qisar
New Member
Posts: 16 
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Post by qisar on Jul 12, 2019 17:54:09 GMT 1
Hi all,
I have a 1993 Peugeot 106 that failed its MOT this year, after passing the previous one with no fails. The main issue being is that there appears to be "excessive corrosion" from the chassis outrigger to the sill, but there were also problems with both front brakes, which have worn.
In 2017 I had the car sprayed with wax oil and believe that this is how it had managed to scrape through its last test with no problems. Obviously, not having the car sprayed last year will mean that any rust problem will have just gotten worse over the year, leading me now having to pay £300 in welding costs. Still, I am surprised at how something that was considered only to be a slight problem last year, is now one so serious that it would have been dangerous for me to drive it in that state. What would cause rust to spread so rapidly, in such a short time?
Also, I was just wondering if a) the above cost is reasonable considering the work involved and b) what else I can do apart from applying wax oil to stop the rust. I appreciate that the car is 26 years old, but I have had it now for sometime and so I am somewhat used to it.
Cheers!
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Post by chippie on Jul 12, 2019 18:46:49 GMT 1
Hi all, I have a 1993 Peugeot 106 that failed its MOT this year, after passing the previous one with no fails. The main issue being is that there appears to be "excessive corrosion" from the chassis outrigger to the sill, but there were also problems with both front brakes, which have worn. In 2017 I had the car sprayed with wax oil and believe that this is how it had managed to scrape through its last test with no problems. Obviously, not having the car sprayed last year will mean that any rust problem will have just gotten worse over the year, leading me now having to pay £300 in welding costs. Still, I am surprised at how something that was considered only to be a slight problem last year, is now one so serious that it would have been dangerous for me to drive it in that state. What would cause rust to spread so rapidly, in such a short time? Also, I was just wondering if a) the above cost is reasonable considering the work involved and b) what else I can do apart from applying wax oil to stop the rust. I appreciate that the car is 26 years old, but I have had it now for sometime and so I am somewhat used to it. Cheers! Spraying with waxoyl a number of years after will only trap any existing moisture and wont prevent the inevitable.... If you want to keep the car, I suggest you spend some money on a new outrigger and have the job done professionally... Maybe not what you want to hear..... |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jul 12, 2019 19:08:22 GMT 1
Welding old vehicles that can sometimes not look too bad is not going to stop the corrosion/rust spreading when the welder has to clean up the affected areas back to solid clean material to weld to. The welder understands what he is looking at when pricing jobs, the onlooker sees the physical evidence at that time but is not necessarily the whole picture once cleaned up and prepped for repairs.
Just a case in point as you mention 'Out rigger'. They actually should not fail the mot test for corrosion!
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remmington
Apprentice
Owns Spark Eroder
Posts: 4,972
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Post by remmington on Jul 12, 2019 21:12:13 GMT 1
The "tin worm" can work it's way from the inside of sills outwards sometimes.
£300 does not buy you a lot of welding these days - so it can't be that bad!
Wax oil is the enemy if the sills have been pumped full of it - you can get some nasty fires when welding patches on - as you can't get the wax oil out.
Gaurdian is right - what looks a small hole - can be huge - once you have started cleaning it back to find some good metal to weld to.
I have been in the trade a long while - I have only seen one rusty car with holes fall apart - it was a Citroen BX - the front strut came thru the inner wheel arch - causing the wheel to rub.
I don't think corrosion is such a panic item - for MOT testing - 300mm from seatbelt or suspension mountings would be enough.
I have done lots welding on cars for the MOT over the years - more than I care to recall. I wondered several times - how much of it was really warranted?
Not being able to weld anything - suspension wise that could be removed from the main structure of the car - has caused a few problems for us with subframes.
