Jag x-type top hose and thermostat

[oli]

My father-in-law's 2.5 xtype has sprung a leak from the top hose/thermostat area. It's tucked down below the battery box and air box.

I've read book time is three hours but they can be awkward. It all looks very tight for space compared to old land rovers that I'm confident with. I've read anything from "not bad" to it being a real pig and not worth the bother.

What do you chaps think - am I being a bit of a wuss if I suggest he gets a garage to do it?

Oli

[Dragon]

Is this the v6 one??

If so aren't these the one's with the water pump in that area, I replaced one about 18 month's ago and from what I can remember it wasn't too bad, but the memory seems to be fading fast at the mo.

[Noberator]

Sept 26, 2014 21:52:44 GMT 1 oli said:

My father-in-law's 2.5 xtype has sprung a leak from the top hose/thermostat area. It's tucked down below the battery box and air box.

I've read book time is three hours but they can be awkward. It all looks very tight for space compared to old land rovers that I'm confident with. I've read anything from "not bad" to it being a real pig and not worth the bother.

What do you chaps think - am I being a bit of a wuss if I suggest he gets a garage to do it?

Oli

It's battery off to give you better access for starters. Oli if you want to tackle it I've got a step by step guide to help you if you fancy having a go.

[oli]

Thanks Nobster, that would be amazing!

Yeah, it's the V6 one (I know I'm old fashioned but the idea of mounting a V6 transversely just seems wrong to me)

The water pump is right beside where it's leaking and I assumed that was the problem until I managed to get my head underneath and look. That seems fine though.

I was quite relieved to see it was actually leaking as I thought it might be the head gasket when I heard it was using coolant - I'd guess that's a real pig of a job on these!

Oli

[Noberator]

Sept 27, 2014 18:48:17 GMT 1 oli said:

Thanks Nobster, that would be amazing!

Yeah, it's the V6 one (I know I'm old fashioned but the idea of mounting a V6 transversely just seems wrong to me)

The water pump is right beside where it's leaking and I assumed that was the problem until I managed to get my head underneath and look. That seems fine though.

I was quite relieved to see it was actually leaking as I thought it might be the head gasket when I heard it was using coolant - I'd guess that's a real pig of a job on these!

Oli

Oli I'm same as you much prefer V6 mounted longitudinal as opposed to transverse. Much prefer rear wheel drive (oversteer) to front wheel drive (understeer) myself.

Sorry I'm struggling to find the guide for the top hose replacement.

The top hose is from memory fiddly but doable.

I'll keep looking for you I don't give up that easy.

Just hope your Father-in-laws not i na rush that's all.

[oli]

Yeah, longitudinally mounted engines make sense to me. Viscous fan on the front (so the fan belt really is a fan belt) gearbox on the back (no need for a long gear linkage) and a diff between the rear wheels. But I'm old fashioned.

I also prefer some honest RWD oversteer and don't agree that FWD is always more forgiving - I think the lift off oversteer you get on some FWD vehicles is far more unpleasant - but that's a can of worms to open and I suppose largely historical with cars now having DSC.

Job scheduled for tomorrow. I agreed to do it after he got a rather hefty quote...before I realised it was from a main dealer!
Thanks for looking Nobster! I've managed to find a good guide on top hose/thermostat replacement -half done from underneath the vehicle (joy of joys!) it seems to gloss over disconnecting the battery though. Is there a sequence for jags to stop the alarm sounding?
I was thinking of connecting another battery using jump leads to avoid resetting the ECU whilst I take the vehicles battery out (a bit like the ones for saving battery codes, but I was worried the inevitable slight change in voltage might cause problems)

What would people advise? (Other than getting a haynes manual...which I'm doing tomorrow)

Oli

[Noberator]

Sept 28, 2014 19:58:43 GMT 1 oli said:

Yeah, longitudinally mounted engines make sense to me. Viscous fan on the front (so the fan belt really is a fan belt) gearbox on the back (no need for a long gear linkage) and a diff between the rear wheels. But I'm old fashioned.

I also prefer some honest RWD oversteer and don't agree that FWD is always more forgiving - I think the lift off oversteer you get on some FWD vehicles is far more unpleasant - but that's a can of worms to open and I suppose largely historical with cars now having DSC.

Job scheduled for tomorrow. I agreed to do it after he got a rather hefty quote...before I realised it was from a main dealer!
Thanks for looking Nobster! I've managed to find a good guide on top hose/thermostat replacement -half done from underneath the vehicle (joy of joys!) it seems to gloss over disconnecting the battery though. Is there a sequence for jags to stop the alarm sounding?
I was thinking of connecting another battery using jump leads to avoid resetting the ECU whilst I take the vehicles battery out (a bit like the ones for saving battery codes, but I was worried the inevitable slight change in voltage might cause problems)

What would people advise? (Other than getting a haynes manual...which I'm doing tomorrow)

Oli

Oli battery off is if your doing the job from above for better access. Sounds like your tackling it from underneath.

