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Post by tathan on Jan 14, 2024 17:30:39 GMT 1
Hey folks! I really didn't thought this could have happened but replacing my car's screen by a Carplay seems to have a totally fried the car. I presume something might have been pulled out without me noticing it dismounting the front panel... But it might even be a short circuit (in the worst scenario)! Looking at the Chinese car play I was going to install, I noticed with a multimeter that two cables going to the radio were touching (there was a little cut in the cable insulation, I've been able to correct it with tape, but maybe is it already too late?) The way I started to notice the issue, is that with everything wired, I was able to access the android part without any issue, but the original GLA UI wasn't showing up. The car having seated in the middle of the snow for a week, I decided to park it somewhere else and... The engine wouldn't start. It doesn't even try, turning the key just restarts the car and I don't seem to hear the engine booting. All my error signals show at the same time on the dashboard (orange and red lights, it can't detect wheels pressure... everything!) It could alsojust be a dead battery with this weather and after sitting this whole time in the car but... Shouldn't the original Mercedes UI show up if it was the case? I'd be really happy to learn that it is just a cable that has been disconnected without me noticing in the process... But can't be sure right now and don't really know where I should look for it ahah. I'm linking some pictures for those who might have ideas. Thanks in advance for any help you could give! imgur.com/a/UaqR2nhThe parts that have been opened are: The front panel The radio The glovebox Nb: If cables are disconnected inside the "radio" it's only because it was easier for me to take a picture like this and that I was trying to run the radio with its original cables, just to do a test. |
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Post by rhyds on Jan 14, 2024 21:35:31 GMT 1
Hello and welcome!
My first piece of advice would be to put all the original kit back in and see if the car works again, otherwise its very possible that the aftermarket Carplay kit, or your installation of it, has damaged something.
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Post by studabear on Jan 14, 2024 23:45:27 GMT 1
Has the battery become discharged?
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huffo
Tea Maker
Posts: 243
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Post by huffo on Jan 15, 2024 8:01:56 GMT 1
Have you checked the fuses?
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Post by OldGit on Jan 15, 2024 8:28:36 GMT 1
As said above, a discharged battery is most likely, there are no connections to the screen or MBUX that will prevent the car from starting, even if you shorted out the CAN wires, the powertrain CAN is separate and will still function, but with errors stored for 'missing messages'.
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Post by tathan on Jan 15, 2024 10:48:43 GMT 1
Hello and welcome! My first piece of advice would be to put all the original kit back in and see if the car works again, otherwise its very possible that the aftermarket Carplay kit, or your installation of it, has damaged something. Hello everyone ! First of all, thanks for your kind help! I'm gonna answer to every message in this, one sorry if I don't quote them all. As mentioned before, I tried connecting the original kit and nothing changed (I just didn't test the original screen, but it's because it was given to a friend a couple of weeks ago, as I was gonna replace mine). Checking the battery, I get 12V and - 6Amps... A bit too low maybe? For today, I'm gonna let the car charge for a couple of hours and will come back to see your messages! I wouldn't be surprised because as I did everything by night, I stayed in the car, with the lights on under the snow for a few hours. Eventho, I'm pretty happy to learn that a short circuit can't have damaged the rest of the car, even if it looks "logical", seeing all those messages on the car made me wonder about the worst ahah. Oh and by the way, I don't know how to check the fuses, I'm gonna look for it internet later today! |
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Post by chippie on Jan 15, 2024 10:54:23 GMT 1
Charge the battery overnight, not just a few hours, you’ll have a better chance of diagnosing a fault that way, rather than getting halfway through and finding the battery has let you down.
‘ Checking the battery, I get 12V and - 6Amps..’ How are you measuring/reading this?
A short circuit of the wiring is likely to blow a fuse, assuming one is present.
You need a dvm or digital volt meter with an Ohms range to test fuses, look on YouTube for examples on how to do this rather than me writing chapter and verse..
Let us know how you progress.
