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Post by valhalla on Feb 18, 2018 1:58:27 GMT 1
On the opposite sides of the posts it has white reflectors. All done by the old boy we bought the house from. Clever man. Given where I live, I believe that you cannot have enough help with markers and reflectors, or even lighting, to keep hard things from going too near to the bodywork. Your vendor must have worked for the Highways department!
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Post by studabear on Feb 18, 2018 9:23:29 GMT 1
He worked for the council, my neighbour reckons the fence posts came from one of the piers. 😂
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Post by studabear on Feb 19, 2018 19:33:33 GMT 1
Driven it to MOT station and almost turned around and didn't bother with the MOT, was seriously debating breaking the car for parts. Gear change felt shit, a lot of vibration from the solid mounts. Not to keen on the gear ratios as it cannot cruise at 30mph in 4th now as the revs are just a tad low and due to the vibrations its horrible.
I'm gonna have to try and see what I can stop vibrating, I think one of the main culprits is the steering column cowling.
What have I done?
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Post by Rhubarb on Feb 19, 2018 19:37:33 GMT 1
Driven it to MOT station and almost turned around and didn't bother with the MOT, was seriously debating breaking the car for parts. Gear change felt shit, a lot of vibration from the solid mounts. Not to keen on the gear ratios as it cannot cruise at 30mph in 4th now as the revs are just a tad low and due to the vibrations its horrible. I'm gonna have to try and see what I can stop vibrating, I think one of the main culprits is the steering column cowling. What have I done?Can you change the mounts easily enough? Gear change, yes I remember many a time trying to get them right after a clutch job.
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Post by studabear on Feb 19, 2018 19:54:12 GMT 1
I've fixed the gear issue, the selector mechanism was just fouling the servo support bracket, was evident once I could look while the tester operated the gear stick.
The mountings i'm not sure tbh as they are custom parts. Need to speak to the supplier.
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Post by valhalla on Feb 20, 2018 0:18:53 GMT 1
I've fixed the gear issue, the selector mechanism was just fouling the servo support bracket, was evident once I could look while the tester operated the gear stick. The mountings i'm not sure tbh as they are custom parts. Need to speak to the supplier.Are you sure there are no other fouls between the powertrain and the body? It's quite tight around the bulkhead there, so there might be a foul straight through a bit of pipework or trapped cable. As Rhubarb says, if you can change the mounts easily enough, could you try the old parts (modified if necessary) to see if the vibration goes away. If it doesn't, then it would point to the induction circuit or exhaust being trapped somewhere.
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Post by Rhubarb on Feb 20, 2018 0:25:22 GMT 1
Remember years back I did an engine change on a Rover 25...After I ran it up and around the block I got it booked in for a Mot...
Awful vibration, worst at tickover..Was a catch strap/bracket that was over the top of O/S engine mount, vibrating on the body..
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Post by studabear on Feb 20, 2018 8:04:58 GMT 1
Going to have another look when it's taxed. Nearside chassis leg is our suspicion. The fabricator said it sounds like something fouling as it shouldn't be as bad as it is.
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Post by studabear on Mar 3, 2018 14:51:53 GMT 1
Sorted a lot of the vibration out this morning, hopefully that is sorted now. New gearbox doesn't really like doing 30mph in 4th it's happier at 35mph cruise in 4th so I will have to use 3rd gear more around town for cruising in traffic speeds.
Bad news is I'm off in the garage as soon as engine is cool enough to work on,I have a oil leak around the turbo oil return. I replaced the gasket for the flange this morning at work but it's still leaking so I think it's gonna be easier to remove the turbo and have a look in the bench. I'm hoping it's something simple.
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Post by studabear on Mar 3, 2018 18:27:23 GMT 1
Turbo wasn't to bad to remove, can get to everything from up top now which is a bonus. Had a couple of swear words as the bolts securing turbo to manifold seemed to have tightened themselves up a bit. So with the turbo off the car I could have a better look at what was going on as my concern was that it may have been the turbo itself. It looks like it isn't the turbo, I'm pretty certain that its the flange on the oil return pipe, hopefully this can be skimmmed at the engineers. I've forwarded this picture onto my contact there and he reckons it should be fixable. So I will drop it in with them on Monday morning. Might order yet another gasket just to be on the safe side. Worst thing is I could have spotted this without removing the turbo sods law I suppose.
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Post by valhalla on Mar 7, 2018 1:20:19 GMT 1
That flange finish doesn't look good. A new gasket might fix it, but probably only with a smear of Hylomar to gap-fill the metalwork. I think your idea about getting it skimmed is the best way. This sort of shape flange is always a challenge, at best, to get right first time - there's never enough clamping force possible around the drain port. On a turbo it's a lot worse, as you cannot go for a controlled-swell gasket material to make the deficiencies up, because the temperature will just kill any elastomeric material in the gasket.
Are you using a rubber-faced steel sort of gasket on this (i.e. a gasket with a ridge around the main port in the centre) or is your gasket just sheet material? There are plenty of decent turbo drain gaskets out there in the field (BMW and Landrover are good sources for this sort of thing) that should match your dimensions - they might make the difference if your hardware either side of the gasket is a bit rough.
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Post by studabear on Mar 7, 2018 8:59:11 GMT 1
The gasket is like the one I the left of the flange in that picture. Flange was skimmed Monday and new gasket came yesterday morning. I've put it all back together last night while I had a spare hour (wife watching Holby) Just not had a chance to run it up to temp and check it out. Neighbours are good but it was a bit late for the 4" tail pipe to be rumbling away as it resonates a bit from the garage.
Did try to upload a pic last night but couldn't work it out from my phone.
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Post by studabear on Mar 7, 2018 21:57:30 GMT 1
Still haven't ran it up yet, maybe a job for Saturday after work once Ive investigated a heater motor that's not working a relations car.
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Post by valhalla on Mar 8, 2018 0:39:01 GMT 1
That's much better. I still reckon you could do worse than look for a better gasket. A square hole on the sort of flange that you are trying to clamp it with is asking for trouble. Is that the genuine Ford solution to this sort of turbo? or is it what is supplied with the turbo as an aftermarket fit?
If you measure the hole centres and the bore diameter of your flange, I could have a look through some LR parts and see if there is a better gasket off the shelf. The new machining of your flange will go 90% of the way to fixing all your problems, but if you have further leaks in the future, a gasket with a round hole and raised lip that fits the pipe-end will definitely go the extra 10% !!
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Post by studabear on Mar 8, 2018 8:25:05 GMT 1
That's the proper gasket for a T3 oil return, the square in the gasket is the shape of the face turbo side. As far as I can remember it's always been like that as in square on turbo circle on flange. I will see how this behaves now (Just need some time to use the thing as life is a bit groundhog day at the minute) and if need be look for further solutions as you suggest. Thanks.
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