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Post by remmington on Mar 8, 2015 20:49:19 GMT 1
Done clutch and eccentric slave cylinder on 2006 Suzuki grand Vitara 2.0 petrol 4x4 today.
Clutch plate was so worn out car would not drive forwards at all. Can only done 67k.
I really - really had problems getting the fluid to come thru to the bottom bleed nipple on the gearbox.
I think I have all the air out of it now!
But the problem I have now is, the clutch biting point is so low (you have to ram the pedal into the carpet).
It was a Sunday morning job! Gonna try re-bleeding Monday when there is two people in the workshop to do it.
Is there any adjustment on the pedal end?
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Post by Dragon on Mar 8, 2015 22:16:41 GMT 1
Did you try to pressure bleed it? I don't know what it is but every time I've had to bleed a clutch lately I've had to rig up a pressure bleeder to them to get any fluid out, it might be just be some of the wrecks I've been working on  |
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Post by studabear on Mar 8, 2015 22:17:23 GMT 1
Could you get a pressure bleeder on these, or a mitivac and suck the fluid down?
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Post by remmington on Mar 8, 2015 22:22:49 GMT 1
Did you try to pressure bleed it? I don't know what it is but every time I've had to bleed a clutch lately I've had to rig up a pressure bleeder to them to get any fluid out, it might be just be some of the wrecks I've been working on It is Japanese, the chances I have a pressure bleeder cap to fit it, is low to no f##king chance! Vile weekend workwise! Sat: Engine swap in Corsa 1.2 went well, car started no chain rattle! Got it done in 4.5hours. But heater matrix partially blocked! Sun: Clutch 3hrs, then took another hour to get fluid thru! Mon: Horn on 09 Astra not working (CIM problem) |
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Post by remmington on Mar 8, 2015 22:28:47 GMT 1
Could you get a pressure bleeder on these, or a mitivac and suck the fluid down? I used a Sykes Vac bleeder on the bleed screw to pull some fluid thru (as photo) Well mine does not look as clean as this, it has been thrown about in temper bleeding things up!  |
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Post by Dragon on Mar 8, 2015 22:35:20 GMT 1
Did you try to pressure bleed it? I don't know what it is but every time I've had to bleed a clutch lately I've had to rig up a pressure bleeder to them to get any fluid out, it might be just be some of the wrecks I've been working on It is Japanese, the chances I have a pressure bleeder cap to fit it, is low to no f##king chance! Vile weekend workwise! Sat: Engine swap in Corsa 1.2 went well, car started no chain rattle! Got it done in 4.5hours. But heater matrix partially blocked! Sun: Clutch 3hrs, then took another hour to get fluid thru! Mon: Horn on 09 Astra not working (CIM problem) I feel your pain, yesterday service on a 97 Grand Cherokee and the brake pipe popped after collecting from customers house, after that I was well cheesed off! you just know that the day is only just going to get better  We have a universal cap but it is a right old rig moral to get it fit with out leaking, I have heard of people drilling a hole in the master cyl caps and fit a tyre valve in and use regulated air pressure, bleed the brakes/clutch remove valve and fit a grommet to seal hole. |
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Post by valhalla on Mar 8, 2015 22:41:52 GMT 1
Have you tried just blocking the pedal down for a few hours? That's what I have done tonight for a TD5 90 Defender that I had in for a clutch swap before the weekend. It always works on these. I wanted to be sure that the clutch pedal was fine before I go any further with the reassembly - this job has been vile. It should be so easy, but compared to the Suzuki Vitara I did last Autumn, it's just been one thing after another. I wanted to at least make sure I was ready to go tomorrow morning with the easy re-bolting things again, but it took me 2 hours just to get the gearboxes back in and bolted-up this afternoon.....turns out that this particular TD5 wanted to put the rear coolant steel pipe brackets just where the top of the bellhousing wanted to go. The engine also sits slightly awkwardly on this one, so the line on the gearboxes puts the transfer housing through the O/S chassis mount. The Suzuki, I just grabbed the gearboxes and slammed them back up against the engine (in frustration), and that's all it took. I'm impressed at 3 hours, all the same!