[oli]

I found a good guide if anyone's doing something similar (not sure if this is the one you meant Nobster)

www.jaghelp.com/2012/10/how-to-change-upper-radiator-hose-on.html?m=1

Update - the dealer didn't have the part in stock, which I found a bit surprising as it's shared with all the petrol x types and I think some of the others. So I'm getting it tomorrow.

I've taken the old one off. Really not too bad to be honest. After digging out some ramps (I don't need them often with my land rovers!) I managed it all from the top in the end, though they did make it easier on my back. There was only one nut that was difficult to get at and that was just mildly irritating rather than awful. A swivel ratcheting spanner would have been nice but certainly not essential.

I did wimp out with the battery and used a second one to keep the system connected, whilst I removed the original from the engine bay. I didn't fancy having to go through the rather complex ECM teaching procedure of a certain RPM in each gear for several minutes - does anyone really do this?!

Oil

[Noberator]

Sept 29, 2014 17:41:24 GMT 1 oli said:

I found a good guide if anyone's doing something similar (not sure if this is the one you meant Nobster)

www.jaghelp.com/2012/10/how-to-change-upper-radiator-hose-on.html?m=1

Update - the dealer didn't have the part in stock, which I found a bit surprising as it's shared with all the petrol x types and I think some of the others. So I'm getting it tomorrow.

I've taken the old one off. Really not too bad to be honest. After digging out some ramps (I don't need them often with my land rovers!) I managed it all from the top in the end, though they did make it easier on my back. There was only one nut that was difficult to get at and that was just mildly irritating rather than awful. A swivel ratcheting spanner would have been nice but certainly not essential.

I did wimp out with the battery and used a second one to keep the system connected, whilst I removed the original from the engine bay. I didn't fancy having to go through the rather complex ECM teaching procedure of a certain RPM in each gear for several minutes - does anyone really do this?!

Oil

Yes Oli that's the one I was thinking of.

Your last paragraph about ECM teaching Procedure your referring to the ECM to relearn fuel metering adaptive values.


You may find that link useful for the future as there is a Service Sheet for the petrol and diesel in the Maintenance tab and other stuff if you have a look.

Surprised main dealers don't have them in stock as they are a known problem.

Did you order the T piece hose on it's own or the hose and thermostat as well?

[oli]

I've gone for the thermostat and T piece housing. I might replace the short bottom hose as well because it's gone a bit crusty.

It's a good little how to guide.

Oli

[oli]

Thanks for the help Nobster. That thread was the same one I'd been looking at for the ECM.

All done and the only tricky bit was a blo*dy hose clip even my remote clamp wouldn't fit onto the space was so limited.

The whole thing came as one unit, including the actual thermostat, housing, T piece, hoses and even clamps actually very reasonable for a genuine JLR part.
It seems our local dealership doesn't have the usual bare breeze block parts dept, so you have to go into the showroom and speak to the sales people, who seem more glossy and polished than their cars. I could have probably recouped the cost of the part with the number of coffees I was offered whilst waiting. I felt like a bit of an oik, cluttering up their show room.

Oli

[Noberator]

Sept 30, 2014 22:57:24 GMT 1 oli said:

Thanks for the help Nobster. That thread was the same one I'd been looking at for the ECM.

All done and the only tricky bit was a blo*dy hose clip even my remote clamp wouldn't fit onto the space was so limited.

The whole thing came as one unit, including the actual thermostat, housing, T piece, hoses and even clamps actually very reasonable for a genuine JLR part.
It seems our local dealership doesn't have the usual bare breeze block parts dept, so you have to go into the showroom and speak to the sales people, who seem more glossy and polished than their cars. I could have probably recouped the cost of the part with the number of coffees I was offered whilst waiting. I felt like a bit of an oik, cluttering up their show room.

Oli

Your very welcome Oli.

Did you replace the short bottom hose as well?

Reasonable for JLR parts £60 ish.


Sorry can't help myself I'm a nosey old goat.

[oli]

66 quid, which I didn't think was too awful considering it came with all the bits attached I also expected them to have it in stock, so was happy to pay a bit extra for that.

Lots of the non-genuine bits seemed to be broken down into individual bits. It was just the rubber seal that was gone but I obviously didn't know that until I'd ordered a new one.

Didn't get a new bottom hose in the end because I forgot, but the old one cleaned up ok.

I was more shocked at £50 for some water hose pliers...

Oli

[Noberator]

Oct 1, 2014 16:19:57 GMT 1 oli said:

66 quid, which I didn't think was too awful considering it came with all the bits attached I also expected them to have it in stock, so was happy to pay a bit extra for that.

Lots of the non-genuine bits seemed to be broken down into individual bits. It was just the rubber seal that was gone but I obviously didn't know that until I'd ordered a new one.

Didn't get a new bottom hose in the end because I forgot, but the old one cleaned up ok.

I was more shocked at

£50 for some water hose pliers...

Oli

£50

[oli]

Indeed, though they are quite good actually.

Oli