over 4days with alacrity .
|
|
)