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Post by efiste2 on Mar 13, 2015 17:33:58 GMT 1
Got an new Eibach spring kit to put on our Mk6 Fiesta 1.25, it lowers the rear by 30mm and the fronts by 35mm. Any tips and heads-ups from you pro chaps. Haynes reckon its Do-able by a mere mortal like myself, so were going to give it a go, but would appreciate any input or "tricks" from the trade. Also will the standard shocks be ok to retain.
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Post by Karl on Mar 13, 2015 19:52:02 GMT 1
Rears are very straight forward. Undo shock absorber bolt
But do them one at a time and have the axle supported ie with a jack before you remove
But the fronts are another story......
The top mount nut gets very corroded , if your planning this for a week or so leave plenty of penetration fluid or diesel to soak in to the thread
In extreme cases we have had to replace the shock absorber and top mount while changing broken springs on these.
Actual removal is ok
Pinch bolt in the hub and a nut for anti roll bar link
I'd recommend you get new top mount nut.. The others can be reused but worth getting new ones
Without air gun I suspect you'll have difficulty undoing the top mount
Again you'll need spring compressor too , which can be dangerous if inexperienced
If you where close by , I'd help out
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Post by Karl on Mar 13, 2015 19:52:57 GMT 1
You may be best to remove the front struts and then take them to your local garage?
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Post by Monkey on Mar 13, 2015 20:17:24 GMT 1
Can be a ball ache!
As Karl says you may end up replacing the shock absorber and top mount!
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Post by Karl on Mar 13, 2015 20:22:33 GMT 1
And if you think the shock absorbers are 10 years old or there abouts
Lower stiffer springs can quickly kill them....
In an ideal world and for optimum handling performance you should replace spring and dampers together, how ever is this is of course more expensive...
There is nothing wrong with replacing just the springs though
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Post by studabear on Mar 13, 2015 21:17:30 GMT 1
The offside is usually by far the worst for the top nut being corroded to hell, I use a go through hollow socket set when doing these, I bought the whole set and have only ever used the 18mm but it is a big help.
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Post by Noberator on Mar 13, 2015 23:55:10 GMT 1
Just be aware that lowering the suspension may be speed bumps could be a problem as could the oil pan and exhaust system are particularly vulnerable if the vehicle were to bottom out. Also make sure thewheel/tyre combination isn't fouling the wheel arches in anyway.  |
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Post by wheelnut on Mar 14, 2015 1:51:25 GMT 1
I'm inclined to agree with Nobster and I would start by asking "why?" The car is 10 years old and it's a 1.25, so how fast do you expect to go? How many G's are you going to pull on corners? Do you mind the fillings falling out of your teeth? I think I would keep the original spec.
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Post by Karl on Mar 14, 2015 7:54:01 GMT 1
It's his sons car
The standard springs quite often snap , so it's probably a good idea
The drop isn't massive and he won't have any clearance issues on 35mm springs
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Post by Rhubarb on Mar 14, 2015 10:40:04 GMT 1
I'd be fitting some uprated shocks to go with the new springs.. The shocks won't be far off for replacement anyhow.. You could also buy new strut tops, bearings and nuts and save yourself the hassle of stripping down the old units |
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oli
Apprentice
Posts: 1,065
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Post by oli on Mar 14, 2015 10:58:49 GMT 1
Why?
Because he's young and it's almost a right of passage to do things that older people tell you not to bother doing and then laughing in another ten years at yourself because it was rather pointless but you enjoyed doing it at the time - and one of the reasons you particularly enjoyed doing it is because boring 'old' people (like you've now become ten years later) told you not to.
Just take your time and be careful with the spring compressors - one of my least favourite tools as an amateur. I also agree it might be worth taking the strut unit to a local garage - you still get some credit for most of the job then.
Good luck.
Oli
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Post by chippie on Mar 14, 2015 14:00:07 GMT 1
If you opt to go the diy route and change the springs yourself some advice.......
Clamp the strut leg in a Workmate or similar, and ensure that the top end of the strut points away from anything should the clamps slip and the spring ejects itself, I've had this happen and didn't get my hands clear!
Use three clamps, tighten them evenly, put a thick cloth over the whole thing just in case any thing goes wrong.......
Once you have the new spring in place over the damper strut and compressed, be ready with the top bearing assembly and the nut, once you've started the nut screw on tight, you're on the home run then, but still slacken the clamps evenly.....oh and make sure the bottom of the spring locates properly in the seat.....
Finally, don't forget the bump stop and the gaiter, fit them before the top bearing!!
Good luck and be safe.....
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Post by Karl on Mar 14, 2015 15:02:52 GMT 1
I'd be fitting some uprated shocks to go with the new springs.. The shocks won't be far off for replacement anyhow.. You could also buy new strut tops, bearings and nuts and save yourself the hassle of stripping down the old units And if he gets it all together, there's a good chance he won't need spring compressor with shorter springs |
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Post by efiste2 on Mar 16, 2015 1:09:20 GMT 1
Great advice as always chaps. The reason for the swap is cosmetic if anything, we have recently fitted a Zetec S Spolier and a refurbed set of the bigger Zetec S wheels simply to set it apart from the old man STYLE look with steel wheels, but the ride hieght now looks slightly strange, so to complete the sportier look, we plan to lower it a minimal amount and the 35mm drop the gen eibach kit gives us is ideal.
Its also a Dad n'Lad thing, trying to educate him on DIY spannering, knowing when to stop and leave it to the likes of you chaps!!!, solving problems and doing things properly using the correct tools etc etc. As for accelerating the wear on the shocks, we will cross that bridge when they become worn. The car had two front springs for its MOT a couple of years ago, before we owned it. A few years back we removed the struts and springs from my XR3i donor car so have used the spring compressors before, but using THREE is a good tip, better safe than sorry. Once again Chaps your expert advice is very gratefully recieved, and fear not im not proud, if its looking iffy, then I will leave it to the experts.
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Post by efiste2 on Mar 18, 2015 20:45:16 GMT 1
Springs arrived today, could you chaps just clarify that the top mount (labelled A) bolts to the underside of the wing and is the bearing allowing the strut to rotate, and the road spring is compressed between parts labelled B & C. Hence the whole strut arrangement comes out as one..... Attachment Deleted |
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