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Post by remmington on Mar 8, 2015 22:46:00 GMT 1
It is Japanese, the chances I have a pressure bleeder cap to fit it, is low to no f##king chance! Vile weekend workwise! Sat: Engine swap in Corsa 1.2 went well, car started no chain rattle! Got it done in 4.5hours. But heater matrix partially blocked! Sun: Clutch 3hrs, then took another hour to get fluid thru! Mon: Horn on 09 Astra not working (CIM problem) yesterday service on a 97 Grand Cherokee and the brake pipe popped after collecting from customers house, after that I was well cheesed off! you just know that the day is only just going to get better We have a universal cap but it is a right old rig moral to get it fit with out leaking, I have heard of people drilling a hole in the master cyl caps and fit a tyre valve in and use regulated air pressure, bleed the brakes/clutch remove valve and fit a grommet to seal hole. Pain... Five days work has turned into seven this week. Every job over running time wise. Every idiot who has ever owned a car has arrived at my garage for a quote with a million questions. Patience is running low! On a positive note, I am busy and earning! The negative side is, for the last month or so! I just keep repairing cars which I know in my "heart of hearts" are scrap on not worthy of being on the public roads. It is very demoralising trying to provide a quality repair to a heap of shit for customers who have no money. |
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Post by valhalla on Mar 8, 2015 22:52:52 GMT 1
I feel your pain there as well! I made a resolution NEVER to work on customer's cars on a Sunday again. Trouble is, I know that the Defender has over-run (the clutch had been cooked in style, so the cleaning-up was something to behold), yet the "easy fit-in" diagnostic tomorrow (Ford Tranny 2006 2.2 TDCi) is already looking like bad news - it wouldn't start to load it into the front of the workshop this afternoon (should start cold, not start hot, according to customer), and with a fresh battery charge tonight, it looks like more than just a CPS for tomorrow. Cranks and fires on one cylinder from cold.....occasionally. Bet I find a bit of debris in the there!!
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Post by remmington on Mar 8, 2015 22:57:20 GMT 1
Have you tried just blocking the pedal down for a few hours? That's what I have done tonight for a TD5 90 Defender that I had in for a clutch swap before the weekend. It always works on these. I wanted to be sure that the clutch pedal was fine before I go any further with the reassembly - this job has been vile. It should be so easy, but compared to the Suzuki Vitara I did last Autumn, it's just been one thing after another. I wanted to at least make sure I was ready to go tomorrow morning with the easy re-bolting things again, but it took me 2 hours just to get the gearboxes back in and bolted-up this afternoon.....turns out that this particular TD5 wanted to put the rear coolant steel pipe brackets just where the top of the bellhousing wanted to go. The engine also sits slightly awkwardly on this one, so the line on the gearboxes puts the transfer housing through the O/S chassis mount. The Suzuki, I just grabbed the gearboxes and slammed them back up against the engine (in frustration), and that's all it took. I'm impressed at 3 hours, all the same! Yep... Three hours, two post ramp, two gearbox stands, airgun everything apart all 14mm and 17mm sockets. One naughty 10mm bolt holding a clip holding a cable. Gearbox off, push back on stands then pump gearbox up to vehicle body to make it safe. Needed to find one fine metric bolt (longer than standard) to pull gearbox back on. I did airgun the lower engine mount off the subframe so I could adjust engine angle to get gearbox off and on at the right angle of approach (if you understand what I mean). Real trick with 4x4 gearboxes is using two hydraulic stands. You can alter the angle of the box with such precision, making it really safe on your own. No need to lift box down on to the floor. Worst bit till I started bleeding the fluid thru, was the trim on the gear lever inside the vehicle. Then the fluid problems started. I think I have got a bad seal in the master cylinder. (that looks worse to change than the removing the gearbox.) But the fluid delivery pipe goes miles around the brake chamber with loads of bends from reservoir to clutch master cylinder. Will try to rebleed. Explain thoughts about holding clutch pedal down! What is your thinking? More detail please? |
