spud
Apprentice
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Post by spud on Oct 21, 2021 19:44:58 GMT 1
soon ill be starting on the 78 robin as far as i can see chassis is sound but rusty i could fit a newer galvanised one from a later model that would also give me the rear seatbelts mounts and mounts for front inertia belts cant decide what to do  |
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Post by Rhubarb on Oct 21, 2021 22:19:22 GMT 1
Do you want to weld the old one?
How much is a new one?
Do you want to fit and use seat belts?
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Post by valhalla on Oct 21, 2021 23:22:10 GMT 1
Do you want to claim "Historic" tax-class for this car, or are you happy to treat it as a standard 3-wheeler at the end of the restoration? A replacement chassis will push you away from meeting the requirements of "Historic" if you need to make any other changes.
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spud
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Post by spud on Oct 22, 2021 6:11:24 GMT 1
Do you want to weld the old one? How much is a new one? Do you want to fit and use seat belts? i cant weld so no about £150 and inertia front seatbelts would be nice instead of fixed that are on there now |
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spud
Apprentice
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Post by spud on Oct 22, 2021 6:12:54 GMT 1
Do you want to claim "Historic" tax-class for this car, or are you happy to treat it as a standard 3-wheeler at the end of the restoration? A replacement chassis will push you away from meeting the requirements of "Historic" if you need to make any other changes. it would be the only change id be making but yeah id like historic tax class |
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huffo
Tea Maker
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Post by huffo on Oct 22, 2021 9:10:38 GMT 1
£150 for a new, galvanised, chassis!? Wow. Prices for a galvanised chassis for a Land-Rover start at about £2,000.
By the time you’ve wire brushed and painted your old chassis, it’ll probably have cost you at least £50 in materials. Then add in the cost of seatbelts etc.
Can you get anything for the old chassis if you sell it? That could partly offset the cost of the new chassis.
The rules for eligibility for historic tax say that the chassis must be original or renewed like-for-like with brand new. If the newer chassis is identical in all respects apart from having seat belt brackets, then I think you might get away with arguing it’s the same.
On the flip side: if there’s nothing wrong with your old chassis that a wire brush and a lick of paint won’t resolve (use POR15 paint!), then I’d be tempted to stick with what you’ve got. It just depends how much you like the idea of having inertia-reel seatbelts…
You should learn to weld. A second hand MIG welder will be cheaper than that new chassis, and it’s not hard to learn to glue bits of metal together with it. The keys to strong welds are having an automatic mask, preparation (clean metal), having the patience to grind it back and weld some more if necessary, and try to avoid overhead welding (upside down)!
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spud
Apprentice
Posts: 1,275
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Post by spud on Oct 22, 2021 11:50:45 GMT 1
£150 for a new, galvanised, chassis!? Wow. Prices for a galvanised chassis for a Land-Rover start at about £2,000. By the time you’ve wire brushed and painted your old chassis, it’ll probably have cost you at least £50 in materials. Then add in the cost of seatbelts etc. Can you get anything for the old chassis if you sell it? That could partly offset the cost of the new chassis. The rules for eligibility for historic tax say that the chassis must be original or renewed like-for-like with brand new. If the newer chassis is identical in all respects apart from having seat belt brackets, then I think you might get away with arguing it’s the same. On the flip side: if there’s nothing wrong with your old chassis that a wire brush and a lick of paint won’t resolve (use POR15 paint!), then I’d be tempted to stick with what you’ve got. It just depends how much you like the idea of having inertia-reel seatbelts… You should learn to weld. A second hand MIG welder will be cheaper than that new chassis, and it’s not hard to learn to glue bits of metal together with it. The keys to strong welds are having an automatic mask, preparation (clean metal), having the patience to grind it back and weld some more if necessary, and try to avoid overhead welding (upside down)! well i say new but its used for 150 i supose i should just wait until the bodys off before i make any real decisions |
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Post by rhyds on Oct 22, 2021 15:01:41 GMT 1
There's a BIG difference between a new chassis and and a second hand chassis for this job. A new chassis won't have a logbook/V5, so you could use that to replace your original chassis, bolt everything up to it and voila! One restored 1970s Reliant with a new chassis. A second hand chassis will have its own identity, so you're then stuck with the DVLA's "points" system to work out which identity/logbook/V5 is applicable. www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/radically-altered-vehiclesIn short, if you use the newer chassis with the old engine/gearbox/suspension/steering then you will probably end up having to put it on a Q plate as there's not enough of the old car left to use its plate, but not enough of the new one to use that plate either. I'd ask the question in the Reliant groups/forums to see what the consensus is. |
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spud
Apprentice
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Post by spud on Oct 22, 2021 19:38:02 GMT 1
There's a BIG difference between a new chassis and and a second hand chassis for this job. A new chassis won't have a logbook/V5, so you could use that to replace your original chassis, bolt everything up to it and voila! One restored 1970s Reliant with a new chassis. A second hand chassis will have its own identity, so you're then stuck with the DVLA's "points" system to work out which identity/logbook/V5 is applicable. www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/radically-altered-vehiclesIn short, if you use the newer chassis with the old engine/gearbox/suspension/steering then you will probably end up having to put it on a Q plate as there's not enough of the old car left to use its plate, but not enough of the new one to use that plate either.
I'd ask the question in the Reliant groups/forums to see what the consensus is. general feeling is its ok to do because the chassis hasnt actually got an id on it but ive also found out ive actually got a set of inertia belts that will fit in the box of parts that came with this so im going to wait to see how it all looks when the bodys off |
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Post by rhyds on Oct 23, 2021 8:05:27 GMT 1
Ahaa, so the "chassis"/VIN number is actually on the body and the "chassis" is more like a subframe? That sounds much less troublesome!
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spud
Apprentice
Posts: 1,275
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Post by spud on Oct 23, 2021 12:08:49 GMT 1
Ahaa, so the "chassis"/VIN number is actually on the body and the "chassis" is more like a subframe? That sounds much less troublesome! yes thats it exacty although i did actually get a vin no plate and logbook with the chassis ive got also got some nice 10" weller style wheels |
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