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Post by natedog on Jan 16, 2014 23:37:26 GMT 1
Now the rocco is all shiny, I need to get some cavity wax over it before I can put the interior back in.
What products do people recommend for enclosed sections, like the chassis rails and sills, and do I use the same stuff inside the doors and round the inside of the rear quarter?
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Post by sorted on Jan 17, 2014 22:54:54 GMT 1
When I rebuilt the Stag I used Dinitrol as I found it penetrated better than Waxoyl, especially useful was the 360 degree head you can get for use in box sections like sills etc. Just have to make sure you clear out any drain holes once it has dried a bit. That was 8 years ago and no corrosion anywhere still. Just wondering if I should have sprayed myself with it as I look a lot rougher than 8 years ago  |
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Post by liam99 on Jan 17, 2014 23:05:51 GMT 1
We always use Hammerite waxoyl at work but its just what the local factor stocks.
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oli
Apprentice
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Post by oli on Jan 18, 2014 0:21:33 GMT 1
Not sure about normal cars, but until recently it used to be waxoyl all the way in the Landy crowd (God knows they need some help in fending off rust!) now a lot of people are suggesting Dinitrol is better. Not sure I've made up my mind yet - either is much better than nothing.
The one thing I don't like is the black waxoyl underseal. I've seen some real horrors brewing underneath it. I think you're much better using ordinary black waxoyl.
Oli
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Post by Noberator on Jan 19, 2014 12:26:54 GMT 1
Some people swear by Waxoyl some by Dinitrol suppose it's down to personnel preference. Had my old Granada Estate years ago Waxoyled and looking at getting the Cossie done this year but need to get a quote for underneath and the cavaties etc.  I'll ask my paintman what he recommends? Can't remember if back then he warmed up the Waxoyl before using it to help spread it better? |
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Post by natedog on Jan 19, 2014 23:46:25 GMT 1
i've ordered a load of dinitrol. hopefully will be here nice and quick, so i can get it done before the car gets any more rain on it.
apparently you are meant to warm it. makes it thinner so it can creep into the tiny gaps on seams better
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Post by rhyds on Jan 20, 2014 9:38:40 GMT 1
Your meant to do that with waxoyl too IIRC. Bucket of hot water is good usually
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Post by Noberator on Jan 20, 2014 9:47:02 GMT 1
Your meant to do that with waxoyl too IIRC. Bucket of hot water is good usually It was over 20 years ago that's why I wasn't sure.  Not going mad then just yet.  |
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oli
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Post by oli on Jan 20, 2014 15:43:24 GMT 1
As mentioned both need heating before use.
You seem to get much better results when the weather is warm and dry - so, not great to do it this time of year, but better than nothing. (doing it in the warm also makes an unpleasant job a little more bearable!)
I've used an old slow cooker to keep the can warm before, which worked well - seems to keep it at just the right temperature.
I found they seem to drip the stuff everywhere for the first few days afterwards, which can make a bit of a mess of the drive.
Oli
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Post by natedog on Jan 20, 2014 19:49:16 GMT 1
gravel drive, so i can just rake it in  |
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Post by sorted on Jan 20, 2014 22:25:21 GMT 1
Also as previously mentioned, once it stops dripping (which will be less time in colder weather)then make sure you clean out all the drainholes in doors, sills etc - it kind of defeats the object if they are then filled with water which can't escape! Use something soft and flexible to avoid scratching the paint off the adges of the holes - I found a cable tie worked quite well  |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 22, 2014 0:07:16 GMT 1
Glad you got Dinitrol, its infinitely better then waxoil. The 4941 dries like a solid plastic film. Its for the exterior under-body. The 3125 dries sticky and static. Its for box sections, cavities, door bottoms, windscreen scuttle, a-posts, anywhere you can shove a probe really.
Its worth warming the can up with a paint-gun in cold weather. Can't really think what pressure is needed to get it through the gun. Any compressor should shove it through.
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Post by Noberator on Jan 22, 2014 1:10:50 GMT 1
Its worth warming the can up with a paint-gun in cold weather. Can't really think what pressure is needed to get it through the gun. Any compressor should shove it through. I'll take your advice Tom on the Dinitrol when I get the Cosworth treated. Can you explain why in your experience you prefer Dinitrol to others.  |
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Post by natedog on Jan 22, 2014 9:06:33 GMT 1
I've just got the 3125 for the time being and some sills, châssis legs etc. Bought it as an aerosol kit. 4 tins guay come with spray nozzles, straws and a 1m long 360 degree fan spray lance for box sections.
From what I read, dinitrol is thinner than waxoyl when you apply it, so it will creep further into the small gaps in seams etc
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Not going mad then just yet. 
