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Post by valhalla on Feb 6, 2020 0:36:23 GMT 1
Finally had a look at the noise when I got back from a remote job this evening. I had to take the Disco, as all the other vehicles were trapped behind the wet tarmac and cones....
I knew it would be a 5minute job. That is, it took me just under 5minutes to ascertain it wasn't the tensioner/pulley after all..... Having done a quick check on the viscous fan and its hub, I put the 36mm spanner across the viscous hub flats, and thought to myself, "That's not right".
Yep, siree.... The TV damper is in two very separate bits. Inner and outer are turning nicely within themselves, but the rubber coupling and damping medium is - just gone away!!! It has shuffled off its mortal coil, and left very little in the way of evidence, but if you looked very closely at the top of the bottom-hose assembly pipework, you could just see some fine black dust settled on the top of it. So what has happened is that the rubber has denatured like it always does on the West Coast, and when hammered by torsional vibrations of a 5-cyl diesel crankshaft, it has decided to take the easy way out.....under the car. There is about 90degrees free-play before the inner and outer parts collide their lugs, hence it was smoother as the engine speed increased, so the shut-off shake noise was horrendous!!
A new aftermarket unit is on order as-of this evening, as I don't think I can afford to fully imobilise the spares TD5 at this stage - the engine still runs on that - but more particularly, it probably has a TV damper that would do just the same thing after 20miles.
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Post by rhyds on Feb 6, 2020 0:40:56 GMT 1
Dangit! Hopefully it won't fight you on the way off
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Post by valhalla on Feb 6, 2020 1:10:09 GMT 1
Dangit! Hopefully it won't fight you on the way off I'm starting to bond with this car now! A few more "little surprises" like this, and the true Landrover Experience will have been attained..... I could have usefully sorted this problem out much more easily before the powertrain went back into the chassis, if I had foreseen the issue. Getting the crank-bolt out is going to be more of a challenge when there's not quite enough room to get the 1/2" rattle gun in there behind the radiator pack, otherwise access is pretty good - I may just use a breaker bar and a bit of inertia.
She does drive quite well, certainly in the light of what I have just found this evening, and overall the engine is smooth and torquey. The ZF4HP24 is a bit of a shame; it never worked well on the TD5. I'll soon learn to live with the lack of calibration refinement on shift-points and kickdown.
The tizz from the radio is beginning to grate on my ears - sometimes it's not too bad, but the BBC Radio stations seem to use a fair bit of bass to drive the distortion during normal conversations in the studio, so that's a bit annoying. What also is a minor problem is that the CD changer unit has now developed a fault, so all 6 CD's in the drawers are not working. When there was just one of the previous owner's CD's in drawer_5, it was fine, so I should be able to get this working again. I certainly need to get an AUX input sorted-out somewhere on the ICE, so that I can enjoy the full suite of ABBA off my iPod, as 6 CDs don't do the collection any justice....
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Post by valhalla on Feb 14, 2020 12:29:29 GMT 1
A quick update - finally got the pulley, and the new crank-bolt, delivered by Wednesday night, so new parts fitted by yesterday morning. All very quick and easy, except....where the blazes is my TD5 crank-retaining bar?
So, I had to fabricate yet another retaining bar from heavy angle steel (460Nm + years of being static on the old crank-bolt) in double-quick time.
The engine sounds beautiful again, which is just as well, as I had a very difficult recovery to do from the back and beyond 1hour later - a baptism of fire, so to speak. It was a nasty job with the towing A-frame and a VW Passat B5 that didn't want to castor correctly on its front axle, all in wet-road conditions with loads of mud.
All went well until the F/O/S (driver's) window decided that it was going to part company from the mechanism in the door - fortunately I realised in time and raised it immediately manually and electrically in harmony. That implies, now, that the mean-time-between-failures (MTBF) is circa 2hours of driving, or approximately 15miles distance.....Not bad, even for the Landrover Experience.....!!!!
I guessed correctly that it was just the glass-clamps at the bottom channel coming adrift from the glass (I cannot fathom why they didn't let go earlier during the resto and checks). To ensure they stay good for the rest of the life of this vehicle, I modified some VW-type screw clamps by welding some tabs to the back of two units that I rescued off the scrap-pile, then bolting them solidly to the channel last night.
What more can possibly go wrong?
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huffo
Tea Maker
Posts: 237
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Post by huffo on Feb 14, 2020 15:22:25 GMT 1
What more can possibly go wrong?
It’s a Td5, so: - Oil in the fuel injector wiring loom - Fuel pressure regulator leaking diesel - Electrical gremlins - Whatever else you least expect - Etc Oh, sorry, was that a rhetorical question!? 😄 Good luck with it. I hope it gives you long and excellent service - it certainly should after the care and attention you’ve lavished upon it.
