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Post by valhalla on May 23, 2018 23:56:21 GMT 1
No head lifting-off today, but the replacement one turned-up. No transport damage, but a slight scratch or two on the one side from careless removal off the old engine. Nothing that won't clean-up, and nothing that is mission-critical, but a bit annoying all the same. Fortunately the fire-ring clamping areas are pretty good, just a very slight mark on cyl.4 to check carefully when I come to clean the head up for fitting.
I now have all the tools to do the job, the LT Haynes manual for the 2.5TDI is on the sofa, so just waiting to get the old head off and receive the head gasket and bolts, plus the new pulleys, from another supplier before I can get on and start repairing this car.
It's all having to be done out in the open at the moment, because someone turned-up with a RangeRover Sport electrical issue. Except it probably isn't an electrical fix, it's got a cream-crackered EAS system. Now, why the hell did I have to pick the phone up on Monday before it got the the answerphone bit about being closed until 2019?
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Post by valhalla on May 25, 2018 0:03:15 GMT 1
All of the parts have come today, so I finally got to trial all the new pulleys, etc. on the reworked crankshaft nose.
First big panic was when I saw the parcel from an un-named source somewhere in the Midlands area. I really hope that whoever packaged the head gasket does not reproduce, ever. It's the worst case I have ever seen, and only by sheer luck was I able to separate gasket from packaging, gentle examine the poor thing, and confirm that it was OK;
Honestly, that is a standard packaged Elring head gasket, stuck in a plastic mailbag, then taped to the outside of three separate boxes in another mailbag, each of those boxes containing a heavy pulley, or 12 head-bolts.....Thank heavens this wasn't sent at Christmas, and thank heavens that the local Royal Mail staff know the sort of things I order, so must have handled this like eggs!!!
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Post by valhalla on May 25, 2018 0:28:59 GMT 1
I finally got the head off the engine this evening, and thankfully everything has turned-out OK. The face cleaned-up fine, minimal debris from the clashing of valves to pistons (just impacted carbon shards), and the pistons all seem to be standing-up by the same height - I need to do the DTI checks tomorrow, now that the block face is cleaned for the mag-stand;
The replacement cylinder head has also had the benefit of a careful scrape and wash. It was a little more problematic, but the scratches I was worried about yesterday have come to nothing. Only one crosses any sort of gasket sealing path (the deep one, unfortunately) and the other two are much shallower and stop just short of being important. The region of the head affected by this clumsiness has been gently rubbed back with a very fine whetstone, to remove the bulk of the scratch upstands either side of the grooves, then the gasket scraper blade rubbed across the scratches again to polish the upstands down to flush ;
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Post by valhalla on May 25, 2018 0:42:28 GMT 1
What I was then able to do was to fill the upper two scratches that were in the region of the coolant port on cyl.4 manifolds side, by mixing some standard JB Weld and smoothing it across the localized head-face with the gasket scraper blade. All I have to do tomorrow is stone this area back again, and I ought to be good to go with this replacement head. I'll probably do all the other cleaning around the manifolds porting and injector bores, wash the whole lot down, then leave the camshaft lip seals until the head is down and bolted;
The final job this evening was to check the work I had done on the crank-nose with my whetstone. I set-up the new timing pulley and TV damper pulley, clamped the latter down to the end of the crank with the old bolt, then used a slave stud to confirm the runout at the same time as confirming that the timing pulley was not (now) fouling the oil pump housing;
This was when I lost about 2kilos in a couple of seconds in my trousers. The runout was appalling, and I was kicking myself for making a shoddy job of the refinishing of the crank. To be sure of my measurements, I Tippex'd the low-spot on the runout to the rear of the pulley V's, then pulled the pulley back off the engine. That was when I noticed that the Tippex mark was coincident to the dynamic balancing holes drilled in the back of this unit.....and put 2 & 2 together.
A check with a straight edge and depth gauge across the crank-bearing-face of the TV damper was to show that almost all the runout was in the pulley itself, hence the dynamic balancing holes to try to compensate. In fairness, it is a Vaico pattern part.... and I restored my decorum by calling it a day at that stage. If push comes to shove, and I find I have issues in the future with vibration or belt-wear. I can always fit another TV damper from another source, whereas the thought of sorting-out the crank again......
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Post by valhalla on May 25, 2018 23:58:13 GMT 1
Got the cylinder head fully cleaned-up today, and it is now torqued-down on the block.
All the piston stand-ups were plausible; the difference was less than my measurement error with the DTI and magnetic stand on the block-face, so I'm happy.
I had a setback when I came to take the timing-end cam pulley off tonight; the new Laser general-purpose camwheel holding tool is rubbish for this sort of thing, so I resorted to making my own tool, which took an age to cool-down after the welding, so a local Passat got the benefit of my ramps this evening!
