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Post by studabear on Sept 14, 2020 22:55:44 GMT 1
Whats the best option for heating siezed nuts and bolts when working in a home workshop?
Butane blow torches looks reasonably priced on ebay, obviously a oxy acetalyne setup isn't a viable option.
Educate me oh wise ones.
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Post by valhalla on Sept 14, 2020 23:51:06 GMT 1
I use something a bit more subtle for just heating fixings, but it all depends on the nature of the job (size);
Propane torch for the bigger lumps of metal, where the surrounding area is not too sensitive. The propane burns hotter and more intensely at the tip of the flame, so it really gets the fixing good and hot fast, which means there's a better "thermal shock" into the fixing system, and hence a better chance of getting the thread free first-time. You can always turn the flame down a bit....
For M8 and smaller fixings, and where the surrounding area really matters (plastic nearby, for example), I use a mini torch like a Dremel soldering iron, with the soldering front-end removed to just give a pencil-flame. This is particularly good for small screws that are seized, as the heat is focused right on the fixing, and doesn't also expand the surrounding metal.
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Post by sorted on Sept 15, 2020 1:47:34 GMT 1
I would just add, if buying a gas torch, get one that uses the yellow MAP gas cartridges, they can give far more heat than the blue butane ones.
I used one of these extensively on the Stag and am pleased to say I had only one bolt on the whole car that refused to come undone using a combination of heat, penetrating oil and patience (and percussive shock of course) and this really was every single nut and bolt on the car removed.
The one I failed on I have to say I did not try overly hard- it was on the front suspension and I knew I would be replacing the drag strut anyway so as soon as it was clear it didn’t want to play nicely I cut it off with a thin disc to ensure I didn’t damage the hub carrier.
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