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Post by valhalla on Feb 14, 2020 22:27:31 GMT 1
One of the things that yesterday's recovery job highlighted was how poor the torque-convertor performs under high-load, low-speed conditions with a large towing-weight (albeit just a VW Passat).
I have modified one or two of these before with the "V8" torque convertor for the 4HP24, which Ashcroft Transmissions retail. They have to modify the bolting-pattern for the drive-plate to match the front of the convertor, and that is where the "value-added" (i.e. price) comes from. It absolutely transforms the driveability of the TD5 Auto Discovery, so I might well be tempted to look into that later this Summer. The mod is supposed to get the engine revs down and allow the convertor to lock-up earlier, so using the torque of the TD5 much more to its advantage, but the unknown factor in my mind is whether that will improve the towing under the scenario I mention above.
Right now, the vehicle and towed mass can almost be stopped on a steep hill, with the engine screaming at 2500rpm, and all that torque is just going into the cooling system. That seems a recipe for towing problems this Summer.....
I have a 15mile return journey tomorrow, so I expect more issues by the evening....
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Post by rhyds on Feb 15, 2020 7:43:41 GMT 1
Glad to hear its earning its keep! I'm sure the niggles will work themselves out
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Post by valhalla on Feb 24, 2020 1:35:09 GMT 1
Glad to hear its earning its keep! I'm sure the niggles will work themselves outOne niggle wouldn't. My mean-time-between-failure of 15miles is holding true at the moment;
The washer bottle appeared to have emptied itself - I don't know how, but there was a strong smell of washer fluid several days ago. So I filled it back up to a nominal mark on the filler-neck, and remeasured it yesterday morning after standing overnight. Not much drop.... but the washers still didn't work.
So, two problems appeared now - intermittent fluid loss and no washer action.
I used the rare spell of sunshine today to diagnose the lack of washer action, and weirdly-enough, every 1way valve in the circuits had partially blocked on the ball/cup assembly. Having air-lined the whole lot through, section-by-section, full washer action has been restored.
Given the voodoo nature of Landrover faults, I'm fully expecting the washer bottle leak to have cured itself properly now.......
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huffo
Tea Maker
Posts: 237
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Post by huffo on Feb 24, 2020 16:11:43 GMT 1
When I sold my 300Tdi Discovery to a guy in Ireland, he collected and drove it to Anglesey to catch the ferry back to Dublin. When he got to Dublin on the boat and returned to the vehicle there was an ominous green puddle under it. He had a panic that his newly bought vehicle had dumped it’s coolant. Turned out to be the tube to the headlamp washer had decided to choose that moment to shear. The guy phoned me up to tell me the story! Fortunately, we both had a sense of humour, and he didn’t try to blame me...
Hope your washer bottle leak is as straightforward to find and fix!
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Post by valhalla on Feb 24, 2020 23:52:44 GMT 1
When I sold my 300Tdi Discovery to a guy in Ireland, he collected and drove it to Anglesey to catch the ferry back to Dublin. When he got to Dublin on the boat and returned to the vehicle there was an ominous green puddle under it. He had a panic that his newly bought vehicle had dumped it’s coolant. Turned out to be the tube to the headlamp washer had decided to choose that moment to shear. The guy phoned me up to tell me the story! Fortunately, we both had a sense of humour, and he didn’t try to blame me... Hope your washer bottle leak is as straightforward to find and fix! I did think about the headlamp washer tubes - they all seem a bit Heath Robinson by now on every D2 I work-on! Fortunately on this vehicle, they are easy to see and get-to, as all the undertrays and front sump-guard bar are missing behind the bumper armature. Even the clips to hold all the pipework are still in-place and working, amazing....
Strangely enough, these do all seem to be dry at every joint, but that would certainly explain an intermittent loss of all the washer-bottle contents, depending on which way the vehicle was parked overnight.
I checked the level again today, and it's fine. The first time I do a long journey, it will be empty, immediately.......
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Post by valhalla on Jul 22, 2020 0:35:35 GMT 1
Well, it has been a fair few months since I last posted about this car! What I can say, with some certainty now, is that she is earning her keep. Unbelievable in this household of Volvo's, but the Disco2 is the last-vehicle-standing for a few weeks now, and she has performed every task as good as can be expected.
Things soon stopped dropping-off the Disco by around March - probably ran out of such things! - after which it has been boringly reliable. Soon after I started using her for longer runs, I found one little "nasty" that has caught people out in the past, but which didn't faze me one bit at the time;
There is a problem on some of these earlier D2 TD5's where you can catch the sync between the ECU and the BCM just wrong, such that the imob system refuses to let the engine start. It happens when you flick the key (the TD5, like most Landrover diesels, starts instantly, and such bad habits creep-in quickly) but insufficient crank-speed is there to start, and the engine stops again before comms have properly established to the BCM. After that, "no start" unless you do one simple thing; press the UNLOCK button on the fob to force a transmission of the keycode back to the vehicle.