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Post by valhalla on May 27, 2018 0:36:30 GMT 1
New cam-holding tool worked a treat this evening. Unfortunately, I then had 30mins of struggle to get the cam pulley itself off the taper-joint to the camshaft. In the end, I had to resort to dismantling the environmental box around the ECU on the offside inner wing, removing the ECU itself off the built-in plug (which I really,really didn't want to have to move - these Volvos are a bit notorious for failing the terminals on this block), then using a decent puller through the sprocket holes and against the loose pulley-fixing bolt to free it off. It went with a bang, straight into the knuckles on my left hand...
Hopefully I can get the main timing belt and covers all fitted and timed tomorrow.
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Post by valhalla on May 28, 2018 23:29:47 GMT 1
Status as of this evening is that the main timing is set (bang-on) and I just need to sort out the problem with the TV-damper washer before doing the pump belt and pulleys.
The injectors went in with new washers today, all the glowplugs are fitted, vacuum-pump (nightmare on lower fixing) is now fitted, and I have got all the fuel injector pipes and new spill-return tubing (made up from a decent coil of diesel spill line that hasn't been moving as fast as I hoped over the last couple of years of diagnostic jobs on diesels), so the front of the engine is more-or-less built-up.
Manifolds tomorrow, if I get any time to play - I need to get a neighbour's Rover 25 Streetwize thing on the 2-poster to investigate a "clanging noise" that is not engine/driveline/suspension, and doesn't happen when I drive it!!!
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Post by valhalla on May 30, 2018 23:36:03 GMT 1
All the manifolds are on now, but before I fitted the inlet, I decided to check all the internal porting for excess carbon deposits. Which was just as well, as lumps of compacted soot were blown-free when I forced 125psi of air-line into the ports. Unfortunately, having got very enthusiastic about cleaning the whole manifold thoroughly, I managed to conserve all the soot that came out (lumps and clouds of dust) by acquiring it all inside my T-shirt, so everything I touched this evening has black streaks all over it. Including the bath.
Still, you have to suffer for your art!
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Post by valhalla on Jun 1, 2018 22:58:52 GMT 1
Critical parts have turned-up this afternoon. Special diamond-encrusted washer is the main bit, and seems to be the right thing; the encrusting does make it very high-friction between the fingertips.
Hopefully get some progress after the (temporary) interuption of Range Rover Sport has passed.
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Post by valhalla on Jun 4, 2018 0:39:55 GMT 1
I had a late start today, as Mrs. Valhalla's shop has thrown-up a "bit of a refrigeration problem" this weekend, just after a big delivery of frozen goods on Friday afternoon. Fingers crossed, I might have rescued the main display freezer from death......
Can you tell what I have been up-to today?
Yes, the TV-damper came back off (remarkably easy, I hesitate to report) for an inspection of the clamping-face to the crankshaft nose, before having everything re-cleaned and refitted with the new diamond-faced washer, plus another new crank-bolt. Then the same fun and games getting 160Nm + 180degs onto the bolt. Fortunately, after everything was torqued and settled, the timing had not moved to any measurable degree, so I was then able to fit the HP pump drive system to the other end of the engine;
After a few hours of procrastination and general faffing to get all the "little things" just right (vacuum pipework was all deteriorated, etc. etc.), I then vacuum-filled the coolant circuits (perfect vacuum hold to 0.85BAR depression for 10minutes) and got the battery onto the car (reconditioned for the last week on one of the CTEK's).
To say she fired-up on the first turn of the key would be a complete lie, but after two extended cranks, she picked-up on various cylinders to fire and run properly on the third turn, having purged all the FIE system air in the pump and pipes (I had the access screw out the back of the pump for timing purposes). She currently runs like a sack of spuds, as if there is a persistent misfire on one cylinder, but as the engine MSA15.7 system has just been through a major trauma, and is running in limp-home (limited to 1500rpm) I'm not too worried. I will probably have a look with the Autocom CDP+ system tomorrow to see what I can do to get the HP pump dynamically timed to perfection, otherwise it will have to be a job for the VOL-FCR software next week.
I haven't worked on this model of Volvo for 4years now, so cannot remember exactly just how bad it should/can be!!!
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Post by studabear on Jun 4, 2018 20:58:51 GMT 1
Looking good, you certainly know your stuff.
Working where I do its easy to lose track of doing big jobs like this. (Not that its a bad thing at times)
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Post by valhalla on Jun 4, 2018 23:44:12 GMT 1
Well, I have an admission.......
I put the Autocom CDP+ system onto the car this lunchtime, having sorted-out Mrs. Valhalla's freezer for a few weeks yet. Straight away, two faults came up on the MSA15.7 scan; one related to a faulty shut-off solenoid, another related to the timing-sleeve circuit continuity.
"I wonder if I left the 3-pin plug off the front of the HP pump?" I thought to myself. "That would have been a typically stupid thing to do!"
Lo and behold, 3-pin plug is disconnected. What is amazing is that the Bosch pump on this car is able to run at all with the shutoff solenoid disconnected, so I suspect a "self-test" of the Bosch control system with throw that up as a fault in the future (The MSA controllers normally shut the electronic pumps down on the fuel volume control, the shutoff solenoid is just there as a belt-and-braces).
