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Post by studabear on Aug 31, 2014 17:18:41 GMT 1
Alive and kicking, let the bedding in of the rings commence.
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2014 20:24:10 GMT 1
I might have missed it but what caused it to go ,was it a bad cyl head .?
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Post by studabear on Aug 31, 2014 20:59:19 GMT 1
Could have been a few things, I didn't have the block decked when first built, kicking its head in, also tonight it turns out the fan switch is hoofed and only works when it wants to, luckily I have a over ride switch.
Its had a 18 mile trip out tonight, got a rattle from the exhaust I think, it comes and goes and the gear selector needs a tweak as 3rd gear is a bit tricky now, need to get a new set of plugs as I think the plug that got all the antifreeze is knackered as I got a couple of misfires on boost.
The exhaust has now dried out and the coolant and oil levels are all good, gonna get another couple of hundred miles in then get the millers running in oil out and get it back on the fully synthetic.
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Post by studabear on Sept 1, 2014 14:35:25 GMT 1
Found the rattle, the rear gearbox cradle bolts  the threads in the captive nuts have had it, I managed to get longer bolts through and get a nylock nut on each one, was a bit fiddly but no more noises, gear selector tweaked so 3rd gear is all good again. |
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Post by Rhubarb on Sept 20, 2014 12:31:53 GMT 1
How's this going now? Is she all run it yet?  |
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Post by studabear on Sept 20, 2014 20:27:17 GMT 1
I've only done about 35 miles, the timing belt tensioner picked up a bit of damage, possibly when the rear gearbox cradle bolts stripped, there wasn't a massive clearance between the tensioner and the mounting point, so I've just had it all in bits to replace the tensioner and modify the inner wing mount point to increase the clearance, when I taken the cam cover off to time the engine up I found slight surface corrosion on the inlet cams 2nd and 3rd cam lobes, this cleaned off easily with a very fine wire wool and oil, it was caused by some gunk within the breather pipe, likely from the head gasket failure, so all I gotta do now is clean the top breather pipes out and then clean out the oil seperator/breather and then dry it out.
Need to get some more miles on it before the tax is up, only trouble is we will have a skip on the drive on monday for a few days as we are having some building work done, so might try and get it out for a run tomorrow if i'm lucky.
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Post by studabear on Oct 6, 2014 22:15:31 GMT 1
53 miles on the engine so far, but its now sorned until April, of maybe March depending how this pay monthly tax works out.
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Post by Rhubarb on Oct 7, 2014 20:55:28 GMT 1
53 miles on the engine so far, but its now sorned until April, of maybe March depending how this pay monthly tax works out. I think it's direct debit from 1st of November. I'd be tempted to re-tax it, use for another couple of months and then go for a refund |
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Post by studabear on Oct 7, 2014 22:27:05 GMT 1
Do you think it will do it any harm sat unused covered up in the garage for 6 months? I'm trying to save a bit of money/pay some bills.
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Post by Rhubarb on Oct 17, 2014 22:07:05 GMT 1
Do you think it will do it any harm sat unused covered up in the garage for 6 months? I'm trying to save a bit of money/pay some bills. It'll be fine tucked away...I would say run it up for 20 mins now and again, but being a rebuild you don't want loads of fuel running up and down the bores  |
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Post by Noberator on Oct 17, 2014 23:05:57 GMT 1
Do you think it will do it any harm sat unused covered up in the garage for 6 months? I'm trying to save a bit of money/pay some bills. It'll be fine tucked away...I would say run it up for 20 mins now and again, but being a rebuild you don't want loads of fuel running up and down the bores Move it forwards and backwards a few times to stop flat spots on the tyres. Just check the pressures every few weeks.  |
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Post by studabear on May 4, 2015 22:32:23 GMT 1
Well its been back on the road now since start of March, nearly covered 160miles now. Took it to a show yesterday and on the way back noticed the oil pressure light on, pulled over straight away, oil level was good, checked sensor connection that was good started the engine and all sounded fine, light went out. Set off and not long after light came on, it went out after 2000rpm, so thought either ring breakdown or chance it, luckily I was only around 7 miles from home so I kept the revs so light was off and switched engine off at traffic lights. Got the car in the garage at home, let it cool down a bit, up on axle stands, fitted the sender unit I have for a new TIM electric oil pressure gauge, put the car back on the wheels, wired up the gauge and started the engine which was still warm, 50psi at idle, had it running for a minute or so, next thing the dash light comes on, gauge says 50psi and increases when revved. So a faulty oil pressure switch is the answer which I have to admit is a massive relief, new 1 ordered and I will now get the gauge properly mounted in the car along with an additional water temp gauge and either a oil temp or voltage gauge. I also have another fan switch to fit as the s2 escort turbo switch I fitted is bringing the fans on far too early. The car will be going in the bodyshop in the near future for a new front bumper (modded slightly to get more cold air through to radiator) and to have the bonnet painted and front wings, due to stone chips on the bonnets front edge. Wheels will hopefully be refurbed this month too. ![]()  |
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Post by Noberator on May 4, 2015 22:51:04 GMT 1
Well its been back on the road now since start of March, nearly covered 160miles now. Took it to a show yesterday and on the way back noticed the oil pressure light on, pulled over straight away, oil level was good, checked sensor connection that was good started the engine and all sounded fine, light went out. Set off and not long after light came on, it went out after 2000rpm, so thought either ring breakdown or chance it, luckily I was only around 7 miles from home so I kept the revs so light was off and switched engine off at traffic lights. Got the car in the garage at home, let it cool down a bit, up on axle stands, fitted the sender unit I have for a new TIM electric oil pressure gauge, put the car back on the wheels, wired up the gauge and started the engine which was still warm, 50psi at idle, had it running for a minute or so, next thing the dash light comes on, gauge says 50psi and increases when revved. So a faulty oil pressure switch is the answer which I have to admit is a massive relief, new 1 ordered and I will now get the gauge properly mounted in the car along with an additional water temp gauge and either a oil temp or voltage gauge. I also have another fan switch to fit as the s2 escort turbo switch I fitted is bringing the fans on far too early. The car will be going in the bodyshop in the near future for a new front bumper (modded slightly to get more cold air through to radiator) and to have the bonnet painted and front wings, due to stone chips on the bonnets front edge. Wheels will hopefully be refurbed this month too. ![]() I bet your ar*e twitched a little bit when the oil light came on coming home.   So is the faulty oil pressure switch an old one or a new one you fitted when rebuilding the engine?  |
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Post by studabear on May 4, 2015 22:57:16 GMT 1
Yeah it was brown trousers.
The switch was off 1 of my old cvh engines as the st170 switch had a random connector so I just fitted the first switch I found. I've ordered a sierra cosworth pressure switch as these bring the light on at 14psi iirc where as a cvh is around 7-8psi.
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Post by Noberator on May 5, 2015 13:11:52 GMT 1
Yeah it was brown trousers. The switch was off 1 of my old cvh engines as the st170 switch had a random connector so I just fitted the first switch I found. I've ordered a sierra cosworth pressure switch as these bring the light on at 14psi iirc where as a cvh is around 7-8psi. Depends which oil switch you have ordered based on the Sierra Cossie engine model old 3 door or 4 door 2WD or 4WD and engine oil grade being used. Not 100% sure on my oil pressure at tick over on my Cossie engine without checking the Workshop manual. Mine doesn't have an oil pressure gauge fitted in the vehicle. |
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the threads in the captive nuts have had it, I managed to get longer bolts through and get a nylock nut on each one, was a bit fiddly but no more noises, gear selector tweaked so 3rd gear is all good again.
