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Post by Karl on Jun 22, 2017 19:16:13 GMT 1
Can I ask was the replacement alternator genuine ford item ?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2017 21:00:13 GMT 1
Can I ask was the replacement alternator genuine ford item ? I've heard stories about reconditioned alternators, hence the Valeo unit fitted to this Fiesta is the OEM one, it has not been changed only the regulator. I asked the auto electrician about the regulator and he said he does not fit cheap copies, so I'll have to wait and see now.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2017 11:05:17 GMT 1
I ran the alternator on the car last night for an hour, measuring the voltage output average 12.8 to 13.2 V fully loaded, the Lin signal never glitched once, no fault found to date. The auto electrician said he found nothing wrong with the alternator! I checked the fuse location you referred to Karl, in fuse box two is seems the fuse is a 60 amp, AD say it it something like a 7.5 A, I can't find a 7.5 A fuse for the alternator! I can test this without removing it and that would disturb any faulty connection it may have!
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Post by Karl on Jun 24, 2017 12:04:29 GMT 1
Do you have a reg or vin number and I get the wiring diagram
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2017 12:36:31 GMT 1
I have not got the VIN to hand at the moment, but the reg number is W3 HDW
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Post by Karl on Jun 24, 2017 22:27:27 GMT 1
I need the original reg not personal plate
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2017 23:55:22 GMT 1
I need the original reg not personal plate Sorry didn't realise it would be a problem! MV62 VGR, VIN: WF0JXXGAJJCK88175
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Post by Trevor on Jun 25, 2017 21:27:30 GMT 1
What fault code or codes are stored? Have you ran a full scan on all modules? When they say your alternator is prefect, can they bench test these alternators using lin signals to regulate the output voltage? Most likely they just fitted new parts assuming the parts are working properly!
Most of these alternator repair company's around me cant test these properly,
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Post by Deleted on Jun 25, 2017 21:52:45 GMT 1
What fault code or codes are stored? Have you ran a full scan on all modules? When they say your alternator is prefect, can they bench test these alternators using lin signals to regulate the output voltage? Most likely they just fitted new parts assuming the parts are working properly! Most of these alternator repair company's around me cant test these properly, Thanks for your interest Trevor, The fault code recorded was a pending code U0121. Yes I checked all modules. The auto electrician has reconditioned as a specialist starters and alternators as long as I have known him, that'll be around 25 years, and the guy is about 70 years young now, it is his own business and he is well respected for what he does, although none of us are perfect. You have a good point about the Lin signal, I don't know how he checks that, I'll ask him! Using my scope on various time scales ms I have recorded the Lin signal and can't say that although I have observed the alternator both charging and none charging on the car, playing back the Lin signal I have not noticed any drop outs or glitches that would suggest that there was a fault from the PCM, however it would be interesting if I could access the data stream technical baud rate for this charging system operation, then I'd have something to compare data to!
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Post by Trevor on Jun 26, 2017 20:06:33 GMT 1
What module did you find the code in? And what is the full fault code description? or is that all the information your tool gave you?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2017 21:41:16 GMT 1
What module did you find the code in? And what is the full fault code description? or is that all the information your tool gave you? Sorry Trevor I can't remember, but if you have a VERUS that is the scanner I used to read out the code. The best I can remember the wording is; U0121 starter/generator intermittent loss of communication. These Fiesta's used to suffer from the electrical wiring chafing around the front of the engine area, however Ford started to put the wiring inside a plastic conduit tube, which has afforded added protection on these later Fords, also the mileage is very low at 12K for a 2013 car some 4 years old. At that age and mileage I would not expect any problems, Ford are reasonably quite good at what they do, unless your changing power steering hoses on the Focus for the first time lol
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Post by Trevor on Jun 26, 2017 22:30:15 GMT 1
I am getting U0120 as Lost Communication with Starter Generator Control Module !
And U0121 as Lost Communication With Electronic Brake Control Module!
Can you comfirm the exact code and wording hybrid and we will work from there?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 27, 2017 11:26:39 GMT 1
I am getting U0120 as Lost Communication with Starter Generator Control Module ! And U0121 as Lost Communication With Electronic Brake Control Module! Can you comfirm the exact code and wording hybrid and we will work from there? I'll double check any info I have this evening, however, I am confident I am correct ! Which Country are you in ?
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Post by kdmoss on Jul 23, 2020 18:44:12 GMT 1
sorry to bump a old thread. Did you ever managed to resolve your problem? I have a u0120 code.
I have replaced alternator with non genuine and no different. Just wondering if a cheap alternator might be the issue. I repaired a wiring fault between alternator lin bus and ecu near battery but still have same code when started for a few minutes.
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Post by ccss on Oct 13, 2020 10:48:36 GMT 1
I have been given the headache of investigating a none charging Ford Fiesta that appears to stop charging when the alternator is warmed up. I have conflicting information from the aftermarket suppliers and technical information I have read on the internet about vehicle batteries! The Fiesta is a 2012, 1.4 engine code SPJC. Most Smart Charging Systems I have come across on Ford vehicles have 3 small wires to the alternator, however this Ford has one LIN connection only. On the three wire system I have read test details that advise while the engine is KOEO, unplug the 3 pin plug and then start the engine, if the alternator works then its either a wiring fault or the ECM, however I am not 100% sure how to test the single wire LIN setup! I have had VERUS on it and code U0120 is logged, I have also had the scope on it and the LIN signal is there. When the alternator has been run a while the battery light illuminates, a glitch on a couple of PIDS shows up, the fault code is logged, the scope shows battery voltage all the time when the battery light is on or not, and the LIN signal never changes whether the battery light is illuminated or not. The history; About a month ago the same problem was present on this car, I concluded that the alternator had failed, the auto electrician said the regulator had failed and put a new one in. I was advised by the aftermarket suppliers that I did not need to fit a calcium type battery, I was told that the lead acid battery is the same, I questioned that ? I read on the internet that a calcium battery actually is a lead acid battery but the plates are coated, I went with the suppliers advice and put the lead acid battery type on a month a go. The alternator is going to the auto electricians tomorrow for test and if necessary repair. I am going to ask about the regulator fitted and wonder if there is or could be a compatability issue with that and the battery and ECM LIN data transmission! Does anyone know the correct test procedure to test the alternator on these cars with the single wire LIN connection please!
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