It's a rare thing, but I've come across this problem many times in the past. The reason I mention it is because, a) I also mentioned it to Mrs. Valhalla in March, as it occurred to me that she could have been driving the vehicle and done this to herself, so didn't want her to panic, and b) because the same Mrs. Valhalla pays no attention whatsoever to her diagnostic husband, and did, in-fact, have a "failure to proceed" last week with this......She has now learned her lesson, well one of them, which is to use the fob-buttons to force the vehicle out of an alarm condition.
She still hasn't learned to listen to me, though.....
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Post by rhyds on Jul 22, 2020 11:25:33 GMT 1
The 5AS Alarm on my Rover 45 did something similar to me once. I'd just collected it from Yorkshire and had stopped for fuel in Manchester, only for the car not to restart and bleep that the immobiliser was enabled. Having had an old metro with the earlier 3AS system I hit unlock on the remote and it fired up.
Turns out the 5AS doesn't like it when you have both keys in range of the transponder aerial by the ignition barrel, and as the car was new I still had both keys together. Once I split them it never did it again
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Post by valhalla on Jul 22, 2020 22:43:21 GMT 1
The 5AS Alarm on my Rover 45 did something similar to me once. I'd just collected it from Yorkshire and had stopped for fuel in Manchester, only for the car not to restart and bleep that the immobiliser was enabled. Having had an old metro with the earlier 3AS system I hit unlock on the remote and it fired up. Turns out the 5AS doesn't like it when you have both keys in range of the transponder aerial by the ignition barrel, and as the car was new I still had both keys together. Once I split them it never did it again Yes, and when these systems get old, they start to get more unreliable....like the little Rover 25 Streetwize that went back to its owner today. My last job before it was handed-over was to re-check the battery for the 3rd time in so many weeks, as I have been seeing a discharge on it during the tenure of the car on my patch. It turns-out that there is, now, a 115mA draw of current irrespective of the alarm state being LOCK or UNLOCK, and although I'm guessing at this stage, the alarm unit is the root cause of the discharge - just experience of just the same sort of draw on failing BBUS units with the 10AS module on Defender/Disco1.
That current parasitic drain is approx 3Ah/day, so on a 60Ah effective battery, around 3weeks would fully discharge the cells, and my experiences these last several weeks would agree almost perfectly with that. So I'm doing some research right now into repair or bypass of the alarm circuits, as the associated features are not needed by the customer up here on Skye. More's the point, she mentioned that last Autumn there was an incident one night when the alarm sounded in the middle of the night, and would not cancel until the main vehicle battery was disconnected by a neighbbour (who was also trying to sleep).
I hate all of these old Rover/Landrover alarm and imob systems, they are just nasty, and are 9/10ths of the reason why perfectly good vehicles get dumped by irate owners..
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Post by valhalla on Feb 12, 2021 1:34:31 GMT 1
Well, the vehicle has been pretty reliable since the Spring last year, but for obvious reasons, not many miles or trips have been achieved.
It has had a recurrent issue; the sunroof drains worked too well, and deposited litres of water at a time into the headlining, and then onwards down into the upholstery and carpets. So a chance half-day to myself at the end of November meant that the headlining all came out. Mostly in one piece.
The headlining still has pride-of-place on the roof of the SD1 at the back of the new barn, and has dried-out sufficiently well that I can consider repairing and reinstating it. However.....
.....it's now got to crunch time with the MoT, the first since the resto last year. And, indeed, it is crunch-time, in a very crunchy way. So this last week has been spent cutting-out sections from the backs of the sills, and the floor above them, plus the offside BC-post lower/sill, all in the name of reinstating good metal where it ought to be. Some of this is down to those leaking sunroof drains (now duly "fixed" with the nuclear option of emergency roof acrylic paint across the seals and frames on the outside, I just couldn't get the seals to work any better....) but a lot is down to having been stood around in a field for a year.
Pictures to follow, if I can get the camera to switch-on in the cold workshop.
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Post by valhalla on Mar 4, 2021 1:25:17 GMT 1
The old girl flew through her MoT last week - just a couple of advisories on the lower swivel balljoint gaiters - so the welding must have held-up to a bit of abuse for a few minutes....
One slight issue is that I might have bumped the O/S headlamp whilst working on that corner of the vehicle over the last few weeks - the captive nylon nut that the lower adjuster goes into has come adrift, or (more likely) the little plastic cup that screws to the back of the h/lamp shell has split. Either way, I'm going to have to dig through my spares drawers to find some new, fiddly bits.
The swivel balljoints are a nuisance; You are hung for a sheep as for a lamb on these bits, and only a brave man goes into this job without spare joints and collets that they fix through, all for the sake of getting to the gaiters.....
.....a job for the Summer, I think.
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