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Post by tathan on Jan 15, 2024 15:25:31 GMT 1
Charge the battery overnight, not just a few hours, you’ll have a better chance of diagnosing a fault that way, rather than getting halfway through and finding the battery has let you down. ‘ Checking the battery, I get 12V and - 6Amps..’ How are you measuring/reading this? A short circuit of the wiring is likely to blow a fuse, assuming one is present. You need a dvm or digital volt meter with an Ohms range to test fuses, look on YouTube for examples on how to do this rather than me writing chapter and verse.. Let us know how you progress. Hey ! Thanks for your answer. I know how to use a multimeter cause I'm an electric engineer, I just don't really know where to look for the fuses on the car, YouTube might be my best bet ahah. Will surely do when I've got a bit of free time. The values given are the ones shared by my car when clicking on phone+OK. Usually, when I turn on my engine it goes to 100 of positive amps, and if I'm not mistaken it used to give - 11 amps while in idle mode. So, this - 6amps surprises me. Eventho I don't really know if it really means something, because I never worked with cars before and got my licence pretty recently. |
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Post by Joepublic on Jan 15, 2024 16:58:22 GMT 1
Starting with a fully charged battery would be a smart move ?
As would a scan of the vehicle, as these vehicle are smarter than a fuse and turn things off if they don’t like the response it receives from various modules
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Post by remmington on Jan 16, 2024 7:40:54 GMT 1
Charge the battery overnight, not just a few hours, you’ll have a better chance of diagnosing a fault that way, rather than getting halfway through and finding the battery has let you down. ‘ Checking the battery, I get 12V and - 6Amps..’ How are you measuring/reading this? A short circuit of the wiring is likely to blow a fuse, assuming one is present. You need a dvm or digital volt meter with an Ohms range to test fuses, look on YouTube for examples on how to do this rather than me writing chapter and verse.. Let us know how you progress. Hey ! Thanks for your answer. I know how to use a multimeter cause I'm an electric engineer, I just don't really know where to look for the fuses on the car, YouTube might be my best bet ahah. Will surely do when I've got a bit of free time. The values given are the ones shared by my car when clicking on phone+OK. Usually, when I turn on my engine it goes to 100 of positive amps, and if I'm not mistaken it used to give - 11 amps while in idle mode. So, this - 6amps surprises me. Eventho I don't really know if it really means something, because I never worked with cars before and got my licence pretty recently. Sounds like you using an inductive clamp meter to measure the amps? 100amps for starter motor 11amps for running 6amps key on and not running but BCM not shut down BCM body control module. Does the 6amps drop to milliamps if you wait long enough...? (could have a short making battery flat?) |
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Post by OldGit on Jan 16, 2024 8:34:44 GMT 1
It's the display in the workshop dash menu, shows basic data from the BMS amongst other trivia. the -6A is the current draw with the key in pos.1 - it's normally higher but things like the LP fuel pump will have timed out, when it goes to +<whatever> amps, this is the current from the alternator. ETA- 100Amps seems a bit high, unless you've got lots of electrical consumers switched on, that indicates a depleted or failing starter battery... Which brings us back to the likely cause.
Pictures - 'cos everyone loves pictures... |
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Post by Rhubarb on Jan 17, 2024 15:27:09 GMT 1
It's the display in the workshop dash menu, shows basic data from the BMS amongst other trivia. the -6A is the current draw with the key in pos.1 - it's normally higher but things like the LP fuel pump will have timed out, when it goes to +<whatever> amps, this is the current from the alternator. ETA- 100Amps seems a bit high, unless you've got lots of electrical consumers switched on, that indicates a depleted or failing starter battery... Which brings us back to the likely cause. Pictures - 'cos everyone loves pictures... What does the BN mean? |
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Post by chippie on Jan 17, 2024 16:39:03 GMT 1
From my sketchy at best knowledge, BN relates to the battery condition…state of charge…the lower the number the worse it is.. Seemingly, once the battery state deteriorates, the car cuts back on user demand… Options: New battery New car Gall of 5* and a box of ( insertyourfavoritebrandofmatch) Or if you got loadsamoney, take it to MB for repair..  |
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Post by sorted on Jan 17, 2024 21:43:21 GMT 1
My guess, battery was flattened leaving doors open and stuff on while doing the work, probably on way out anyway. He’s charged it and all working, may or may not come back to tell us….
Also easy to get caught out using a basic meter to check a battery.. Wife’s gave up on her Astra in this most recent cold snap, fine one day and click click the next. But with a dvm it shows 13v- until you put any load at all on it and it dives for 9v! Needs a proper check to confirm.
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Post by OldGit on Jan 17, 2024 22:02:32 GMT 1
... Or if you got loadsamoney, take it to MB for repair.. Oi! my bonus won't earn itself y'know!  TBH, I've never used the vehicle data menu, everything is quicker & easier using Xentry or a multimeter...
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