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Post by studabear on Oct 29, 2018 21:08:56 GMT 1
Our Focus ST is having some welding done next weekend to the outer sill at the front. The bottom of the front wing has rotten away too so this must be a damp trap behind the side skirt.
I've bought a new wing to cut the bottom off to make a repair panel and all being well the repair will then be hidden by the side skirt once refitted. On the actual sill my mate will be cutting the tot out properly and repairing it rather than patching over the rust.
Should I inject all the inner sills with wax oil while the skirt is off?
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remmington
Apprentice
Owns Spark Eroder
Posts: 4,974
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Post by remmington on Oct 29, 2018 21:18:13 GMT 1
Wax oil is OK if the vehicle is newish and you are preventing rust.
But if have a rusty car - it is a pig to work round (fire risk) if you have repair it again with a welder.
Cutting rust out - actually slicing it back with a cutting disc to good metal - refinishing both sides of the repair - if possible with "seam sealer" is the plan!
Oh... I had my first go with a MIG brazing pulse set last week. Super quick process (wire to expensive for general use thou).
Done plenty of TIG brazing with a DC set in Argon in the past.
Been researching pulse MIG welding - sort of spray transfer at lower volts-amps.
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Post by studabear on Oct 29, 2018 21:36:23 GMT 1
The car is a 2006 model, looks to be solid everywhere else.
I can't imagine anyway to get seam sealer on the inside of the repair hence my thoughts on wax oil or some other type if treatment.
(I just happen to have a gallon of clear in the garage and I'm sure I have a proper injecting gun too)
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Post by Karl on Oct 30, 2018 22:05:22 GMT 1
What ever you do don’t use black underseal type products
It will accelerate corrosion by trapping moisture . And hide any visual evidence until it’s to late
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Post by Karl on Oct 30, 2018 22:07:07 GMT 1
Cars are generally much better protected today. used to spray engine oil under my old bangers to try and hold them together for a little longer.
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Post by studabear on Oct 30, 2018 22:25:21 GMT 1
Waxoyl it will probably be then. (Clear)
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Post by Karl on Oct 30, 2018 22:38:25 GMT 1
Wax oil is OK if the vehicle is newish and you are preventing rust. But if have a rusty car - it is a pig to work round (fire risk) if you have repair it again with a welder. Cutting rust out - actually slicing it back with a cutting disc to good metal - refinishing both sides of the repair - if possible with "seam sealer" is the plan! Oh... I had my first go with a MIG brazing pulse set last week. Super quick process (wire to expensive for general use thou). Done plenty of TIG brazing with a DC set in Argon in the past. Been researching pulse MIG welding - sort of spray transfer at lower volts-amps. What are your thoughts on arc or stick welding Remminington? Been watching a few welding guys on YouTube. and apparently a entry level/basic arc welder is better overall vs a basic mig Less moving parts etc. Used to have a cobra or similar named home type mig welder years ago. From are local britool dealer. who’s long gone. Left it at my parents garage. Which resulted in it deteriorating. And being thrown out Whilst I have no need for a welder for day to day work. Would like to give some other welders a play with. We have a mid sized mig at work Which I use rarely from time to time |
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Post by valhalla on Oct 30, 2018 22:57:31 GMT 1
Waxoyl it will probably be then. (Clear) I would certainly go with the mantra that it's better to get the repair done really, then really well treated with "Galvafroid" or equivalent, then fill the apertures and voids with Waxoyl at the end.
I have had decades of trouble working around sills that have been Waxoyled over rust, and they are no fun whatsoever on a classic Rover like a P6 - the flames travel along the seam sealant on the inner/middle sill joints on these really well, and go straight up behind the rear seat backrests that you haven't removed beforehand as a precaution......  but the starting-point is always the sill full of wax skinning that is impossible to clean out properly before the work starts. |
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Post by studabear on Oct 30, 2018 23:31:16 GMT 1
I just can't think how to get any paint or protection on the back of the repair once it's welds in place?
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remmington
Apprentice
Owns Spark Eroder
Posts: 4,974
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Post by remmington on Oct 31, 2018 8:01:43 GMT 1
Wax oil is OK if the vehicle is newish and you are preventing rust. But if have a rusty car - it is a pig to work round (fire risk) if you have repair it again with a welder. Cutting rust out - actually slicing it back with a cutting disc to good metal - refinishing both sides of the repair - if possible with "seam sealer" is the plan! Oh... I had my first go with a MIG brazing pulse set last week. Super quick process (wire to expensive for general use thou). Done plenty of TIG brazing with a DC set in Argon in the past. Been researching pulse MIG welding - sort of spray transfer at lower volts-amps. What are your thoughts on arc or stick welding Remminington? Been watching a few welding guys on YouTube. and apparently a entry level/basic arc welder is better overall vs a basic mig Less moving parts etc. Used to have a cobra or similar named home type mig welder years ago. From are local britool dealer. who’s long gone. Left it at my parents garage. Which resulted in it deteriorating. And being thrown out Whilst I have no need for a welder for day to day work. Would like to give some other welders a play with. We have a mid sized mig at work Which I use rarely from time to time I do allot of arc stick MMA welding. It is not easy to do in position. Mig is easier for sure. I hardly ever use 6013 welding rods - most of my MMA welding is done in stainless 312 - plus some 7018s. Wanna have a play - get a little inverter DC and a bottle of argon and do some TIG welding on mild steel. |
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Post by belle427 on Nov 4, 2018 9:10:03 GMT 1
Waxoyl it will probably be then. (Clear) There are much better products around these days, I’ve used this before. www.dinitroldirect.com/ |
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Post by studabear on Nov 4, 2018 9:24:56 GMT 1
I do have some dinitrol. In a aerosol. I also have s full gallon of waxoyl sat there.
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Post by belle427 on Nov 4, 2018 10:02:48 GMT 1
I do have some dinitrol. In a aerosol. I also have s full gallon of waxoyl sat there. Waxoyl always seemed to dry up and flake off too easily, maybe it just needs re applying every year. |
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Post by chippie on Nov 4, 2018 16:09:07 GMT 1
Waxoyl it will probably be then. (Clear) I would certainly go with the mantra that it's better to get the repair done really, then really well treated with "Galvafroid" or equivalent, then fill the apertures and voids with Waxoyl at the end. Galvafroid gets my vote too...We used to use it ll the time when I was at ICI.....anything and everything was painted with it to try and make it last...( paintwise we used Hammerite....) Is it still obtainable? |
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Post by chippie on Nov 4, 2018 16:11:11 GMT 1
I do have some dinitrol. In a aerosol. I also have s full gallon of waxoyl sat there. Waxoyl always seemed to dry up and flake off too easily, maybe it just needs re applying every year. A vigorour wire brushing or better still shot blast finish helps a lot.... I've applied it my Passat since new, not been a problem aftwr five years...or are we talking longer? |
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but the starting-point is always the sill full of wax skinning that is impossible to clean out properly before the work starts.