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Post by rhyds on Sept 26, 2021 16:44:02 GMT 1
Is this EGR valve a known good unit? Or a second hand one? Second hand... all three are second hand so maybe I'm just having bad luck. I'll have a look online for a new one. Something that will be guaranteed to work. Whatever you do don't go for an ebay/factors pattern part. Get an OE GM/Opel/Vauxhall unit or one from whoever made it for them. The £50 you save in parts costs is quickly sucked up in diagnostic labour when you find yourself three EGR valve swaps in to an inexpensive Corsa... The other option is if you've a friend who's got a similar engined car to you is to check their EGR with a scantool then swap it to yours if it works.
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warps
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EGR Valve
Sept 26, 2021 17:09:37 GMT 1
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Post by warps on Sept 26, 2021 17:09:37 GMT 1
Second hand... all three are second hand so maybe I'm just having bad luck. I'll have a look online for a new one. Something that will be guaranteed to work. Whatever you do don't go for an ebay/factors pattern part. Get an OE GM/Opel/Vauxhall unit or one from whoever made it for them. The £50 you save in parts costs is quickly sucked up in diagnostic labour when you find yourself three EGR valve swaps in to an inexpensive Corsa... The other option is if you've a friend who's got a similar engined car to you is to check their EGR with a scantool then swap it to yours if it works. Would you trust anything on ebay? I have a guy I'm talking to with the same EGR as me, same part number. He claims his has been tested before being removed from car and was working with no issues... Seems a bit sus to me.
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chippie
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Post by chippie on Sept 26, 2021 17:27:50 GMT 1
Ok, Another check for you.....( disconnect the feedback wires from the egr valve to the ecu)
Take a dvm set to Ohms range...(2k or 20k I cant remember the value...) connect it to the pins on the egr valve, (that would go to the ecu for the position feed back)....
Check what the meter reads.....now transfer one lead to the signal wire.....actuate the valve so it moves open/close, the meter reading should change....does it?
As a final check,if you cant get a working egr valve, you can simulate the feed back....but how to is for another day.....you need to know what value in Ohms you read between the 5v and GND pins on the feedback part of the egr valve first....
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Post by rhyds on Sept 26, 2021 18:06:59 GMT 1
Would you trust anything on ebay? Bought some metric copper washers on there once, they seem reasonably non-rubbish. Anything more complicated gets bought from a dedicated seller with a proper returns policy.
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warps
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Post by warps on Sept 26, 2021 18:40:50 GMT 1
Ok, Another check for you.....( disconnect the feedback wires from the egr valve to the ecu) Take a dvm set to Ohms range...(2k or 20k I cant remember the value...) connect it to the pins on the egr valve, (that would go to the ecu for the position feed back).... Check what the meter reads.....now transfer one lead to the signal wire.....actuate the valve so it moves open/close, the meter reading should change....does it? As a final check,if you cant get a working egr valve, you can simulate the feed back....but how to is for another day.....you need to know what value in Ohms you read between the 5v and GND pins on the feedback part of the egr valve first.... So I completed the checks. Between the 5v reference and the signal wire there was no change in the reading when actuating the valve, and the valve can be seen moving. There was a 0.02Ω change when at 20k between the signal and negative of the same circuit. I will look at getting another valve atm, as simulating the feedback sounds like a last case plan.
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