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Post by matt2223 on Feb 7, 2021 22:27:07 GMT 1
Evening guys, what are you using for supporting engines when changing clutches? I always used to use a stand and climb a ladder to undo the box mount. I’ve just started at a new place and we aren’t allowed ladders and they aren’t very well equipped for this type of work so looking to see what you suggest.
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Post by studabear on Feb 7, 2021 23:45:10 GMT 1
Sounds like you work for the same firm as me lol.
We use the tyre ladder when we have to, not supplied a engine support, like your previous place I hold the engine up on a big stand, tbh only me that does any clutches on our spot anyway.
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remmington
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Post by remmington on Feb 8, 2021 0:47:55 GMT 1
Sounds like you work for the same firm as me lol. We use the tyre ladder when we have to, not supplied a engine support, like your previous place I hold the engine up on a big stand, tbh only me that does any clutches on our spot anyway. I got two Sealey 600kg gearbox stands - blocks of wood - plus one of the stands I have shortened/rewelded one the legs - so they go together as a pair - close enough to support the engine on one and the gearbox on another. Plus a pair of alloy 5/6 tread steps. Using an engine cross bar is just hard work - plus they are always in the way - damage inner wings. They do special support frames that bolt on the underside of the car - but you need so many adapters - these never caught on. Attachment DeletedAttachment Deleted
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remmington
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Post by remmington on Feb 8, 2021 9:48:44 GMT 1
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Post by givusaclue on Feb 8, 2021 10:47:26 GMT 1
Sounds like you work for the same firm as me lol. We use the tyre ladder when we have to, not supplied a engine support, like your previous place I hold the engine up on a big stand, tbh only me that does any clutches on our spot anyway. I got two Sealey 600kg gearbox stands - blocks of wood - plus one of the stands I have shortened/rewelded one the legs - so they go together as a pair - close enough to support the engine on one and the gearbox on another. Plus a pair of alloy 5/6 tread steps. Using an engine cross bar is just hard work - plus they are always in the way - damage inner wings. They do special support frames that bolt on the underside of the car - but you need so many adapters - these never caught on. View AttachmentView AttachmentDon't mention under support frames, makes my scalp cringe there was a post about these previously, i had an incident with one.
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remmington
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Post by remmington on Feb 8, 2021 11:12:15 GMT 1
I got two Sealey 600kg gearbox stands - blocks of wood - plus one of the stands I have shortened/rewelded one the legs - so they go together as a pair - close enough to support the engine on one and the gearbox on another. Plus a pair of alloy 5/6 tread steps. Using an engine cross bar is just hard work - plus they are always in the way - damage inner wings. They do special support frames that bolt on the underside of the car - but you need so many adapters - these never caught on. View AttachmentView AttachmentDon't mention under support frames, makes my scalp cringe there was a post about these previously, i had an incident with one. I do recall now you had a "suicide attempt" with one.
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Post by matt2223 on Feb 11, 2021 10:04:43 GMT 1
Sounds like you work for the same firm as me lol. We use the tyre ladder when we have to, not supplied a engine support, like your previous place I hold the engine up on a big stand, tbh only me that does any clutches on our spot anyway. Not sure who you work for but my lot own a lot of shops that can’t put a bulb in correctly.... I’ve been holding them up with a gearbox jack and reaching through to undo the top box mount as there’s no ladder in sight.
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Post by matt2223 on Feb 11, 2021 10:07:14 GMT 1
Sounds like you work for the same firm as me lol. We use the tyre ladder when we have to, not supplied a engine support, like your previous place I hold the engine up on a big stand, tbh only me that does any clutches on our spot anyway. I got two Sealey 600kg gearbox stands - blocks of wood - plus one of the stands I have shortened/rewelded one the legs - so they go together as a pair - close enough to support the engine on one and the gearbox on another. Plus a pair of alloy 5/6 tread steps. Using an engine cross bar is just hard work - plus they are always in the way - damage inner wings. They do special support frames that bolt on the underside of the car - but you need so many adapters - these never caught on. View AttachmentView AttachmentI like what you’ve done with the gearbox jack legs. I had seen the underbody supports but not recommend? They have a engine support but there’s so much it wouldn’t fit on correctly and would be a pain if you need to lower or raise engine whilst you’re half way out with a box and no way to get to it
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remmington
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Post by remmington on Feb 11, 2021 10:21:32 GMT 1
I got two Sealey 600kg gearbox stands - blocks of wood - plus one of the stands I have shortened/rewelded one the legs - so they go together as a pair - close enough to support the engine on one and the gearbox on another. Plus a pair of alloy 5/6 tread steps. Using an engine cross bar is just hard work - plus they are always in the way - damage inner wings. They do special support frames that bolt on the underside of the car - but you need so many adapters - these never caught on. View AttachmentView AttachmentI like what you’ve done with the gearbox jack legs. I had seen the underbody supports but not recommend? They have a engine support but there’s so much it wouldn’t fit on correctly and would be a pain if you need to lower or raise engine whilst you’re half way out with a box and no way to get to it The only thing I can add to the engine support thing is: Using gearbox jacks - you do need a wooden block with a cavity in the upper face: To miss sump mounted oil level switches. I got a 250mm x 150mm x 50mm (ish) blocks - with two bits of 3" x 2" screwed on the ends - to make a U shaped sump support. (hope I have explained this OK? - you get my drift) Attachment DeletedFew 8g screws and a handsaw - Eureka you have a sump support. If you get the width of these blocks about right - the tines on the top of the gearbox jacks dig into the blocks and then they slip - when tilting engines downwards to get gearboxes out.
