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Post by valhalla on Apr 6, 2015 11:43:58 GMT 1
The easiest way to do these is to strip the front end off as they are buried under the inlet manifold and can be tough to do due to oil and other dirt getting stuck around the plugs. Thanks for the tip. I did too good a job of putting them off for a bit, but I'm going to try to get the thing in later this week - I'll get a photo or two of the job for future reference. From what I saw of the 1.9 4-cylinder job on the forum linked earlier in this thread, you probably could get a blow-gun in there to clear around the plugs, but then you would still need a few flexible 1/4" drive extensions to work around the manifold. It sounds like the 5-cylinder is much the same.....
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Post by Joepublic on Apr 6, 2015 12:50:50 GMT 1
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Post by valhalla on Apr 6, 2015 19:39:04 GMT 1
I find it usfull sometimes to view used bits on there to help see what kind of job I'm facing A tight job by the look of it, almost completely obscured from above. No photo opportunities there, then....
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Post by valhalla on Apr 10, 2015 22:55:21 GMT 1
I have a caravelle '06 2.5 TD PD 130bhp and only found them by mistake when changing the alternator. The easiest way to do these is to strip the front end off as they are buried under the inlet manifold and can be tough to do due to oil and other dirt getting stuck around the plugs. I take it that you mean to remove the front armature assembly (bumper, rad-packs, headlamps, etc.) using the time-honoured "Audi" method of sliding the lot forward on pins? I am about to slide this one forward (well, grate it forward, as I don't have a smooth bar for the pin, only M16 studding!) but cannot find a pin location on the nearside chassis rail, or anywhere else for that matter. It seems a bit odd that VW go to the effort of putting an O/S one in place, but not a N/S, when a couple of projecting arms out the front of the van could have supported the assembly quite nicely. I have no pictures yet, because there is absolutely b-all access to anything behind the fan-packs. I hope to get some shots when I have a foot clearance to get a mirror down!
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Post by Joepublic on Apr 11, 2015 22:40:05 GMT 1
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Post by valhalla on Apr 12, 2015 21:49:03 GMT 1
Now, that's what has been getting to me - why do all the forums show the front bumper and radiator packs being removed bit by bit? As these people masochists? I eventually realised that VW intended the service pins to go into 2 out of the 4 fixing positions that hold the whole front end together - so when I said I had found the O/S pin position, I was really using the towing eye location with an M16 stud. So today, I fabricated 4 slider pins to go into the proper locations. Removing the front end in this way is so much easier than any of the "specialist" forums might suggest. Much less to unbolt, about an hour absolute tops to get to the position of being able to see the front of the engine. This is what VW mean about putting the "lock beam" into its "service" position (see photo). It gives you approximately 12-20cm to play with, which is enough to see you don't have any visibility whatsoever of the front of the engine (see second photo). Attachment DeletedAttachment DeletedBasically, if you understand how VW build their vehicles (with all the design that goes into this "manufacturability"), then life gets a whole lot easier!
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Post by valhalla on Apr 12, 2015 22:06:09 GMT 1
So, moving swiftly on from gaining access down the front of the engine, what sort of job presents itself, I asked myself. Absolute c***. Until you move the inlet manifold, you cannot see a thing, as the following photo shows (the glowplug is circled). Attachment DeletedBearing in mind that this photo was taken by holding the camera down behind the radiator, access is not too great. In fact, I reckon you would have to be mad to even try, given the fun and games I had later, and that was with the manifold removed. The following two shots are of the "radiator's eye view" of the plugs from 2 to 5, and it's plug 5 that concerned me a bit - it's right behind the coolant adapter elbow casting. Attachment DeletedAttachment DeletedIt is possible to get a 1/4" drive deep socket (10mm AF) onto the plug, and withdraw it with the same, but getting the plug back...... In the end, after over an hour of trying and failing with mirrors, etc. I conceded defeat and got the camera probe out. Only then could I get the new plug to engage the nose into the hole and push it home to the thread. I very nearly tossed a bucket of petrol at the van, I was steaming at the end! The trouble is, as the photos above attempt to show, is that the glowplugs are at an awkward compound angle upwards and sideways into the head, which does not lend itself to fitting them blind, which is what you are doing all the time. They are deeply recessed into the head between the inlet ports and other casting features, so are a pain in derierre to work out what is going on. Definitely a three-handed job to manage light, mirror, and glowplug at the same time!
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Post by Rhubarb on Apr 12, 2015 22:36:15 GMT 1
Put it off for another week, I bet the access is shite Ahem..Glad you got it done though
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Post by Joepublic on Apr 12, 2015 22:48:45 GMT 1
I've just read elsewhere about doing the injector seals, they say if you remove the rear mount and rotate the engine backwards there's enough room to remove the inlet manifold etc without touching the front end
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Post by valhalla on Apr 12, 2015 22:59:40 GMT 1
I think I've seen something like that as well, although I thought it was a stabiliser at the front of the sump that had to be removed. There does seem to be a lot of room down the back, and all the hoses are made long for the "lock beam service" mode, so rocking the engine back makes sense.
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Post by valhalla on Apr 12, 2015 23:14:27 GMT 1
Put it off for another week, I bet the access is shite Ahem..Glad you got it done though So am I, although I still have to put it all back together tomorrow afternoon. I did test the glow system before going ahead with this job, and that delayed things a bit; the glow relay and fuse for getting a current clamp onto are both under the battery - but you need the battery to test the system...... So in the end I ran the battery power through jump-leads directly into the relay socket, and concluded that the system was only drawing 60% of the initial "cold-plug" current, around 60A total, whereas it should be around 20A/plug. So either all 5 plugs were getting tired, or a couple were duff. I didn't have the room at the time to get down to the glow harness at the engine front nearside, so I just had to go with the job and do all 5 whilst I was in there. The poor cold-starting may also be something to do with the induction system having blown apart at some stage - one of the quick-fit couplings had parted on the intercooler hosing. This wouldn't normally be a problem, but I think (from a crude measure I did yesterday) that VW are using a smoke-limitation clamp on the idle governor fueling, which may well be active during a start on this controller. So if the mass airflow meter has a gaping hole between it and the engine, there might not be a full start-up fuel mass available when the engine begins to turn a bit faster. I've got as bit of extra work to "tidy" this engine bay, as it goes back together, so I will give everything a clean before the front end goes back. At least none of the plugs snapped-off clean in the head! It's just the labour bill for this that going to be painful.....
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