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Post by Rhubarb on Apr 30, 2016 23:34:52 GMT 1
Built in Thailand I think Certainly the L200 Mitsushitis are now made in Thailand, as every one I have had through in the last 5years has a Thailand VIN plate on it. I think that there are quite a lot of shared components onto the Mazda's, as the stamp appears on sensors, switches, etc. all over the vehicle. The Ranger is the same as a Mazda BT-50
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Post by rhyds on Apr 30, 2016 23:41:27 GMT 1
That age of Ranger does seem to be made of a particularly crumbly cheese rather than steel. My father had an 05 plated Ranger as a work pick-up. It managed to rot the tow bad/tube that ran across the back clean through two layers of metal and about 3"-4" across.
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Post by upkeep on May 1, 2016 11:06:50 GMT 1
Pull the diff out and weld it from the inside. I reckon that the steel left underneath all that scab is like a lace curtain; the corrosion, whilst breaching through the steel at the top, is universally bad all the way down. A local repair is unlikely to be the end of the story for this axle, and by the time I've taken the diff out, I might as well go for broke. Do you reckon a thin skin of, say 22-gauge sheet, could be beaten into what's left of the pressed pan? It's certainly worth a thought, a good idea, thanks! I have on several occasions on Motorcycle fuel tanks used lead filler does an excellent job and is easy to work.
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Post by valhalla on May 1, 2016 19:22:35 GMT 1
The photo below gives an idea of the problem, not least that the diff has special oil for the limited slip function; Any other covers for other vehicles that you could adapt with a bit of drilling and tapping? I'm looking at the Defender 90 and SeriesIII SWB rear covers - both are available off the shelf. The problem I foresee is that each has a crownwheel pressing that is more central to the diff, whereas the Ranger seems to have quite a deep pressing to the left - maybe as a result of the Limited Slip unit in there. I have a spare Series III SWB axle lying around (somewhere) so I hope to measure that tomorow.
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Post by upkeep on May 2, 2016 11:33:42 GMT 1
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Post by valhalla on Aug 19, 2016 17:46:29 GMT 1
I finally had this Ranger in last week; unbelievably, it had some oil left in the diff, almost 1.2l of the 1.9l total. What I did for the chap,in the end, was spend a lot of time on the preparation and getting the metalwork scrupulously clean, including a decent wash with Jenolite, then re-dried it all with a solvent wash, then made up a complete tube-load of the 5-minute epoxy that GSF sells and painted it into the porosity with that. As it turned-out, the diff-pan was not as bad as I had feared, and the needle descaler didn't just disappear inwards....In total there about 7 main holes, and I found out afterwards that there were exactly 8 main holes, as I had missed a massive void underneath the bottom of the casing - which became obvious after I tipped the oil back in again. Doh.....!!!!!!!!!!!!! So it all had to be cleaned back around the bottom, and a weld-repair made to give it enough metal to hang some more epoxy. I have included the shots of "during" and "after", although I still need the vehicle back to have the diff re-flushed and the new oil (now arrived) replaced back in. Attachment DeletedAttachment Deleted
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remmington
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Post by remmington on Aug 20, 2016 20:13:57 GMT 1
I would be washing down with petrol after I drained diff.
And doing it with fibreglass matting kit...
I have seen a diff like this, TIG brazed up. Really nice job, must have taken hours to overlay it thou (but a lasting repair).
