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Post by Deleted on Oct 9, 2014 17:58:19 GMT 1
No I checked the links only but now you mention it I will give them a ring
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Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2014 20:50:40 GMT 1
Big job it is LOL The whole job did seem to go ok except for the stud breaking and no access, then struggling to remove the chain housing and finding ways round the ladder frame didn't work, it started to leak oil at the bell housing when running
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Post by Karl on Oct 18, 2014 21:26:17 GMT 1
Is it all finished then ?
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Post by Rhubarb on Oct 18, 2014 22:16:05 GMT 1
Is it all finished then ? Nope, it's still on the mot ramp...Brake imbalance and excessive oil leak
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Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2014 22:16:49 GMT 1
Is it all finished then ? It was and apart from the ladder frame leaking oil everything went to plan ok, now I have to remove the gearbox, clutch and flywheel and sump to remove the ladder frame to sort out the leak Not having removed the gearbox from a Connect before and according to autodata the front sub frame needs to be removed, but looking underside of the van I see that the differencial might be a problem round the sub frame area but don't yet know if I could remove the gearbox without removing the sub frame? Can it be done?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2014 22:20:25 GMT 1
Is it all finished then ? Nope, it's still on the mot ramp...Brake imbalance and excessive oil leak I did a full rebuild service on this Connect braking system and when I take it to work and roller brake test it, if I see brake imbalances or rate of increase/decrease problems on either axle, I throw a spanner at the damn rollers LOL
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Post by Rhubarb on Oct 18, 2014 22:22:24 GMT 1
Nope, it's still on the mot ramp...Brake imbalance and excessive oil leak I did a full rebuild service on this Connect braking system and when I take it to work and roller brake test it, if I see brake imbalances or rate of increase/decrease problems on either axle, I throw a spanner at the damn rollers LOL Jam the rollers and get the tap tap box out
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Post by Deleted on Oct 18, 2014 22:24:22 GMT 1
I did a full rebuild service on this Connect braking system and when I take it to work and roller brake test it, if I see brake imbalances or rate of increase/decrease problems on either axle, I throw a spanner at the damn rollers LOL Jam the rollers and get the tap tap box out Knowing my luck the damn thing will fall over in the foot well LOL
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Post by Karl on Oct 18, 2014 22:27:26 GMT 1
I would say it's possible, but can't confirm this as I don't work on commercial stuff sorry
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Post by Monkey on Oct 19, 2014 12:26:50 GMT 1
When the box is ready to come out, you need to lever the engine forward using a big bar jammed in the cat bracket as far as you can to get the box out between engine and subframe.
Just like a MK1 focus 1.8 diesel.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2014 20:13:09 GMT 1
When the box is ready to come out, you need to lever the engine forward using a big bar jammed in the cat bracket as far as you can to get the box out between engine and subframe. Just like a MK1 focus 1.8 diesel. Thanks Monkey for the advice Given that I am not working on a two post ramp, and mainly working on my own using large axle stands because I absolutely hate 4 post ramps for front wheel drive vehicles, I looked at the clearance available between the differential and sub frame and have decided based on weight of gearbox and facilities available it is advisable for me to remove the sub frame. The sub frame is now off, the steering rack has been secured to the bulkhead, steering hydraulics untouched and gearbox now removed. I think being as honest with myself as I can be, the time spent to remove the gearbox has taken about 6 hours, AD say about 4.40 hrs but say engine and gearbox removal so somebody to me would have to be very fluent in the setup and very young to do it, because that time would burn me out and I would never achieve it. Tomorrow afternoon I am going to remove the clutch, flywheel, sump, oil pick up and feed, ladder frame and see what went wrong round the belhousing area. I don't like them fiddly retaining devices on the gear selector cables either that should turn anti-clockwise and release, much easier and better to just un-bolt the two 15mm nuts on the bracket on the gearbox and release the cables that way There is a sh*t load of wiring and plugs on top of the gearbox LOL, hope it all goes back ok
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Post by liam99 on Oct 19, 2014 20:13:54 GMT 1
When the box is ready to come out, you need to lever the engine forward using a big bar jammed in the cat bracket as far as you can to get the box out between engine and subframe. Just like a MK1 focus 1.8 diesel. As monkey says wedge the engine forward I use a block of wood. Edit, Abit late in posting.
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Post by Karl on Oct 19, 2014 21:17:47 GMT 1
Harry are you a mobile mechanic ?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2014 22:00:13 GMT 1
Harry are you a mobile mechanic ? I work as an NT for an employer 4.5 days a week and the remainder of the time I have my own part time business. Any minor repairs I do are mainly carried out at work on the ramp borrowing tools from the lads, but I also have my own professional equipped garage at home, no ramp but have a pit, involved jobs like this Connect are normally done at home in my garage. I do servicing and repairs for people but I don't do them at their homes etc, I do them at my home, much better equipped than at work as well
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2014 17:12:11 GMT 1
Ladder frame is off now, the rubber gasket around one of the locators is damaged but did not seem to leak from that point, however the gasket at the rear of the ladder frame was not leaking either, it turned out to be my fault for cutting corners , the rear crank seal housing was distorted due to trying to lower the ladder frame without removing the correct way, lesson learned New gasket set on the way for a rebuild now
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