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Post by reesteod on Aug 17, 2014 22:33:09 GMT 1
ok ok
im just finding it hard to believe that all of a sudden the timing has decided to "alter" itself when starting from cold.
So now with these codes am I looking at new pump/module to rectify this or could my pocket be spared being raped of a weeks wage?
thanks for everything
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Post by Monkey on Aug 17, 2014 22:50:15 GMT 1
The PCM can advance/retard the fuel pump timing depending on load, temperature etc
Is the static pump timing 100% right I.e the pin goes in nicely when crank pin fitted?
Those codes usually indicate a knackered pump but they usually don't start! If they start with those faults, I usually suspect a static timing error.
Advance timing solenoid fault will store a fault code and have lack of power, excessively noisy engine/diesel knock at all times.
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Post by reesteod on Aug 18, 2014 19:14:47 GMT 1
Thanks monkey It's starts on the button instantly every time all the time and for example today there was no diesel clatter at all!! Power wise it's a connect 0-60 about 2 min but cruises all day at 70 once it's there but it is struggling on long motorway hills (55 foot on floor in 5th) I think you have hit the nail on the head and going to get the static timing checked first then take it from there
If it's a pump the so be it being ford I take it has to be programmed but can't complain I've did 40k in it and it's never had to be fixed but I put that down to being serviced every 5k and a huge box of luck
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Post by Deleted on Aug 18, 2014 19:59:54 GMT 1
You did the belt after this problem had reared its head ,is that right ? the belt runs off the pump drive so when fitting the crank timing pin and turned to tdc no1 was the cam shaft slot lined up correctly with the head surface allowing the setting bar to be fitted if not the problem was there so you would have to slacken the cam sprocket to get it to line up , the chains are pretty good on these not seem one jumped before ,has anyone else as a matter of interest
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Post by Deleted on Aug 18, 2014 20:30:04 GMT 1
2004 1.8 TDDI 102,000 miles Hi diesel gurus I have an annoying problem which only happens on start up from cold. Basically if you can imagine for anything between 2 to 25 min the van sounds like a bag of spanners. It hunts on idle, it has a very loud diesel "rev" and sounds unlike a normal full sized transit. This happens every time you leave the van for a few hours then almost as if nothing has happened it sorts itself and runs like a dream. You can sit in the van and wait till the engine note changes then like I say it runs with no knocks, smoke and drives fine. I drive it on warm for anything up to 150 miles and no problems. Ive changed the fuel filter, oil and filter, ECT sensor, cleaned EGR and cam belt (after problem started) all with Ford parts. All pipes and hoses are clean and in good order Its as if there is a cold start valve or its overfueling on cold but could it be fuel pump? If I am reading the above correctly, and your posts thereafter, it seems to me that the fault was there before spending any time and money on the engine and thus seems a lot of money to date has been wasted. A fault code read should have been the first order of diagnosis followed by reading the live data, then diagnostic checks to the circuits of the fault codes and any circuits affected by those circuits. I'll bet the engine when running poor sounds like the engine has serious diesel knock and low power output, then when warms up a bit full power restores, if so next time it happens try shutting off the engine and re-starting to see if it clears, if it does read my previous post on this thread
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Post by Monkey on Aug 18, 2014 20:34:15 GMT 1
You did the belt after this problem had reared its head ,is that right ? the belt runs off the pump drive so when fitting the crank timing pin and turned to tdc no1 was the cam shaft slot lined up correctly with the head surface allowing the setting bar to be fitted if not the problem was there so you would have to slacken the cam sprocket to get it to line up , the chains are pretty good on these not seem one jumped before ,has anyone else as a matter of interest I think I've heard of one chain failing on a mega miler with no service history but usually bullet proof. As of 2007 ford have binned the chain for a rubber toothed belt running in engine oil which fall off left right and centre... Totally crap idea
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Post by Karl on Aug 18, 2014 20:53:36 GMT 1
You did the belt after this problem had reared its head ,is that right ? the belt runs off the pump drive so when fitting the crank timing pin and turned to tdc no1 was the cam shaft slot lined up correctly with the head surface allowing the setting bar to be fitted if not the problem was there so you would have to slacken the cam sprocket to get it to line up , the chains are pretty good on these not seem one jumped before ,has anyone else as a matter of interest I think I've heard of one chain failing on a mega miler with no service history but usually bullet proof. As of 2007 ford have binned the chain for a rubber toothed belt running in engine oil which fall off left right and centre... Totally crap idea They had to monkey To get the emission ratings down Couldn't go any further with the trusty old unit sadly and was deleted around 2010 We've not had any come in broken , but I guess that most don't know ( garages and customers ) it has a wet belt for fuel pump So just the cam belt gets replaced Then bang