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nigel
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Post by nigel on Jan 3, 2018 9:37:11 GMT 1
I had an odd job come into the workshop this evening, 3minutes after 6.00pm......... Something I have not seen for a long time is a leaking rear differential pressed-steel cover, not where the thing is part of the welded casing (rather than being a bolt-on access plate). The thing was crusty with rust, definitely not to be poked, and enevitably had rusted through on the deep pressing over the crownwheel. Has anyone got any experience dealing with this sort of problem? At one stage, you could get new (presumably pattern) covers to weld back into these sorts of differential casing. The "Rover" axles on the Series Landrovers had this sort of set-up, but that is the last time I remember seeing a solution. The guy is going to carry-on driving around with the current weep (it only seems to leak oil when the crownwheel flings the oil up inside the casing) until I decide what to do. I don't want the mess of cleaning and fibre-glassing (P40 or similar) if I can help it, not least that the whole cover looks tissue-thin, and will probably wilt under the force of an angle grinder wire cup brush. I managed to get some photos to upload tomorrow, but if anyone knows where I can obtain a new steel cover of roughly 220mm diameter and 70mm crownwheel clearance depth, I'd be much obliged!! The internet is full of "helpful" advice from Ford Ranger owners, except that they are all the other side of the Atlantic, and have bolted-on covers on bigger diffs (not like a Mazda B3000 - derived pick-up), so they're about as much use as a chocolate teapot. Hi, did you find a solution to this, my 2006 ranger has the same problem and I'm hoping to find someone who can fix it for me, i'm based on the south coast near Portsmouth
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Post by upkeep on Jan 3, 2018 9:39:56 GMT 1
Any of the above solutions I presume.
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Post by valhalla on Jan 3, 2018 23:35:12 GMT 1
Any of the above solutions I presume. Yes, indeed, I did put the solution I used in plain language above.... The fix is still working, so this is a valid method to deal with leaking covers like this.
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oli
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Post by oli on Jan 4, 2018 11:04:47 GMT 1
Neat solution.
Like you say, it's the same as the Land Rover style diff pan.
KAM who make locking diffs, do a Land Rover kit which includes a larger replacement pan to accommodate the bigger diff.
The interesting thing is that once the old pan is cut off, they GLUE the whole new pan on (welding is also an option). That must be fairly strong glue!
Oli
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Post by gavin22 on Jun 20, 2020 20:27:55 GMT 1
Hey Valhalla I know this thread is from a long time ago but I dont suppose you can remember roughly how much you charged for the work on this diff case? Also do you happen to be near Worcestershire and want to fix mine for me? 😂 any advice would be greatly appreciated!
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huffo
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Post by huffo on Jun 21, 2020 9:54:55 GMT 1
Hey Valhalla I know this thread is from a long time ago but I dont suppose you can remember roughly how much you charged for the work on this diff case? Also do you happen to be near Worcestershire and want to fix mine for me? 😂 any advice would be greatly appreciated! Valhalla might be willing to charge you for fixing it if you’d care to go and visit him on the island of Skye (Inner Hebrides).... it’d be a lovely holiday! I’d think any decent independent garage or competent DIYer ought to be able to implement the fix that Valhalla describes. I guess a proper job of it would likely take about 3hrs? Your local independent might charge £50/hr, so perhaps you’re looking at some change from £200. I’m sure you could get it done cheaper, and I’m also sure you can find someone who’ll charge more.
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Post by gavin22 on Jun 21, 2020 14:32:55 GMT 1
Yeah that maybe a tad to far me!
Thanks for the advice greatly appreciated!
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Post by valhalla on Jun 21, 2020 16:48:52 GMT 1
If you can drain the oil into a clean container first, to get the diff casing as dry as possible, then the job is easily a DIY job, and the time expended is the bulk of the cost.
Once you stop oil oozing back out of the diff-cover, it takes about 10mins to fully wash the outside of the casing down with solvents, after which you have the choice of wire-brushing the face spotlessly clean, or getting it needle-gunned. You need to remove all the rust, and after that, re-wash the face of the cover with solvents.
I would then recommend treating the face of the diff-cover with Jenolite or similar rust "killer" treatment, as that will etch the surface of the steel sufficiently that the epoxy treatment over the holes will have no choice but to stick solidly.
The painting can be done once all the epoxy is set - that could take 12hours or so if it is not "Quick Epoxy" - and that is just a paint-brush job.
The positive thing is that the rusting of the cover is unlikely to be anywhere near the filler/level oriface, therefore the important part of the cover which would be difficult to re-seal a plug afterwards will not need much attention at-all. You can see this in my "before & after" pictures bove.
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