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Post by matt2223 on Feb 11, 2021 10:32:05 GMT 1
I like what you’ve done with the gearbox jack legs. I had seen the underbody supports but not recommend? They have a engine support but there’s so much it wouldn’t fit on correctly and would be a pain if you need to lower or raise engine whilst you’re half way out with a box and no way to get to it The only thing I can add to the engine support thing is: Using gearbox jacks - you do need a wooden block with a cavity in the upper face: To miss sump mounted oil level switches. I got a 250mm x 150mm x 50mm (ish) blocks - with two bits of 3" x 2" screwed on the ends - to make a U shaped sump support. (hope I have explained this OK? - you get my drift) View AttachmentFew 8g screws and a handsaw - Eureka you have a sump support. If you get the width of these blocks about right - the tines on the top of the gearbox jacks dig into the blocks and then they slip - when tilting engines downwards to get gearboxes out. I’ve got blocks of wood and bits to put on top of the stand. My Main issues is getting to the gearbox mount once it’s all supported To undo it if that makes sense
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Post by valhalla on Feb 11, 2021 12:21:19 GMT 1
I use an engine cross bar (support beam over the top) because I work on my own, so I need the finesse to be able to adjust the angle of the engine with the beam screw-hooks at each eyelet of the power unit - then I can lift the vehicle on the 2-posts and work underneath with a single transmission jack.
I have looked in the past at improving my trans jack like Remmington, and I still think that modifying your own jack-head is better than messing around with cradles. I have a cradle, but it's unwieldy and never fits, and it also has a propensity to fall off the top of the jack-post.....
A double jack affair has got to be the way to go, if you must work underneath the car, but the only way to get to the transmission mount for removal is to use a support beam over the top whilst the vehicle is on the ground. Or use a ladder........
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Post by Joepublic on Feb 11, 2021 13:41:20 GMT 1
I'd imagine H&S dept of a large franchise would have a fit if any lifting gear was modified in any way? You just know another would use the modified jack on its own and tip the lot over?
We're not allowed to use ladders if the scaff tag is out of date or missing or use lifting straps if the coloured bands are out of date or missing - inspected annually.
Brunel wouldn't get any work done in 2021!
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Post by sorted on Feb 11, 2021 15:52:25 GMT 1
As a DIYer I have had good results with my 3 inch square fence post and long eyelet bolt to act as a support beam- not sure what H&S would say about that Also as the cars I work on tend to be older I often consider whether it’s easier ( for me with no ramp and on my own) to pull the engine instead...
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remmington
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Post by remmington on Feb 11, 2021 18:07:35 GMT 1
As a DIYer I have had good results with my 3 inch square fence post and long eyelet bolt to act as a support beam- not sure what H&S would say about that Also as the cars I work on tend to be older I often consider whether it’s easier ( for me with no ramp and on my own) to pull the engine instead... To be honest: I have made loads of succesful adaptions to lifting gear with wood. My workshop is full of wooden things I have made to do jobs. May I should have been a joiner not a mechanic?
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Post by voicey on Feb 11, 2021 21:31:53 GMT 1
If I need to get two transmission jacks close to each other I use a regular hydraulic type (the same as Remmington's Sealey) and one of these: www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637187996/750kg-exhaust-support-standThe base of the screw-type stand fits neatly between the legs of the hydraulic jack. No modification needed. Obviously it only allows for moving one of the jacks but most of the time it's for gearbox removal so the screw type supports the engine and the hydraulic jack is for the gearbox.
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