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Post by Anna Rack on May 14, 2017 20:29:46 GMT 1
These engines have been out a few years now and I wondered if they are proving to be a good engine as the age and mileage increase?
As far as performance and refinement etc are concerned they seem highly regarded.
Early reports on the engine indicated the timing belt would last the life of the engine as it runs in oil. I also seem to remember reading on this forum that it's not designed to be changed (easily) as the crankshaft bolt is mega-tight?
An article in the latest CM magazine states the cambelt should be changed at 10yrs/125k but they recommend changing at half that interval.
Spark plugs need to be the proper NGK article and in good condition to avoid higher temperatures within the cylinders which can destroy the engine.
Oil should be fully synthetic 5w/20 and they recommend changing at half the 12,500 mile interval.
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Post by Karl on May 14, 2017 21:04:07 GMT 1
Good engines but don't give you any grace if they over heat/lose their coolant
Early ones had a turbo to degas bottle go brittle and fail. Was subject to a recall
New pipe has a rubber section to reduce vibration fatigue.
Major weakness is the behind the engine front cover. coolant pump O ring seal splits . Which can either result in a leak drips or slow weeping which drys to show as stains.
If you didn't know you would mistake it for a leaking water pump
Book time is about 7 hours
I can just about get the job done now in about 9/10
Other cases I've had one where the cylinder head cracked ( exhaust manifold is integral to head and water cooled.
Don't over torque the spark plugs only 13 nm . easy to break as quite small
Beware of working on high pressure fuel circuit actually increases pressure after key off. so going for a cup of tea before disconnecting will result in greater pressure.
If injectors are removed ( need to for front cover seal )
You need to replace the seals. Come as a kit.
Think of like a diesel
If you don't you run the risk of blow by
Finally yes torque on crank pulley around 500 nm
Torque multiplier needed
Did one with my gun by never any since
Other special tools to carry out the job too
Additionally there's an thrust washer required on reassembly which isn't there from factory, diamond in crusted which stops the whole lot from slipping whilst tightening
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Post by Karl on May 14, 2017 21:06:19 GMT 1
Belt would probably go the life of the car , if serviced correctly it's 10 years/ 150,000 miles
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Post by Anna Rack on May 14, 2017 21:58:52 GMT 1
Thanks for the info, very interesting.
Other typical faults mentioned in the CM magazine are ECU faults through vibration, coil failures and the battery being an Enhanced Flooded type, can cost £200 and may need to be coded to the car.
Looking for a small car for a family member who keeps cars long-term, as I always do the maintenance so I might stick to something more conventional but I suspect most small petrol engines will be similar in time.
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french crap fanatic
Apprentice
french car specialist based in dagenham east london
Posts: 3,355
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Post by french crap fanatic on May 14, 2017 22:09:03 GMT 1
some good info there. do these have a cylinder head overheat sesnor fitted,like other ford engines?i always thought that this sensor was a brilliant idea,as it cuts the engine out,regardless of cause. i take it that this engine has direct injection? is the oil 5-20 or 0-20? is the oil filter a spin on or an insert? do these suffer from the same carbon build up problem that affects the earlier bigger engines(mainly in usa?) is the sump metal?as i saw a 16 plate mondeo the other day,and it had a plastic sump,also seemed to be a different engine from psa? i assumed it was the new ford diesel 2,0 diesel lump? i saw a customer recently,who dabbles a bit with cars,he had burnt the whole section of his arm with steam. his bmw had overheated and he had taken the cap off,hed done it many times before on older cars,but everyone else he,didnt realise that modern engines run at 110 degrees c at normal,so whats the temp when it overheats?  ??also his car dosnt have a tempreture gauge!!!! even if cars have one,it only shows 90 as normal,when in fact its 110-120 degrees. on this subject,ive many engines destroyed becos the cooling system has a small leak,this is big problem on these hotter running engines because they will the coolant boil,as it cant build up the pressure required to stop the boil,this cooks the engine!!!! if i had a modern engine running at 110 or more,i would seriously consider replacing the coolant for that special stuff which dosnt boil untill much higher temps,you can take cap of a fully hot engine and nothing happens(ive forgotten what its called) also,for example a late psa engine before the mini engine was running at these higher temps,when you get a pattern thermostat,its actually for the older engine,it will fit(its a water housing,plastic)but the temp sensor is the older green one,instead of newer brown,but fails soon and leaks cos the plastic isnt made to take the higher temperatures!!! its also the reason why the genuine one is more than twice the price of the pattern one. |
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Stilo
Apprentice
Posts: 1,536
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Post by Stilo on May 14, 2017 23:38:59 GMT 1
And they said diesels were a bad idea because of over complexity and expensive repairs...??  |
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Post by Karl on May 15, 2017 7:48:00 GMT 1
Thanks for the info, very interesting. Other typical faults mentioned in the CM magazine are ECU faults through vibration, coil failures and the battery being an Enhanced Flooded type, can cost £200 and may need to be coded to the car. Looking for a small car for a family member who keeps cars long-term, as I always do the maintenance so I might stick to something more conventional but I suspect most small petrol engines will be similar in time. Ecu fault s due to vibration is a new one on me ? Same with coil on plugs ? Yes batteries are EFB and are expensive, not coded just need to tell the car it's been replaced |