The car runs much better now!!!
I did a fine-tune of the FIE timing belt and idlers/tensioner this evening, and amazingly it was already fairly close to the correct spec. I had set the FIE pump to 0.55mm lift on the plunger, then locked it there. Overall, the pump was retarded by 0.8degrees CA when I dynamically checked it, but is bang-on now.
I think the vibration is coming through a very nasty bodge the garage has done to the rear silencer hanger. That's the next job, I think!
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Post by valhalla on Jun 4, 2018 23:53:57 GMT 1
For the fuel temperature, I managed to get the pump dynamic timing almost smack between the lines. There seems to be a consensus out there on YouTube that this should be 0.0 degrees exactly, but I think they are wrong, as the technical information I can find seems to back-up the instructions on-screen from the Autocom people.
It's amazing what this toolset can still do these days, considering so many old cars are dropped by the likes of Autel. It certainly justifies itself on my own fleet....
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Post by valhalla on Jun 7, 2018 0:12:04 GMT 1
I managed to get a little bit done on this project tonight. Not much, but it all goes in the right direction (just);
Based on the appalling quality of workmanship I have found so far, I assumed that the servicing was pretty shoddy as well, so I changed the oil, oil filter, and air filter to be on the safe side. I wasn't wrong, the air filter itself was choked to almost no-flow, the housing underneath it full of accumulated silt.
Having smashed the N/S indicator lens on moving the car in and out of the workshop last week, I replaced both front indicators with new shells (so that they match from side-to-side), but beforehand I swapped the O/S headlamp glass with a good used one, as the one on the car has a stone-chip through it. The reflectors on these are a bit delicate, so it makes a lot of sense to catch any perforation in time, and I cannot justify buying a new headlamp for this car yet.
After getting all the work done around the lamp clusters finished, I prepared the front of the car for the front bumper assembly to be replaced. This involved spraying a liberal coat of wax inside the frame longitudinals (where the bumper bolts mount to) and any bodywork that is covered by the front armature assembly. Hopefully this will help to get the bumper off a bit easier in the future, as the threads were dry and rusty when I came to recover this car three weeks ago.
I had previously removed the intercooler return pipe to the inlet manifold (again) to make a repair to the stub-pipe that feeds pressurised air to the solenoid valve for the turbo wastegate control. The stub was rattling loose, as is quite common on these, so meaning pressurised air would have been leaking to atmosphere when the turbo was boosting. I just cleaned around the joint with brake solvent, dried everything off, then got my favourite JB Weld epoxy liberally spread around the joint. After 24hours setting, it seems solid enough, so it all went back on again.
One final niggle for tonight was the radio code. Originally I couldn't find it anywhere in the paperwork, but after a bit more searching, I found it written-down on the back of a business card in the passenger knee-roll cubby, so we have Cuillin FM blaring-out again!!
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Post by valhalla on Jun 7, 2018 23:24:49 GMT 1
I finished reassembling all the undertrays and panelwork this evening. Every time I thought I had finished, I looked around to find another bit of bodywork lurking in the workshop! I don't remember taking all this off, but then again it was on the vendor's front drive.....
She drives reasonably well, and the vibration I can feel at idle seems to disappear when she is out on the road, in-gear. To be honest, I cannot take her far yet, as I'm waiting for the documents to come through (subject to a separate discussion elsewhere on the forum). Overall, the engine is clean, pulls well, and starts/stops as it should. So the car lives.....
A chirp from the ancilliary drivebelt brought me back down to earth - I thought it might be a bit of wax that had got into the pulley grooves or back of the tensioner/idler pulleys. No such luck! That blinking TV-damper runout has come back to bite..... As far as I can tell by LED worklight and eye, whilst the engine is running, my original prognosis of TV-damper misassembly leading to runout is still true; the centre hub of the unit is fine (i.e. the crank is fine) but the outer mass is running-out like fury. It's not just "awkward", it's actually pretty f***ing bad......and the adjacent tensioner pulley just after the crankshaft is having to cope with a cyclic lateral switch in belt-run.
I'm going to measure the system again tomorrow (if I have time) just to be absolutely sure, but the plan right now is to order a better TV-damper kit (damper + washer + bolt) from Germany, and then send this one back with a grenade attached. I'm not in the business of moaning for the sake of it, but this unit was wrong from the word go, and it has caused me so much grief already, I'm not about to let it wreck all my work at this stage. It might have been cheap, but it's c***, and I wouldn't accept this in my day-job. I'm just glad that I have a reasonable idea of what I'm going to find tomorrow morning, and that the crank is not the cause, otherwise I'd be hitting the bottle right now!
The current system is fine to run around the place and keep the car moving, and I think (based on my recent experience) that I can swap the TV-dampers without upsetting the timing too badly - I'll probably overcheck the dynamic pump timing afterwards.
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