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Post by sorted on Sept 19, 2019 21:57:42 GMT 1
Been taking advantage of the weather to crack on some more, all been stripped to bare metal and primed now, been rubbing down primer today.
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Post by sorted on Sept 19, 2019 21:59:13 GMT 1
Doors boot and bonnet also done, been rubbing down primer today, may even get some colour on over the weekend. Attachments:
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Post by sorted on Sept 20, 2019 22:03:33 GMT 1
Took advantage of another nice weather day and got 5 coats of Triumph Sapphire blue on, light wasn’t best for the pics but you can get the idea. Attachments:
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Post by Noberator on Sept 20, 2019 22:34:05 GMT 1
Took advantage of another nice weather day and got 5 coats of Triumph Sapphire blue on, light wasn’t best for the pics but you can get the idea. Looks nice in it's blue colour.
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Post by valhalla on Sept 20, 2019 23:31:04 GMT 1
Looks nice in it's blue colour. It just needs a white cross on the bonnet!!
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Post by valhalla on Sept 21, 2019 22:59:49 GMT 1
Took advantage of another nice weather day and got 5 coats of Triumph Sapphire blue on, light wasn’t best for the pics but you can get the idea. I think that the Triumph Saffire Blue is close to the Landrover Buckingham Blue. I might have to paint my Defender in this colour (it was contemporary with its build-date of around 1998) when I finally take it off the road at the end of this year to give a major overhaul and new chassis. The current colour is a metallic blue - the name escapes me, but I think it is Cairns Blue - which is an absolutely gorgeous colour that many of the "posher" 300Tdi's got around that time. However, there is little chance of me being able to respray a metallic with the facilities and equipment that I have, so I will need to weigh-up my options.
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Post by sorted on Sept 23, 2019 0:37:09 GMT 1
I would say it depends what paint you use Valhalla. If spraying cellulose- which is all I was prepared to risk at home as although my compressor is 14cfm so is decent for DIY it can’t support a spray gun and air fed mask- I have had excellent results with metallics using very basic gear. In my experience it goes on wetter compared to solid colour so you have to move the gun a bit quicker, but I have had such a good gun finish that just a little buffing got it there. I think the high lacquer content of celly metallics helps it flow and minimises orange peel, although you have to be brave and take it right to the point of running / sagging without it actually doing so. The Stag by contrast looks OK with a gun finish- much better than what was on it before- but it will need a flat down with 2000 and then buffing up.
Mind you that could be the product of me not having done a big spray job for around 30 years I realised yesterday!
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Post by sorted on Oct 15, 2019 22:23:55 GMT 1
Paint is wet sanded, buffed and polished. It’s not perfect, but pretty good for a home job I think. So I’ve started bolting on all these parts I spent ages sorting out many months ago. Attachments:
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Post by sorted on Oct 15, 2019 22:30:05 GMT 1
And reached a milestone today where it’s back on its wheels again. Albeit sitting stupidly high as there’s minimal weight on it still! Attachments:
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Post by sorted on Jan 7, 2020 22:48:10 GMT 1
Right with Christmas, visitors and clearing up all done I am allowed back in the garage again! First job was wiring, I had noticed several suspicious bulges in the non- standard loom tape on removal and these turned out to be where previous “restorers” had melted the loom when welding. Lots of bodged twist and tape repairs, I’m quite surprised I never had electrical gremlins on this, or worse.....Anyway after lots of work with soldering iron and heat shrink I have some decent quality repairs and all the looms rewrapped in proper loom tape.
Pretty typical was what I found going down the column which I had previously just removed in one bit, but stripped to refurbish before refitting with new bushes etc. The column lock should be secured with 4 shear bolts, it had one loose screw in it. Lock works properly now! And the ignition switch electrical part had been replaced with one where the loom didn’t quite match- best guess is from a 2000/2500 model. Their answer was to force the second loom down the narrow channel where the tilt and slide mechanism is and do a cut and shut on the connector using terrible crimps which had started to melt. See first pic- some of those chopped leads were live with ignition on. I de-pinned the connector and soldered things back on to end up with the second pic - at the top of this pic you can see the redundant wires I removed.
All good until I came to clean fuel tank. This sits inside the boot so should have been fine, but no it had been sat on a piece of carpet felt and the perished boot lid seal had allowed water in so the tank lived in a puddle. Now trying to find someone local who can do tank repairs, annoying as this will be the very first job I have subbed out on this rebuild. Although in fairness the radiator will have to go the same way for a recore.
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Post by Dragon on Jan 7, 2020 23:13:46 GMT 1
Nice to see the "Bodge it and scarper wiring repairs" are still alive and well roaming the country side
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Post by sorted on May 20, 2020 21:11:36 GMT 1
Thought I’d move the updates back to this thread after the core plug woes thread in mechanical. I left that thread with the steering rack removed to find out why it was only assisted when turning left. I rigged up a compressed air feed on the bench and was able to recreate the issue. And squirt a fair bit of hydraulic fluid up the wall..... Removing the distribution pipes from the valve and applying pressure directly proved that the rack moved fine like that with no leaks, narrowing it down to the control valve, confusing as I only replaced the top seal on that. But on fully stripping it I found the roll pin that secures the torsion bar to the actual pinion at the bottom was broken, meaning the valve holes did not align properly. It’s only a standard pin and I found one in my stash and felt pleased with myself. Tonight saw it all back together, topped off with fluid and started it up. Turns out I was far too optimistic- the pressure is now even both ways but that’s because there is no assistance at all So out came the rack again- getting quite quick at that now- and as soon as I removed the control valve again I knew what I had done. Feeling rather stupid as I fitted the 2 halves of the valve back together 180 degrees out, so the feed holes faced the blank shaft! So it’s back together again and hopefully it will go back in for the third time tomorrow with more success.
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Post by valhalla on May 20, 2020 23:00:09 GMT 1
Good luck! As you say, you are probably getting quite good at this now, so you may become the "go-to" person for Stag steering rack removals and overhauls........
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Post by sorted on May 22, 2020 21:45:51 GMT 1
Success! Steering works fine, got all the last bits back on (bonnet, grill etc) and a couple of runs up and down the drive were positive.
Couple of bits left only now, firstly tracking- need to make up a measuring device first- and final bleed of the brakes. Don’t know what it is on that but I have never been able to get it perfect with a pressure bleeder yet a quick run round the old fashioned way sees a great pedal. So Mrs Sorted will be on pedal duty tomorrow.
Oh and find the great condition steering wheel I got on eBay and put somewhere safe, convinced I would remember where that was......
And swap needles and jets in the Edelbrock carb to lean it off a bit.
And set up the headlights - then MOT.
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Post by Joepublic on May 22, 2020 23:24:15 GMT 1
We need a video of the engine running
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