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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2014 20:33:44 GMT 1
wanting to cover the basics I thought I'd check timing (I know it's not the main issue) but got hung up with this. Dizzy is firmly stuck in the block, that typical corrosion when alley meets steel :-( Harry replied; No need to struggle and remove the distributor, if you have a timing light, a good one with an advance and retard on it, and you can get the engine to run at idle, then while the engine is idling set the timing light advance mechanism to the vehicle manufacturer ignition timing setting before top dead centre, then while the engine is idling point the timing light at the crank pulley timing marks and they should appear steady and at TDC. Run the engine up to 3000 RPM and observe the timing marks on the crank pulley, remove the vacuum line from the distributor vacuum chamber and at the same time looking at the crank pulley timing marks, observe if after disconnecting the vacuum line the timing marks retard, if they do the mechanical two state advance is working and the vacuum chamber diaphragm is in good condition. If you have access to a scope you could attach the scope to the distributor LT output terminal to the ECM and you should see a square wave pattern. If the pattern is wavy at idle then again rev the engine to 3000 RPM and observe the quality of the square wave, there should be no double vision of the square, or if it is much less this could be pointing to a worn distributor bush. I hope I have remembered that lot right , it must be over 20 years or so since I did anything like that LOL
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Joepublic
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Post by Joepublic on Oct 19, 2014 20:44:54 GMT 1
The crank pulley marks are known to be a bit hit and miss, its better to remove the green plug on the gearbox and use the marks on the flywheel (one is TDC the other is the ignition timing mark) aligning it with the pointer machined in the bellhousing.
You've also dislodged the oil temp sensor wire in that pic
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Post by eddypeck on Oct 19, 2014 22:00:31 GMT 1
Thanks guys, and yes I removed the wires to get the out of the way, :-)
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Post by natedog on Oct 19, 2014 22:58:03 GMT 1
ha ha i remember the seized dizzy game! every old vw i have owned has had chisel marks from people trying to free it off. get plenty of plusgas round it and carefully try and wiggle with with some pump pliers
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Post by eddypeck on Oct 22, 2014 13:23:21 GMT 1
Not the healthiest of sights... As it's high pressure I'd imagine if there was any kind of leak I'd know about it?
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Post by natedog on Oct 22, 2014 19:49:34 GMT 1
Don't know what pressure kjet runs at, but I'd expect a leak to be visible. Got to wonder what the inside of that pipe is like...
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Post by eddypeck on Oct 22, 2014 21:21:11 GMT 1
Don't know what pressure kjet runs at, but I'd expect a leak to be visible. Got to wonder what the inside of that pipe is like... Think it's 8 bar, might be 12? Can't remember now. I think a leak would be obvious too. It's only a casing but if it get worse it will be down to the joint.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 22, 2014 23:23:41 GMT 1
I didn't think the pressure was so high, from memory I thought the operating pressure was about 4.7 bar (70psi) but could be mistaken without checking the technical data The metering head I have also known the secondary control valves to malfunction because of internal contamination over long periods, normally affects the starting and runs rough, and sometimes when they are really bad the car won't start at all without manual help. The fuel lines are past their sell by date for me whether they are leaking or not I would be replacing those.
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Post by eddypeck on Oct 23, 2014 12:00:43 GMT 1
Well the 2nd hand WUR I bought has just arrived so I can have a go at fitting that tonight. I have a spare metering head/fuel distributor but as you an imagine I'm reluctant to disturb these fuel unions. Looks like I'll try and pick up some replacement lines next. HEL do a new Stainless kit at £120 - EEEK, but I suspect any second hand ones will be in a similar condition.
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Post by Karl on Oct 23, 2014 18:23:28 GMT 1
I didn't think the pressure was so high, from memory I thought the operating pressure was about 4.7 bar (70psi) but could be mistaken without checking the technical data The metering head I have also known the secondary control valves to malfunction because of internal contamination over long periods, normally affects the starting and runs rough, and sometimes when they are really bad the car won't start at all without manual help. The fuel lines are past their sell by date for me whether they are leaking or not I would be replacing those. Sounds like you know your stuff with these k jetronic systems harry
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Post by eddypeck on Oct 23, 2014 23:26:29 GMT 1
WUR back in business, or I hope so at least. I got a new (2nd hand) warm up regulator from a guy on the mk2 owners club Facebook page. £10 posted! It arrived today so I fitted it tonight and initial signs are good.
Fired up straight away, which wasn't an issue anyway, but kept ticking over smoothly. Took it for a quick round the block and it feels like I've got all my power back.
In the morning I'll be able to give it a proper test, from cold, as tonight it was still warm from the drive home.
If it is fixed then hopefully I'll get my mpg back. I'm used to high 30s, low 40s. But recently I've been getting low 20s.
Before packing up the tools I did the compression test with the gauge I borrowed, pleased to report equal results across all 4 pots, of about 8 bar. So hope that's right, never used one before!
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Post by eddypeck on Oct 24, 2014 13:19:16 GMT 1
I didn't think the pressure was so high, from memory I thought the operating pressure was about 4.7 bar (70psi) but could be mistaken without checking the technical data The metering head I have also known the secondary control valves to malfunction because of internal contamination over long periods, normally affects the starting and runs rough, and sometimes when they are really bad the car won't start at all without manual help. The fuel lines are past their sell by date for me whether they are leaking or not I would be replacing those. I was wrong, you were right.... "the fuel pump pressurises the fuel up to approximately 5 bar (72.5 psi)." But what I do know is it's worked! ... the new WUR fixed it, I'm back in business and after a trip up the M5 at a steady 70-80 I returned this rather healthy MPG this morning:
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Post by jmac200t on Oct 24, 2014 14:41:53 GMT 1
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Post by jmac200t on Oct 24, 2014 15:31:52 GMT 1
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Post by eddypeck on Oct 24, 2014 17:10:57 GMT 1
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