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Post by remmington on Mar 8, 2015 23:01:58 GMT 1
I feel your pain there as well! I made a resolution NEVER to work on customer's cars on a Sunday again. Trouble is, I know that the Defender has over-run (the clutch had been cooked in style, so the cleaning-up was something to behold), yet the "easy fit-in" diagnostic tomorrow (Ford Tranny 2006 2.2 TDCi) is already looking like bad news - it wouldn't start to load it into the front of the workshop this afternoon (should start cold, not start hot, according to customer), and with a fresh battery charge tonight, it looks like more than just a CPS for tomorrow. Cranks and fires on one cylinder from cold.....occasionally. Bet I find a bit of debris in the there!! Please drop the filter contents into a glass jar, before pledging any money on injector parts. I have done several inlet metering valves and rail pressure switches on transits (you need to enact a pump learn afterwards). I have a 2010 galaxy in the yard with 45k on the clock, the return pipe to the tank is blocked with metal swarf. Yes blocked! |
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Post by Dragon on Mar 8, 2015 23:06:20 GMT 1
Funny the guy with the jeep said "are you going to do that on Sunday morning" no I'm f*cking not, why is it customers expect us to work 24/7, mind you no different to any over trade I suppose. I know what you mean every job I seem to get normally requires brake pipes or some safety related work and then the how can we bodge this question, it just seems to suck the life out of me! but don't let the ba*tards grind you down  |
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Post by studabear on Mar 8, 2015 23:09:48 GMT 1
Explain thoughts about holding clutch pedal down! What is your thinking? More detail please?
Gravity
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Post by valhalla on Mar 8, 2015 23:12:55 GMT 1
Three hours, two post ramp, two gearbox stands, airgun everything apart all 14mm and 17mm sockets. One naughty 10mm bolt holding a clip holding a cable. Gearbox off, push back on stands then pump gearbox up to vehicle body to make it safe. Needed to find one fine metric bolt (longer than standard) to pull gearbox back on. I did airgun the lower engine mount off the subframe so I could adjust engine angle to get gearbox off and on at the right angle of approach (if you understand what I mean). Real trick with 4x4 gearboxes is using two hydraulic stands. You can alter the angle of the box with such precision, making it really safe on your own. No need to lift box down on to the floor. Worst bit till I started bleeding the fluid thru, was the trim on the gear lever inside the vehicle. Then the fluid problems started. I think I have got a bas seal in the master cylinder. (that looks worse to change than the removing the gearbox.) The '52 Suzuki GV1600 I did last year was a real treat in that respect. The only difficult bit was the top two bellhousing fixings - a bit tight for room to get a decent swing on a socket, but a bit of lateral thinking got a breaker-bar in there. The interior trim was a bit of a hassle; it was a nice light grey, great colour for a clutch job where the plate is burned to a cinder, and both engine and gearbox have leaked their way into the Guiness Book of Records. Good idea you have there regarding two hydraulic stands. I only have the one (quite a sturdy unit) which I fit a tilting support plate onto the top of the post, then sling chains around the 'boxes to hold them all stable. Having two stands would definitely be a lot more controllable. I'm glad that I was on the four-poster today (the two-post ramps are still not commissioned, but that's another story), because I had to go up on them twice to sort out the top of the bellhousing and back of the engine. With the gearbox stand underneath the car supporting the 'boxes, there was no way the car could come down, and I needed to keep the powertrain aligned whilst I fiddled with the coolant pipe brackets. |
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Post by remmington on Mar 8, 2015 23:13:45 GMT 1
Explain thoughts about holding clutch pedal down! What is your thinking? More detail please? Gravity If you hold the pedal down, the master cylinder feed from the brake fluid chamber will be blocked by the piston in the cylinder. How would that evacuate the air? |
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