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Post by studabear on Jul 12, 2019 23:32:47 GMT 1
Welding old vehicles that can sometimes not look too bad is not going to stop the corrosion/rust spreading when the welder has to clean up the affected areas back to solid clean material to weld to. The welder understands what he is looking at when pricing jobs, the onlooker sees the physical evidence at that time but is not necessarily the whole picture once cleaned up and prepped for repairs. Just a case in point as you mention 'Out rigger'. They actually should not fail the mot test for corrosion! Is the out rigger more than 30cm from any suspension, steering or braking prescribed areas? |
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Post by Joepublic on Jul 13, 2019 0:25:07 GMT 1
Hi all, I have a 1993 Peugeot 106 that failed its MOT this year, after passing the previous one with no fails. The main issue being is that there appears to be "excessive corrosion" from the chassis outrigger to the sill, but there were also problems with both front brakes, which have worn. In 2017 I had the car sprayed with wax oil and believe that this is how it had managed to scrape through its last test with no problems. Obviously, not having the car sprayed last year will mean that any rust problem will have just gotten worse over the year, leading me now having to pay £300 in welding costs. Still, I am surprised at how something that was considered only to be a slight problem last year, is now one so serious that it would have been dangerous for me to drive it in that state. What would cause rust to spread so rapidly, in such a short time? Also, I was just wondering if a) the above cost is reasonable considering the work involved and b) what else I can do apart from applying wax oil to stop the rust. I appreciate that the car is 26 years old, but I have had it now for sometime and so I am somewhat used to it. Cheers! I’ve not seen one of those for a long time, I thought they’d all rotted away........ Invest £500 or so in it and you may get a few more years out of it |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jul 13, 2019 11:10:40 GMT 1
Welding old vehicles that can sometimes not look too bad is not going to stop the corrosion/rust spreading when the welder has to clean up the affected areas back to solid clean material to weld to. The welder understands what he is looking at when pricing jobs, the onlooker sees the physical evidence at that time but is not necessarily the whole picture once cleaned up and prepped for repairs. Just a case in point as you mention 'Out rigger'. They actually should not fail the mot test for corrosion! Is the out rigger more than 30cm from any suspension, steering or braking prescribed areas? Having had a few discussions with senior policy makers at DVSA, they do advise that an outrigger is not a fail. |
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Post by valhalla on Jul 15, 2019 18:15:20 GMT 1
Is the out rigger more than 30cm from any suspension, steering or braking prescribed areas? Having had a few discussions with senior policy makers at DVSA, they do advise that an outrigger is not a fail. Depends if there is a load-bearing area within the radial limit prescribed above. That would include the front subframe rear mount to the body?? 
To be frank, nobody goes out of their way to drive a car around with a corrosion hole in it, so even if it was not an MoT fail, it is still worth getting it repaired properly (welding) then enjoying the car for another few years without the worry of it all getting worse and worse.
If the car is otherwise good, then it makes sense to spend a bit of money on it and reap the benefits over the next year or so. Or buy a slightly newer car and worry that it might have its own problems...
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Post by chippie on Jul 20, 2019 12:15:08 GMT 1
Having had a few discussions with senior policy makers at DVSA, they do advise that an outrigger is not a fail. Depends if there is a load-bearing area within the radial limit prescribed above. That would include the front subframe rear mount to the body?? If the car is otherwise good, then it makes sense to spend a bit of money on it and reap the benefits over the next year or so. Or buy a slightly newer car and worry that it might have its own problems...
Sound advice there from valhalla. Just read the thread on the 63 plate corsa, that suffered from timing chain issues.....Rather than just fit a new chain, I spent a bit more and fitted a full kit, plus a new water pump, oil change and a new set of discs and pads at the frontJustification: MoT coming up, and I know my last car had an advisory on front discs....Maybe a bit extravagant but its my daughter's lifeline, so a bit of cash spent now is worth it to keep it going for a while longer... In your case with the Pug, spend a bit of cash if you can afford it....or be prepared to spend more later on a new motor when the rust has gotten beyond economical repair... |
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