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Post by reesteod on Aug 18, 2014 21:02:07 GMT 1
You did the belt after this problem had reared its head ,is that right ? the belt runs off the pump drive so when fitting the crank timing pin and turned to tdc no1 was the cam shaft slot lined up correctly with the head surface allowing the setting bar to be fitted if not the problem was there so you would have to slacken the cam sprocket to get it to line up , the chains are pretty good on these not seem one jumped before ,has anyone else as a matter of interest I think I've heard of one chain failing on a mega miler with no service history but usually bullet proof. As of 2007 ford have binned the chain for a rubber toothed belt running in engine oil which fall off left right and centre... Totally crap idea
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Post by reesteod on Aug 18, 2014 21:10:57 GMT 1
Yeah 100% correct with your lasts quotes
Tbh I haven't spent a great deal so far a cambelt kit and etc sensor all in all around £70 including filters and oil
You guys have all put me in the right direction static timing first and I'm confident that will cure it I'm not convinced it's the pump but a timing problem the timing belt that I removed I believe to be original belt as I have FSH and no record of it being changed also was ford belt could have stretched and the tensioner was off but I never mover the cam
Thanks for the info tonight
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Post by Deleted on Aug 18, 2014 21:43:26 GMT 1
Yeah 100% correct with your lasts quotes Tbh I haven't spent a great deal so far a cambelt kit and etc sensor all in all around £70 including filters and oil You guys have all put me in the right direction static timing first and I'm confident that will cure it I'm not convinced it's the pump but a timing problem the timing belt that I removed I believe to be original belt as I have FSH and no record of it being changed also was ford belt could have stretched and the tensioner was off but I never mover the cam Thanks for the info tonight Well ok but you havnt answered my questions so we dont know do we !! if the crank and cam slot lined up were is the static timing off
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Post by reesteod on Aug 19, 2014 6:45:00 GMT 1
Sorry
Yest they lined up but were very tight to get in and remove
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2014 12:41:31 GMT 1
Sorry Yest they lined up but were very tight to get in and remove OK the cam bar is often a bit tight to get in all fords are like that ,thats the reason for releasing the cam sprocket to get the cam in the proper position, the crank timing pin as you said they!! should not be tight dont know what you mean there, its inserted with a thread and the engine then turned to tdc no1 and the pin contacts the crank web ,all very simple !!
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Post by reesteod on Aug 20, 2014 21:41:56 GMT 1
Mac
Its worse!!!!
Static timing is now spot on, it was off at the cam by about half a tooth so.
1. Cam is spot on with bar going in and out (Not tight)
2. Crank is spot on with web tool inserted
3. Tension is good on the belt and tensioner stays within its mark
I had to pull the cam pulley and move it a millimetre but now everything lines up perfectly after 6 turns on the cam pulley. I put it all together and starts first time as always but is diesel banging like a good un only this time although you can hear the engine not drop and noticeable clatter disappear it still clatters a lot more than it did when revved.
Ive followed every guide and used my autodata and followed it every step but im now at the point where I know I have a good engine so either im F**ing it up somewhere???
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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2014 22:04:59 GMT 1
This is the point in time that you should walk away and take a back seat for a while, you could be missing the obvious and getting too tense about the whole thing
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2014 13:21:46 GMT 1
Mac Its worse!!!! Static timing is now spot on, it was off at the cam by about half a tooth so. 1. Cam is spot on with bar going in and out (Not tight) 2. Crank is spot on with web tool inserted 3. Tension is good on the belt and tensioner stays within its mark I had to pull the cam pulley and move it a millimetre but now everything lines up perfectly after 6 turns on the cam pulley. I put it all together and starts first time as always but is diesel banging like a good un only this time although you can hear the engine not drop and noticeable clatter disappear it still clatters a lot more than it did when revved. Ive followed every guide and used my autodata and followed it every step but im now at the point where I know I have a good engine so either im F**ing it up somewhere??? Probably good idea to leave it and do some research how the system works !!
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