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Post by Karl on May 15, 2017 10:24:55 GMT 1
some good info there. do these have a cylinder head overheat sesnor fitted,like other ford engines?i always thought that this sensor was a brilliant idea,as it cuts the engine out,regardless of cause. i take it that this engine has direct injection? is the oil 5-20 or 0-20? is the oil filter a spin on or an insert? do these suffer from the same carbon build up problem that affects the earlier bigger engines(mainly in usa?) is the sump metal?as i saw a 16 plate mondeo the other day,and it had a plastic sump,also seemed to be a different engine from psa? i assumed it was the new ford diesel 2,0 diesel lump? i saw a customer recently,who dabbles a bit with cars,he had burnt the whole section of his arm with steam. his bmw had overheated and he had taken the cap off,hed done it many times before on older cars,but everyone else he,didnt realise that modern engines run at 110 degrees c at normal,so whats the temp when it overheats? ??also his car dosnt have a tempreture gauge!!!! even if cars have one,it only shows 90 as normal,when in fact its 110-120 degrees. on this subject,ive many engines destroyed becos the cooling system has a small leak,this is big problem on these hotter running engines because they will the coolant boil,as it cant build up the pressure required to stop the boil,this cooks the engine!!!! if i had a modern engine running at 110 or more,i would seriously consider replacing the coolant for that special stuff which dosnt boil untill much higher temps,you can take cap of a fully hot engine and nothing happens(ive forgotten what its called) also,for example a late psa engine before the mini engine was running at these higher temps,when you get a pattern thermostat,its actually for the older engine,it will fit(its a water housing,plastic)but the temp sensor is the older green one,instead of newer brown,but fails soon and leaks cos the plastic isnt made to take the higher temperatures!!! its also the reason why the genuine one is more than twice the price of the pattern one. That's the thing. Early versions up to around 15 only have an coolant temp sensor where as 15 onwards have coolant temp and CHT Hence why they were cooking themselves without any warning 5W20 Yes direct injection May carbon up in the future but not had any so far Traditional spin on metal filter (Cast iron block ) That's the stage 6 DW10F you saw Same engine goes in Peugeots Needs 0W 30 Also DV 1.5 stage 6 remember dropped the 1.4 and 1.6 are also 0W30 May or may not have an plastic sump Tells to emissions spec on vin plate if you don't know if its stage 5 or 6 |
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Post by Karl on May 15, 2017 10:25:32 GMT 1
These also have 2 thermostats to go wrong 😁
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Post by Noberator on May 15, 2017 10:47:07 GMT 1
Thanks for the info, very interesting. Other typical faults mentioned in the CM magazine are ECU faults through vibration, coil failures and the battery being an Enhanced Flooded type, can cost £200 and may need to be coded to the car. Looking for a small car for a family member who keeps cars long-term, as I always do the maintenance so I might stick to something more conventional but I suspect most small petrol engines will be similar in time. Ecu fault s due to vibration is a new one on me ? Same with coil on plugs ? not coded just need to tell the car it's been replaced Are these fitted to stop/start systems?  Technology is advancing to the point that if you don't keep up your f*cked. |
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Post by upkeep on May 15, 2017 19:26:05 GMT 1
Ecu fault s due to vibration is a new one on me ? Same with coil on plugs ? not coded just need to tell the car it's been replaced Are these fitted to stop/start systems? Technology is advancing to the point that if you don't keep up your f*cked. I think it's getting to the tipping point where the DIY Mechanic will be in a world of hurt just changing a battery because they will not have the Diagnostic tools to carry out the correct procedures for system's shut down and re-initialising. |
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Post by Karl on May 15, 2017 19:50:22 GMT 1
Ecu fault s due to vibration is a new one on me ? Same with coil on plugs ? not coded just need to tell the car it's been replaced Are these fitted to stop/start systems? Technology is advancing to the point that if you don't keep up your f*cked. Yes most cars are equipped with stop/start Actually genuinely quite reliable Just that customers need education as to its design Even the starter motors seem quite tough, replaced maybe 1 or 2 |
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Post by Noberator on May 15, 2017 20:30:05 GMT 1
Are these fitted to stop/start systems? Technology is advancing to the point that if you don't keep up your f*cked. Yes most cars are equipped with stop/start Actually genuinely quite reliable Just that customers need education as to its design Even the starter motors seem quite tough, replaced maybe 1 or 2 A family member (older than me  ) has recently bought a Ford C Max Ecoboost 15 plate. I haven't seen it yet in the flesh and it's colour is classed as brown but it looks more like a dark grey to me.  |
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Post by Anna Rack on May 16, 2017 15:40:35 GMT 1
Just got this month's CM magazine and in 'Tales from the workshop' there's a 2012 Fiesta which developed a slight misfire but didn't overheat, then ground to a halt with a seized engine. The bores were full of water and presumably damaged con-rods etc so another engine was fitted.
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Post by Anna Rack on May 16, 2017 15:43:20 GMT 1
Incidentally my wife's diesel Nissan with stop start technology tells you how much CO2 you've saved when it cuts out, and in about 2500 miles so far, it's a measly 1kg! I've read to build a Range Rover it can produce 35 tonnes!
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??also his car dosnt have a tempreture gauge!!!!
) has recently bought a Ford C Max Ecoboost 15 plate.